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Sept 7, 2018 19:34:14 GMT
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5k will be about right, I used a 4.7K in my old VW which was fine. 470 ohm is driving the LED as bright as possible, but for a telltale that's viewed at night you need much less current. 10k would also work but it might be a bit dim, just work with what you've got. Ideally use a diffused LED as it'll glare less.
A Mondeo dashboard uses a clear LED and a 2.2k resistor, but there's the diffusing legend on top.
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Easy but crude: Remove the O ring and fit a short length of hose with a jubilee clip, down to an adapter. Less crude: Drill and tap the hole to a suitable thread, and fit a hose barb with some PTFE tape or loctite thread sealer.
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Jan 25, 2018 22:51:04 GMT
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Nice car Dan, but it's a shame the other end of your business just set a debt recovery team on me for admin fees after cancelling a policy. They have several valid cards and bank details on file. To top it off, they refused to waive the debt recovery fee, but were able to take the £145 payment without having to take any details......
A loyal customer for over a decade lost for the sake of a "sorry about that". I've probably given you £10k+ in premiums and never even claimed for a bloody windscreen chip! I'd cancel the remaining two policies immediately but I don't want to end up spending a mortgage deposit on the admin fees! It's a shame really because I've stuck up for your company a few times.
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Last Edit: Jan 25, 2018 22:51:25 GMT by cobblers
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Dec 26, 2017 14:22:35 GMT
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+1 on what phil said, but I must add that while a properly done crimp is better than a solder joint, even a fairly mediocre solder joint is streets ahead of anything you could muster with preinsulated crimp terminals.
That said about 20% of my work comes from repairing cracked solder joints on automotive PCBs. Another 5% is repairing the above press-fit type PCBs by soldering them.. They don't come loose, but the square peg in a round hole leaves nice pockets for corrosion to form if there's any moisture about.
I've never had a lot of luck with those solder splices - We only used cheapie durite ones but I'd rather just manually solder and cover with adhesive lined heatshrink.
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Dec 23, 2017 19:07:44 GMT
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BMW space savers for mega narrowness?
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Dec 19, 2017 18:21:08 GMT
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I think someone in the trade might be able to HPI a chassis number and bring up the plate.
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Dec 18, 2017 20:13:07 GMT
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You'll have better luck with H7s than people do with H4s, but there's so many variables it's impossible to predict.
Have you seen the chinese drop-in projector units? You fit them inside your existing housing. They're supposedly fairly good
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Dec 14, 2017 22:10:12 GMT
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You used to be able to get the steelies from Peugeot new, but they were handled like any other steel wheel so always arrived damaged. They were used as spares on the phase 2 Saxo VTR/VTS, so might still be available new - but they came painted black.
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Dec 13, 2017 20:48:41 GMT
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That's lovely! I'd probably be tempted to keep those wheels TBH, at least you're not constantly chasing rust round steelies!
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Dec 12, 2017 19:35:54 GMT
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I really miss my old Rallye, I'd fuppin love another but they're really hard to get hold of now and about 3x the price since I sold mine ten years ago. Is this still a 1.3? They sound fantastic! Mine ended up with a valver in after the 2nd rallye engine started knocking - Faster, but just not the same...
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Nov 13, 2017 21:55:26 GMT
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He deals with T25 stuff mainly, Obviously an AAZ is a fairly common swap though so he might be interested. He's a nice bloke, give him a bell.
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Nov 13, 2017 12:39:23 GMT
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Give Mick at NWVW a ring, he usually has something. www.nwvw.co.uk/07968 367046
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I've never heard anyone speak badly of a helicoil before, they're fine - I've used loads of em. The only problem is if it's a thread that's used regularly, sometimes the insert can try and come out with the fastener which is annoying.
No good if you break through into a waterway though as they'll never seal.
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Sept 21, 2017 20:08:35 GMT
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Yup, I've had some really curse word fuel hose like this - It seems to go porous from the inside out and delaminates, so that only the 1mm thick outer layer is keeping it sealed. Had it on my T25 and a couple of mates had the same. Mine was EFI pressure, theirs were just carbed VW splitties. It lasted 3 months on the splitties, and about a year on mine.
I think my hose came off ebay but they got it from GSF/ECP or something.
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Last Edit: Sept 21, 2017 20:09:45 GMT by cobblers
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Sept 12, 2017 11:03:52 GMT
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You're on about putting a tuned 1.8t in a Lupo and mithering about a couple of hundred quid road tax? That's got to be pretty much the least of your worries! Ignoring the cost of actually buying and fitting it, just your extra petrol costs over about 2000 miles will dwarf the road tax difference!
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Yeah that 0.3mm per bolt is more than taken up with slop in the threads. Ideally you'd always want to run hubcentric where possible though, but only to make the wheels go on easier - If it's going to cost loads more then I wouldn't worry too much.
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Aug 27, 2017 17:33:33 GMT
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Have you got it firing the right amount of times? Ie set for wasted spark rather than single coil with a dizzy.
When I megasquirted my 106 with watsed spark I cocked the settings up and it fired both coils at the same time, and that sounded like a 2 stroke. It actually drove though,.
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Jun 22, 2017 21:25:21 GMT
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I've driven cars with the front ARB removed/ missing drop links and they feel like this. Maybe the front ARB has snapped? it's a bit far fetched but your description is exactly what I felt.
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May 22, 2017 18:58:27 GMT
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After looking at how a lot of the chargers for these are made I would be very hesitant about leaving them plugged in unattended, particularly the Lithium ones.
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