1989 Citroen 2CV, rolling restoration.. In theory.

Frenching on a frenchy, seems appropriate! Loving the attention to detail

Micro update, just spent another Sunday getting sparks in my hair and rust in my boots, and we're 100% RUST FREE!!!

Last bit of rot was the Bonnet hinge/scuttle area. Seeing as this is an area most 2CV owners will need to fix at some point, I took detailed pics, hopefully will be of use to someone.

Started off with this


The first step was to drill out the spot welds on the lower lip


And remove the tabs at the ends, first by drilling out the spot welds


And then grinding the tab away, as it's brazed.


I bought the basic hinge repair section from ECAS, www.ecas2cvparts.co.uk/repair-panel-bonnet-hinge-area-below-vent-flap-click-more-details-p-840.html
At £30 it's pretty good I reckon, much thicker gauge metal then standard Citroen and Galvanised, so it'll last for a few years.


I started by sitting it on the scuttle with the old hinge removed to mark the length


At this point I noticed the repair panel was higher than I wanted, so I cut it down silghtly to about 5mm down from the curve of the flap aperture


I then cut out the old panel, leaving a section at the top to be cut out later, this is so the repair panel can sit in the correct position before accurately marking the top for cutting.


I was glad to find out the inner scuttle was very sound. However the lip at the top of the bulkhead wasn't, so I chopped that bit out, and let in new metal.




I then lay the repair panel in place, marked, and cut the remaining metal out.


I also brushed thick hammerite inside the scuttle to keep it good for a while, and applied zinc primer to the underside of the new panel.


I then clamped the panel in place for welding. At this point I noticed that the curve of the area of above the hinge was too round, so I flattened it a bit in my folder. I could have fitted it as was, but it would have needed a bit more filler than I would have liked. I ground the galvanised coating off the edges of the new panel, as the fumes are bad for your elf, and it doesn't weld too well.


I started welding the panel in with tacks at intervals to keep the panel cool and avoid warpage, plug welding the bottom lip.


Carried on until it was welded solidly around.


And dressed with a flap wheel and 80 grit on the sander.


Followed by a skim of filler on any high or low sections, then a quick coat of primer to protect it from the elephants.




I also managed to get the drip rail completed on one side, I bought these sections from ECAS, www.ecas2cvparts.co.uk/gutter-drip-channel-repair-section-400mm-long-p-367.html they were much shorter than I expected, so I used them both on the one side.


Seeing as the rot was quite high up, I had to bend one of the sections, I think ECAS/SPOG assume that people will only be replacing the straight bit..



Before


And after



I shall order more for the other side, and once the N/S rail is done, that's all the welding on the body tub COMPLETE. Excitement all round.

Until next time folks..

Still loving this,
Brilliant work,
:-)

Mint welding! What setup do you use?

Cheers guys, I use a Murex Tradesmig. £300 on ebay, doesn't look anything special but it works well. Saying that, those welds don't look too great, just cos 2CV's are made of ACTUAL foil so you have to take it easy on the heat.

Next step after fitting new drip rail on the N/S is filler and prep on the body tub and panels, then prime and paint, then it'll go into storage whilst I build up the chassis.

Yo Rebel, you’ve got ‘Deux Chevaux’ spelt wrong in your sig.

Absolutely lovely work there PBP, inspiring stuff man.

yeahhhhh noticed that, cba to sort it..

I really don't like 2CVs but I read every update in this thread. Great work, love those recessed lights in the wing.

UPDATE

So I got hold of a bonnet from a friend on the 2CVfriends,


Makes the car look a bit like a car again! It also fitted on the hinge I had fitted, which was a bonus.

I first removed the sound deadening which was oily, heavy and generally a bit pointless.



Then I went about repairing the small areas of rust which were present. Firstly a new front edge was made and welded in, (no "before" pictures of this)



And then I cleaned up the inner hinge area which was a bit crusty.


Hinge cut and split from inner section


Inner cut out and replaced, with hinge repaired




Inside primed


Finished the drip rail on the N/S


Figured out and made a locking mechanism for the suicide door catches

Locked


Unlocked


Designed to match the release lever.


I then made and welded tabs on the B post side of the front doors, for attaching a check strap, as per the rear doors on a standard car.


Being a tight curse word, I decided to try and make 50's style bumpers.

Got this,


And shortened, narrowed and generally hacked it about, until it looked like this.


It looks a bit like an early example, but I'm not happy with it so if anyone wants it, let me know, will need brackets and over riders, some Neanderthal threw away the over riders :evil:

I then cleaned glue and foam and general gunk from the bulkhead areas, and inner side panel.





And prepped the interior metalwork for primer.


Followed by the outside.



I then flipped the shell, and etch primed the underside.


Followed by textured stonechip paint on the inner wings, and floors.





Then I primed the entire underside in a decent high build 2k primer.



I then gathered all the exterior panels together


Hung them up


And banged on more 2K HB primer.