gess
Part of things
Posts: 216
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Sept 21, 2016 4:50:05 GMT
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Finally the car i MOTed after the rebuild, what a milestone! Congratulations on your legal ride! Did you make your own one-day registration signs? In Norway we use self adhesive signs, red with black writing. They include the date they are valid. These can be purchased for use up to three days. Really hope you get your fueling sorted so you can use your ride before winter is coming :-)
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gess
Part of things
Posts: 216
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Sept 6, 2016 12:38:11 GMT
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I must say I am happy that you seem to get the car ready for MOT and will be able to use this great machine. But I am also sad that the journey soon will come to an end. I have followed this thread for a while and it has been very interesting to see how the car has transformed into this retro/modern car. I really hope you will enjoy driving your car as much as I have enjoyed reading about how it has come to be!
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gess
Part of things
Posts: 216
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Aug 23, 2016 18:32:25 GMT
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Good progress, this is going in the right direction! On my cars I have always had the windscreen washer on a button next to the heated rear window button. Usually, the washer motor starts after the wipers have wiped half of the screen, so it is not a flawless system, but it is the original system for my cars. The floor mounted button dissapeared in 74 in Norway I think.
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gess
Part of things
Posts: 216
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Nice to see some pictures of the interior again. Those seats really look at home in there. I think you have done a great job to incorporate the rear sets, it is as if they were ment for this car! You have really made your own Granada, as you wanted it to be, with the interior, mirrors and engine of your choice. That's gotta give some street cred! I believe you could have saved yourself some trouble with an easier engine swap, the 2.9 12V or the 2.9 BOA engine, but your engine does look better! Cleaning up the engine bay can be done at a later time. The important thing is to get the car ready to be used, and enjoy it during this summer.
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gess
Part of things
Posts: 216
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Jun 24, 2016 12:44:16 GMT
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Wouldn't it have been possible to put some of the cables between the seats? In my car the power for the amplifier runs on the passenger side, audio cables to the amplifier on the transmission tunnel and I used to have some audio cables running along the drivers side sill. I also found it almost impossible to get the sill trims back in place with all the cables tucked in. It is a bit easier when the large RCA cable for the amplifier is located between the seats.
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gess
Part of things
Posts: 216
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Jun 22, 2016 10:36:35 GMT
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Good to see that there is some progress and mojo boosting! Mk3 Mondeo from 2001 to 2007 has also got a remote fuel flap opening system. A simple lever connected to a wire running from the left side of the drivers seat to the fuel flap. Maybe you could source one, and keep it Ford :-) I once had a Daewoo Nexia with an electric fuel flap opener, a small button on the dash and an electric solenoid in the boot. A more modern touch, and it was equipped with an emergency relaease wire in the boot. The Mondeo didn't have one of those :-(
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gess
Part of things
Posts: 216
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Jun 12, 2016 18:19:12 GMT
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A new pair of eyes (and feet) can often be helpful. One importent thing to remember is that your daily drive is a fairly new car with good brakes. The fact that the Granada pedal feels different may simply be just that. It is different, old fashioned and less refined. If the pedal doesn't drop to the floor when applying a heavy pressure to the pedal, you don't have any leakages at least. I do believe that the brakes on my Granada needs the pedal to be pushed further than on my Hyundai to work. But that is just a difference between the crs, old and new. On my Granadas, I have noticed that the enginges loose revs if the pedal is depresses several times in a quick repeated pattern. I wonder if I was able to get the revs down to near stall by just applying the brakes repeatedly. It messes with the manifold pressure, so I wouldn't worry too much unless you stall the car when driving and breaking. Will be interresting to see the MOT result,especially the brake test :-)
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gess
Part of things
Posts: 216
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Here is a fancy bleed nipple for you :-) www.stahlbus.com/products/en/bleeding-system/index.phpYou have written a bit about the brake pedal being switched from manual to auto pedal. The auto pedal is from a Granada isn't it? In my experience they have identical connection points and method, and the only difference is the part where you put your foot, it is larger on the auto pedal. I have changed from auto to manual transmission on a Granada, and we just changed brake pedal and installed a clutch pedal onto the existing pedal assembly in the car. No problems whatsoever.
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gess
Part of things
Posts: 216
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The Mk1 Granadas had the wheel cylinders at the bottom, as it is on your car. This was altered on later models, I think in 78 with the introduction of the Mk2. It is not just a matter of turning the back plates upside down as the hole pattern for the bolts is different from top to bottom. You will have to source Mk2 back plates. Another difference is the handbrake cable, it is placed on top of the rear beams on the Mk2 not along the edge as it is on your car. It is possible to rebuild, but it takes a bit of engineering.
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gess
Part of things
Posts: 216
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I see you have gotten a lot of helpful tips and hints here. Hopefully you will get the brakes fixed now. I have a question, do you bleed the brakes with the handbrake on or off? I assume you have it off, as this affects the bleeding. Another trick I use to do when bleeding is to first bleed the system, then pump the pedal hard five-six times, and keep pressing it hard, and open the bleed nipple, often this expells the last bubbbles of air. this is of course a two man job
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gess
Part of things
Posts: 216
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Good to see that there is a bit of progress, and that you haven't given up. Brakes didn't use to be a problem for me in the past, but as I have written earlier I have had a lot of similar problems as you have, on my own car. The pedal was soft, and no matter how much i bled the system I still couldn't get that good pedal feeling. It seems that maybe I have fixed this problem by bleeding the old fashion way. One person pressing the pedal, and one person opening and closing the bleed nipple. I took my daughter out into the garage and she helped med with the bleeding. I have bled the system several times alone using a hose connected to the bleed nipple with a one way valve, and also using a brake bleeder coupled to a compressor to draw the fluid out. Still, when I had help bleeding the system, a lot of air came out, tiny bubbles, but still bubbles. The pedal felt better so I am hoping this cured my brake problem.
But back to your car. Bleeding old brakes has always been a risky business. When you press the pedal all the way to the floor you risk ruining the delicate seals on the piston, and leaving the MC ruined, I have been there a couple of times. Since your MC is brand new this shouldn't be a problem, and I would guess that bleeding the old fashion way would expel all air trapped in the system. My experience is that air is getting bask into the system along the threads on the bleed nipple when using brake bleeding tools. I am really hoping you get the brakes i order, they are kind of crucial.
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gess
Part of things
Posts: 216
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I am pretty sure that is just what I did, reused an old bleed nipple from a caliper. I think that the Granada uses M10 bleed nipples both on the calipers and brake cylinders. The size on the hex-head may differ from 9 to 11mm, but the threads are M10x1. I will try to remember to check this when I get home from work today.
Changing to a larger bore MC will displace more fluid, and give quicker brake response. I was very happy with my brake upgrade. I don't know if you have seen the Zzz Zzz Granada, it has been posted on several forums. He converted a Mk2 into a YB Cosworth powered beast with large Porsche brakes. He upgraded to the largest MC for Granada, and was very pleased with the brake reponse. Now that car has been converted to a 1700Hp monster, and I guess he has changed the MC as well.
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gess
Part of things
Posts: 216
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I guess it was one of the others who said that he had a nipple for me then. No problem. It's great that the tool to flare is available. The required bleed nipple is larger than the regular ford ones. Also it's a new addition to the system so there is no old one to reuse. This because I'm using it to block the extra port of the MC with the capability of bleeding it so no air is left there. I'll ask theguys via app tonight about the nipple or a source for them. What kind of MC have you bought? Is it for a Granada Mk2, or some other car? I am asking since you need a larger bleed nipple. I used regular M10 on my conversion to Mk2 MC.
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gess
Part of things
Posts: 216
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I have been tinkering with my brake problems all alone in the garage, and that is very unefficient. In the old days I always had some friends helping me with the brake bleeding. Pedal in, open nipple, close nipple, pedal out, and repeat until no air could be seen or heard. Now I am alone and have tried using several methods. Bleedhose with no return valve bleeding into a bottle partly filled with fluid didn't work as the system would draw air in through the threads on the nipple. Vacuum bleeder hooked up to the compressor didn't do it either.
I tried to isolate the problem by removing the brake pipes from the MC and blind it off using bleed nipples, to chech if it was leaking inside, but the test was inconclusive.
But I have moved on from brake problems and reinstalled the steering rack, much thanks to your thread on this awsome Coupé. It has given me my mojo back :-) Hopefully you will get back on track, and will be able to spend some quality time behind the wheel this summer!
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gess
Part of things
Posts: 216
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Apr 22, 2016 10:24:16 GMT
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I had a MC from a 2.8 fittet to one of my Granadas, a 2.6 converted to 2.8i. It worked very well. I simply put a bleed nipple in one of the outlets and put a dust cap on top of that. When filling brake fluid I opened the nipple and let some fluid run through it before I closed it. No problems with trapped air. One ting to remember is that the three port Mk2 MC uses different size fittings for the front brakes than the two outlet Mk1 MC. I think Mk1 uses M10 for rear brakes and M12 for front whilst Mk2 uses M10 for all tree. I tried to convert my current car with a newer MC, but the one I got hold of was old and didn't work. And then my problems started...
The reason why I changed the MC on my old car was a brake problem which I thought was the MC leaking. The pedal could very slowly be pushed all the way to the floor when applied for a long time. I checked everywhere for leakages and found nothing. One day I discovered a small drop of brakefluid on the inside of the left front wheel. I dismantled the caliper and found that the gasket O-ring between the two halves of the caliper had started to leak. I changed the O-ring and the problem was solved. And with the larger bore MC, 2.8i calipers and original rear drums, the brakes were pretty good. I needed less travel on the pedal to lock the front wheels, and the rear brakes would also brake harder. To maintain the original brake balance between front and back, I should have changed the rear brake cylinders, but I never got around to do it.
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gess
Part of things
Posts: 216
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I have been following your thread for the last half a year and must say I am impressed. Really a cool, quality build! I own a Mk1 Granada 2.6 GL, and have previously own several Granadas. My current car is a long time project with little and none progress, mainly due to a similar problem as you are facing, soft brake pedal. Earlier I never had problems with brake bleading, I always got the pedal as it should, no leakages, short pedal travel. But now it is a different story. I also have swapped to the larger 2.8 / 2.8i calipers. They use the same piston as the smaller calipers, so there should not be any difference in pedal travel due to changing calipers. On the rear, I have used the same size brake cylinders as original. They come in a variety of piston diameters, but since I am using the original MC i stuck with the original size. The MC has got new seals, and as far as I can tell there are no leakages. There is a hole on the bottom of the MC, close to the brake booster, where any fluid passing by the seals can leak out, but it is as dry as a desert. I have bled my system using a brake bleader connected to the bleed nipples, I have bled them using the pedal, but still the brakes are not as they should. Some weeks ago I spotted some fluid on the inside of one of the rims, and found that the right brake hose had large cracks in the outer rubber and was leaking slightly. Not a mayor leakage, but maybe enough to make the pedal go further than it should. The hose in mention is only a year old and has actually never been used on the road, so the quality cannot have been very good. I am hoping that I will get around to testing the brakes again shortly to see if the new hose I fitted will have any impact on the pedal feel.
As you can see, you are not alone in struggling with strange brake problems.
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