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May 26, 2013 11:57:27 GMT
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Wheels would originally been Foam Grey or Possibly dove grey , Foam grey its a very pale grey and was used on most rootes wheels up until 1976 , In your case they might have been the same colour as the car in which case tell me the paint code and il tell you what colour it is. White would be too stark IMHO. Thanks, think I might hold out for the correct colour, everything else is standard on the car, and I like it as it is. I'll take a look for a colour code when I'm back  Thanks again Remmoc |
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May 28, 2013 18:19:29 GMT
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Its raining, but thought I'd take a look anyway (garage front open)
I managed to get the dynamo to jump a little once...
but just got sparks on it the other times i tried...
Dads managed to leave the multimeter in the boot of his car and has now gone on holiday, so I'm afraid i have no readings either. I did notice that the ignition light still didnt go out, which worrys me as I think it should if the battery was charging?
On a slightly better note insurance is on from today so should appear on the database when I head to DVLA.
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remmoc
Part of things
Posts: 927
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May 28, 2013 18:21:24 GMT
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Is your car 6 or 12 volt ?
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May 28, 2013 18:25:57 GMT
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Is your car 6 or 12 volt ? 12v |
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remmoc
Part of things
Posts: 927
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May 28, 2013 18:27:57 GMT
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Its possible your dynamo is a 6V one , whats the numbers stamped on it , i might be able to ID it
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May 28, 2013 18:45:01 GMT
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Thanks, just taken a look and reads:
D2258F 58
C39RV2LO 12V
-----------------
Some of these were a little unclear but I think that is what it shows
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remmoc
Part of things
Posts: 927
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May 28, 2013 19:03:03 GMT
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Standard C39 Dynamo then , the 58 is manufacture date so it would probably be the original one , it is 12V so quite why your getting 6V is a mystery.
Try this for checking the dynamo
1. Remove the wires, then connect a voltmeter between the D terminal (big one) and earth. Run engine at 1500 rpm, you should get a reading of 2 - 3 volts. Any more or any less you have a problem.
2. Next connect an ammeter between the D and F terminals and run the engine until the voltmeter shows 12 volts. The ammeter should read no more than 2 amps.
3. Refit the wires and remove the D and F wires from the control box. Repeat 1 & 2 to test the wiring.
If the wiring tests out ok then the fault is with the control box.
Also try cleaning the contacts in the control box with v fine wet and dry.
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May 28, 2013 19:12:45 GMT
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Standard C39 Dynamo then , the 58 is manufacture date so it would probably be the original one , it is 12V so quite why your getting 6V is a mystery. Try this for checking the dynamo 1. Remove the wires, then connect a voltmeter between the D terminal (big one) and earth. Run engine at 1500 rpm, you should get a reading of 2 - 3 volts. Any more or any less you have a problem. 2. Next connect an ammeter between the D and F terminals and run the engine until the voltmeter shows 12 volts. The ammeter should read no more than 2 amps. 3. Refit the wires and remove the D and F wires from the control box. Repeat 1 & 2 to test the wiring. If the wiring tests out ok then the fault is with the control box. Also try cleaning the contacts in the control box with v fine wet and dry. Thanks, will give this a go tomorrow (unfortunately getting dark and no lights installed) I should be able to borrow works multimeter to give it a go. I did spot the contacts looked pretty groggy so might try that, I'll try the above first. Thanks nice to have such friendly knowledgeable people on here. |
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Last Edit: May 28, 2013 19:13:15 GMT by mattmk1
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May 29, 2013 20:10:16 GMT
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Standard C39 Dynamo then , the 58 is manufacture date so it would probably be the original one , it is 12V so quite why your getting 6V is a mystery. Try this for checking the dynamo 1. Remove the wires, then connect a voltmeter between the D terminal (big one) and earth. Run engine at 1500 rpm, you should get a reading of 2 - 3 volts. Any more or any less you have a problem. 2. Next connect an ammeter between the D and F terminals and run the engine until the voltmeter shows 12 volts. The ammeter should read no more than 2 amps. 3. Refit the wires and remove the D and F wires from the control box. Repeat 1 & 2 to test the wiring. If the wiring tests out ok then the fault is with the control box. Also try cleaning the contacts in the control box with v fine wet and dry. Thanks, will give this a go tomorrow (unfortunately getting dark and no lights installed) I should be able to borrow works multimeter to give it a go. I did spot the contacts looked pretty groggy so might try that, I'll try the above first. Thanks nice to have such friendly knowledgeable people on here. Going to admit that I have never used a multimeter, but following the instructions seemed to make sense - please feel free to correct me. Connected wires seem okay, getting same numbers within .05v from either attached wires or not. Voltmeter between D and Neg. - 10.8v Voltmeter between D and F - 11.84v No reading on the amps I'm afraid, either I can't use a multimeter or its too much for it to handle... Battery with car off - 12.8v Battery with car on - 12.6v The lights and indicators work well together, but still seem to struggle when on together (indicators slow extremely and almost stop) Ignition light stayed on during all changes, and when revved dimmed slightly. No access to the wet and dry (locked away...) today but should have access later this week early next. Doesn't make much sense to me, and apologies if it doesn't add up or isnt helpful, I'll get dad to take the same measurements over the weekend. Time for a pizza I think... Thanks again, Matt |
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May 30, 2013 19:04:41 GMT
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Bingo, sorted this now thanks to Remmoc, so we checked today, this time with another pair of hands on the multimeter outputs are correct as stated, I didnt think to try the wet and dry between the contacts on the regulator, so once we had done this we had movement, the ignition light went off, and we could see it doing its work, its still getting jammed every now and then and need to adjust it a little just to ensure correct gap ect.
We still have the issue with the lights and indicators, both work individually but when lights are on the indicators don't work. Were going to check the wiring of the indicators as they were removed and reinstalled.
Fingers crossed we get it sorted. I also received a retro fog light today from someone on this forum, will get it wired up and get some photos later.
Feeling alot happier about this now, and with less than a week until my DVLA visit, I think we can solve these issues.
Thanks again to Remmoc for the instructions on polarizing the dynamo and the voltage outputs from the dynamo, very helpful.
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May 30, 2013 20:12:15 GMT
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A new accessory today with pics as promised:   Will need to make up a bracket for this at some point but need to sort the more important things first. |
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remmoc
Part of things
Posts: 927
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May 30, 2013 20:56:00 GMT
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Your most welcome , only too happy i could help.
If you have lights or indicators but not both then to my mind one is shutting the other down which might point to a supply issue to one or the other , almost acting like a changeover relay would.
Id check the supply or live feed to both.
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May 31, 2013 18:29:12 GMT
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Your most welcome , only too happy I could help. If you have lights or indicators but not both then to my mind one is shutting the other down which might point to a supply issue to one or the other , almost acting like a changeover relay would. Id check the supply or live feed to both. Every time I've had this problem on cars of this era, it turned out to be a dodgy earth somewhere. Ah the joys of Lucas electrics! |
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1953 Minor (Long term project)
PT Cruiser
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Looks like I will have an even of electrical fault finding, not a favourite game of mine, but one that needs to be done, shouldn't be too bad as there is little wiring. Learning alot from this car |
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To pass on advice I've been given repeatedly: Check that there isn't a problem with the earth. There's always a problem with the earth.
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To pass on advice I've been given repeatedly: Check that there isn't a problem with the earth. There's always a problem with the earth. I like this stumbled across this the other day and I don't think I've posted in, but its worth a watch - Charming indeed Matt |
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This time tomorrow I should be "cruising" around the depths of Somerset, as long as dvla agree and I get the exhaust clamped better |
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remmoc
Part of things
Posts: 927
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Great news , il keep an eye out in case your ever in Yeovil
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To pass on advice I've been given repeatedly: Check that there isn't a problem with the earth. There's always a problem with the earth. Excellent advice, I have now found that there is a problem with the earth... although now sorted. Front indicators should earth through the grill, but for some reason it wasn't, so adding wires to an excellent earth and BINGO (i like using that word at the moment) it works Wahooooooo, have a plastic wallet with all the documents in, and an alarm set for early tomorrow, first DVLA office visit Matt |
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Good luck! Be great to have this back out and about on the roads.
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