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May 24, 2021 19:19:13 GMT
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As I may have to take the engine out to be able to change the cam belt and waterpump. I thought this might be a good time to try and address the engine vibration I get at about 1800 rpm.
The engine mounts I have are standard Triumph Stag ones and some brackets to make it fit onto the Lexus V8. These were brand-new when fitted about five years ago but these might be the issue. Even though the car has only probably done 2000 miles on that time.
Some are hard race ones which transmit most of the vibrations to the car. Apparently this is good for power and gives a better gear chance but at the expense of even more vibration. So I’m looking for a good aftermarket engine mount that could cope well with my set up and hopefully get rid of that annoying vibration.
I was just wondering what everyone else is using, especially with the 1uz, in regards to engine mounts.
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Last Edit: May 24, 2021 19:20:29 GMT by Bullstarz
“It Doesn’t Feel Pity, Or Remorse, Or Fear, And It Absolutely Will Not Stop, Ever, Until You Are Dead!”
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Apr 29, 2021 20:45:44 GMT
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Apparently they have been delivered and I’ve signed for them, turns out next door did. So its here, just need some time to fit them and Lady Luck on her most benevolent day and all will go well.
Hydraulic hand brake hasn’t arrived yet, I’ve decided to try one to help pulling away.
So all being well with about 6 or 60 hours I’ll be back where I was 3 years ago.
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“It Doesn’t Feel Pity, Or Remorse, Or Fear, And It Absolutely Will Not Stop, Ever, Until You Are Dead!”
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Apr 28, 2021 20:55:24 GMT
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I ordered the cam belt kit and waterpump from www.buycarparts.co.uk/. as it had co.uk I thought that would be an English company or at least British. As we do allow the Welsh, Scottish and sometimes the Irish, to be called British if there any good. But it turns out that this company is in Germany. I’ve got nothing against them Germans, no more than anybody else. But believing it was an English company I thought the parts would arrive in a couple of days, it been a week now. Has anybody else used this company. Also now we are out of the EU, thank fcuk, will I now be charged import duty from anything from Europe.
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Last Edit: Apr 28, 2021 20:56:25 GMT by Bullstarz
“It Doesn’t Feel Pity, Or Remorse, Or Fear, And It Absolutely Will Not Stop, Ever, Until You Are Dead!”
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Apr 26, 2021 20:21:33 GMT
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Electric power steering pump works at a really high pressure, mine works at over 1000 psi. The fluid is important, not so much it’s viscosity but what it’s made off. Use the wrong stuff and it will eat the seals of one of them. You’ll have to look and see which one won’t damage the other or the rebuilds will be very regular.
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“It Doesn’t Feel Pity, Or Remorse, Or Fear, And It Absolutely Will Not Stop, Ever, Until You Are Dead!”
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Apr 23, 2021 19:31:17 GMT
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I’ve gone ahead and ordered a cam belt kit along with water pump and tensioner. Found that most of the kits do not come with a tensioner. The reason for ordering another water pump is in case the one I have already had, which I’ve now removed the impeller, doesnt work. I first tried to remove the impeller with a 3 legged puller but all that did was break the impeller itself. so then I tried to leaver it off, again just cause it to snap. So I ended up drilling a number of holes as close I could get to the spindle and this just allowed what was left of the impeller to fall off. There was a little bit of damage to the water pump, where the I tried to leaver it off, but I made sure that the area that would’ve got damaged and did, wasn’t anywhere near where the gasket has to go. so hopefully it will work. wheni have enough time I’ll start taking part off until I’m able to change the cam belt. Hopefully I won’t have to remove the engine.
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“It Doesn’t Feel Pity, Or Remorse, Or Fear, And It Absolutely Will Not Stop, Ever, Until You Are Dead!”
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Apr 21, 2021 16:10:35 GMT
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Had a slight issue with my engine yesterday. The engine itself is turbocharged and dry slumped. When I started it it sounded like one of the idlers or alternator is seized, as it was squealing like a scalded pig. Far worse than just a belt slipping, but something was slipping, it was definitely not a metallic noise.
Obviously l switch the engine off straight away, assumed it was one of the idlers. Tried the engine again to locate the noise, it was coming somewhere from the front, but I couldn’t locate it. Checked all the idlers which seemed to be free.
marked the alternator, idlers and belts with chalk, put the car in gear and pushed it forward and everything seem to move okay. All moved freely with the belt.
Cautiously I tried the engine again but the noise had gone. Now the only thing I thought it could be was the idler that drives the water pump from the cam belt had seized.
Now I do have an electronic water-pump, while the car was ticking over I did notice that a couple of the temperature gauges were higher than normal. where as two of them were a lot lower. The car got up to temperature, didn’t overheat but this also made me think that somehow the internal car water pump isn’t spinning.
If the impeller is not turning, will the idler still be working to keep the cam belt in tension. I am in the process of ordering a new cam belt kit, just to be on the safe side. But to change the cam belt I think the engine has got to come out, and all the manifolds, turbo, pumps, coolers and pipes taken off to get to it. Which isn’t going to be the normal 4hr job of replacing the belt.
Has anyone had this happen and is it a clear sign the cam belt is a bout to fail. With all that impending doom
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Last Edit: Apr 21, 2021 16:12:03 GMT by Bullstarz
“It Doesn’t Feel Pity, Or Remorse, Or Fear, And It Absolutely Will Not Stop, Ever, Until You Are Dead!”
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With my set up, at the moment with the standard Lexus alternator, I have to use a tensioner idler as there is not enough room for any adjustment for the alternator, as its close to the chassis. The reason for changing mine, is that I do have a few extra electronics, electric hydraulic power steering pump, two air compressors, electric water pump, a few amps plus all the usual stuff to run. The car doesn’t get used a lot and it is always on a battery conditioner/trickle charger when not in use. there’s alway that thought when everything is on that there might not be enough power to go around, I don’t want to overload the alternator, which could cause more issues. It’s hard enough sorting out the problems that I know about.
Even when the car has been used and it’s gone back in the garage for a sleep, with the battery conditioner on, it does take a while for the conditioner to show the battery is fully charged. It is a good, new, big, Yuasa battery and this is one of reasons that I thought the alternator might not be up to the job. As you would’ve assumed that after a couple of hours of driving the battery should be toppers, and wouldn’t need any additional charging.
anyway, isn’t more better.
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“It Doesn’t Feel Pity, Or Remorse, Or Fear, And It Absolutely Will Not Stop, Ever, Until You Are Dead!”
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Be good to see the finished alternator as I’ve got 180 amp BMW one, very similar to yours, that’s been sat in a box for a couple of years. Something that I never got round to fitting as he was low priority, and there is always a shed load of other things that needed doing. As my car is now front end up in the air, with the front part off, for some much needed long over due maintenance, might be a good time to fit it, or at least try to make it fit.
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“It Doesn’t Feel Pity, Or Remorse, Or Fear, And It Absolutely Will Not Stop, Ever, Until You Are Dead!”
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Today I’ve been mostly doing the brakes. New front pads then a good flush and bleed. Also replaced the brake bias adjuster. Took a while to get completely no bubbles, hope that will sort out the shtie brakes.
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Last Edit: Apr 6, 2021 17:40:11 GMT by Bullstarz
“It Doesn’t Feel Pity, Or Remorse, Or Fear, And It Absolutely Will Not Stop, Ever, Until You Are Dead!”
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Great, looks like I was thinking along the right lines. I must admit I did edit my numbers, as when I was out walking the dogs I realised I didn’t take into account π r², and just took the bore size as the area.it changed one of the areas from 7 to 15% and the other from 20 to 44%.
the idea may work but to actually swap out the Master cylinder is not so. which is means me hanging upside down in the floor well of the car. Which isn’t that easiest to get into, with the bucket seat and roll cage and being over 50.
Main problem is whether the biting point will be too far down to be usable. I think I may just have to learn how to use the clutch. I know from cold there is that little bit of slip but as it gets warmer it is like a switch, on or off. So it probably gonna make f-all difference.
Turns out the heater blower and the loss of brake fluid were are connected. Now this is quite unbelievable, and something you wouldn’t even consider could be connected. You do have to realise this is a 1972 Triumph stag. And it had multiple owners who have done their own little bits, before loads of other stuff that I’ve done.
Okay, one of the sensors on the car is a EGT, exhaust gas temperature sensor. this one of those thermocouple items where the wires are protected from the heat buy a stainless steel covering. Which is all good and nothing to be surprised at.
The Triumph stag has a heater control knob which as the name controls the heating. And there is a power takeoff to light a small bulb to indicate that the heater blower switched on. The main reason for the light is the fact that on position one the blower is as powerful as an asthmatic Half dead mouse. This wasn’t needed so was covered-up/insulated.
The two things are related in the most bizarre and unimaginable reasons. When I switched on the fan you could see the smoke and the sparks, was one of those things that you thought how the fcuk can that really happen. God, or any other religions top bloke, must have really been taking the pisss.
The EGT has been on the car now for a number of years in exactly the same position and not changed. However the cable was heavier than the rest of the wires. This was enough for it to slowly migrate over the years, passed all of the other wires and come to rest upon the heater switch.
this stainless steel wire must have been there for enough to time to slowly, over a number of years, rub away at the insulated covering on the switch.
The stainless steel of the EGT had managed to make contact with the unused heater output on the switch, to conducted power. the first thing it touched, was the hose going from the reservoir to the master cylinder. As it happens this to had a stainless steel covering.
It seems that this was hot enough to melt the internal nylon inner pipe to cause it to slightly seep. Allowing the fluid to slowly flow through and look like the unit was leaking. What a Cnut.
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Last Edit: Apr 4, 2021 11:53:18 GMT by Bullstarz
“It Doesn’t Feel Pity, Or Remorse, Or Fear, And It Absolutely Will Not Stop, Ever, Until You Are Dead!”
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Luckily all it was the pipe from the reservoir going to the master cylinder that was allowing brake fluid to seep out. So all it needed was tightening up and hopefully that will seal it. Sounds an easy job but had to take the dash out which isn’t an easy job, but unfortunately that doesn’t look like the reason the brakes aren’t very good hopefully the new pads will sort that. The brake fluid only just went onto the carpet, I washed those last night, luckily I’ve got sound deadening on the floor so the fluid didn’t go any further.
As the dashboard is out I might as well replace the brake bias cable as the old one had started to fail, had failed. Also the fan heater blower had started to smoke when you turned it on, so a bit more stripping down and I might be able to take that out. Again not an easy job
The clutch on my car is a Tilton 7 1/4 triple plate affair, and these clutches are pretty much on or off. Which can make pulling off a bit, well I don’t think there is words that describe it really. Tilton say to use a .75 master cylinder for the clutch.
Now here is the question or puzzle and I’m very interested if anybody’s got any knowledge or experience, so as the car is part strip down I can do some swapping about.
I’ve done a bit on hydraulics and got a bit of knowledge on physics, and from my reckoning it should work, but more than likely won’t. But I’m thinking of doing is swapping out the 0.75 Master cylinder and swapping it with a 0.7 or 0.625 cylinder.
Doing the maths, as far as I’m concerned the difference will be 15%or 44%respectively. So this should mean that the clutch pedal will be 15% or 44% easier to press. As a consequence of swapping to a smaller master cylinder the amount of fluid pushed to the clutch will be reduced by the same amount.
The clutch should, in principle, still function but to make it work you’d have to press the clutch pedal by 15% or 44% further for it to do so. With the 0.75 master cylinder there is a very small movement of the clutch pedal, between the clutch disengaged and fully engaged. This should also be increased by the same amount. As a result there should be more control of the bite of the clutch.
I’m fairy sure my reasoning is correct but I may be completely barking up the wrong tree, and let’s face it it wouldn’t be the first time.
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Last Edit: Apr 2, 2021 18:37:29 GMT by Bullstarz
“It Doesn’t Feel Pity, Or Remorse, Or Fear, And It Absolutely Will Not Stop, Ever, Until You Are Dead!”
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I hopefully I had the power steering nipped and no more issues, well with that anyway. So I thought I’d turn the car around so I can fit the new pads, which is a bit of an excuse for a drive in the sun. the drive was extremely short as the brakes once again seemed a bit wooden lack of feel not particularly good. It was good that I turned the car around so I can fit the new pads. When I checked under the Bonnet I noticed that’s one of the reservoirs, I think it’s a front brake had gone low.
More fun. Couldn’t see any fluid on the front calipers or pipework so I started looking at the rears but couldn’t really see or smell any brake fluid. Then I noticed that the drivers carpet was wet, and of course it was brake fluid. So One of the unions on the brake Master Cylinder could have a leak or more seriously, which you know it will be, is that the cylinder its self has it gone.
Winner winner chicken dinner
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Last Edit: Apr 1, 2021 19:53:02 GMT by Bullstarz
“It Doesn’t Feel Pity, Or Remorse, Or Fear, And It Absolutely Will Not Stop, Ever, Until You Are Dead!”
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Mar 30, 2021 23:48:44 GMT
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What’s the difference between a thread size of a 1/4 27 tpi NPT and 1/4 27 tpi.
Answer about 4 1/2 hours trying to get a good seal and no leaks until you realise its not a taper like you ordered. Also don’t believe a hose maker who says no need to use any of that sealing stuff. Use plenty of PTFE and a copper washer.
So a 10 minute job of replacing a pipe took about five hours I’ve taken pipes off, pipes on, unions on, unions off. Now hopefully I’ve got a power steering system that will do some power steering and not just seep fluid everywhere within that 30 minutes of driving.
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“It Doesn’t Feel Pity, Or Remorse, Or Fear, And It Absolutely Will Not Stop, Ever, Until You Are Dead!”
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Mar 27, 2021 12:28:30 GMT
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Must admit it sounds like a piston ring has let go. Easiest way to check take all the plugs out, make an adapter for an airline so It can screw in in-place of spark plug, and see where the air comes out.
There’s not much else can pressurise the sump, but at least when you take the plugs out it give you some indication of which cylinder may be causing the issue. There’s always issues when building a car like this. One a few things I remember where I put my engine together was how easy the pistons went into the bore but these were forged custom-made Wisco low compression pistons. I was quite surprised when the engine actually ran as I thought there wouldn’t be enough compression for it do so.
Like that video in the post above when you boost an engine this does put a lot of strain and heat on components. As usual plan for the worst but expect the best.
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“It Doesn’t Feel Pity, Or Remorse, Or Fear, And It Absolutely Will Not Stop, Ever, Until You Are Dead!”
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Mar 26, 2021 21:06:59 GMT
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Not really touched or use the Stag for awhile now, it’s just been sort of put on the back burner. Although, I did do a short run the other day to try to find the cause of a noise. Which turned out to be the drivers side brake disc had slight surface rust that was enough to catch the pads and make metallic noise, which is never a nice noise and sounded a lot more serious than what it was. First time for that.
A second journey was needed to clear that fault. A few applications of the breaks seemed to clear the noise but I found that something that didn’t seem quite right , how do you put it, surprised, on how the brakes worked. Now I know I’ve got I Wilwood set up with pedal box, no servo. Driving the car the brakes didn’t seem to be that good or confidence inspiring. I know the brakes were cold and the standard wilwood pads need to get quite warm for them to work. I can remember when I was driving it a lot, mainly testing it on an airfield, the brakes just got better and better. Which is fine if you got a clear road, airfield , where there is no traffic and you have the opportunity to get that brake up to temperature. Not much use in the real world, where you can guarantee you’ll need the brakes from the cold to work for flawlessly.
so I called up EBC to see what pads they had for my calipers. A few choices yellow stuff, blue stuff or orange stuff. Now I’ve had yellow stuff before on the stag but not with these Wilwood calipers, and they were extremely good. Orange stuff were out of the question there a purely race pads as I thought were blue stuff. however, EBC mentioned that the blue stuff pads were now road legal.
So I enquired how good the where, they replied the like yellow stuff but just more. Far better in every aspect, extremely good initial first bite when cold, even better than the yellow stuff.
When I got home tonight there is a new package waiting for me, new EBC Blue stuff pads. Already to fit when I’ve got the time, the space and of course the weather, its got to be decent as it takes about 100 miles to bed then in.
Has anybody any experience with the EBC blue stuff pads, although really is a bit late now, I should’ve asked a few days ago before i bought them.
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Last Edit: Mar 26, 2021 21:10:31 GMT by Bullstarz
“It Doesn’t Feel Pity, Or Remorse, Or Fear, And It Absolutely Will Not Stop, Ever, Until You Are Dead!”
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Mar 25, 2021 14:02:07 GMT
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Well it turns out the range rover learnt his own new TPMS. Even though when I plug the diagnostics into the car it still came up with the old sensor codes, so these must have to be entered manually. I wasn’t sure if it’s working until yesterday, when it flashed up that the rear left was slightly low, which it had dropped 2 psi. So hopefully that’s all sorted, but might have a slow puncture on the rear left.
Regarding the triumph the promise of warmer sunny rare weather has coaxed me into doing something. I thought I’d take the hardtop off. I was looking at different ways to do it, I thought I could put a winch/hoist on the roof supports in the garages to lift it off. Then I thought, why pay £100 for a winch that was going to use twice a year, once for taking off once a putting It back on again.
so not wanting to waste money on something and used twice a year I thought what else could I use, they have that moment of clarity, my engine lift/crane. With this I thought it allow me to lift the hardtop off the roof, then lifted up to the beam and connector where you can stay for the rest of the year.
so with use of a bit of climbing rope and a few carabiners made it happen.
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“It Doesn’t Feel Pity, Or Remorse, Or Fear, And It Absolutely Will Not Stop, Ever, Until You Are Dead!”
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Feb 12, 2021 13:23:37 GMT
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“It Doesn’t Feel Pity, Or Remorse, Or Fear, And It Absolutely Will Not Stop, Ever, Until You Are Dead!”
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Feb 10, 2021 13:39:20 GMT
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Slightly off topic as it’s got nothing to do with my triumph but, My new (to me) daily driver is another Range Rover but it came with some outrageously large wheels, 24 inch rims, which when driving about in North Devon not only looks stupid but is completely wrong. As the roads aren’t the best and these rims will be destroyed fairly quickly. So with a look on eBay, gumtree and other similar sites I found a set of 20 inch wheels with fairly decent tires. But they didn’t have the TPMS fitted. Also they could’ve done with a paint, they were silver and black would look better on the car. So a quick drive down to a local tire place to take the tires off the rims, spray them black, and take them back to the tire place with new TPMS. Now this is the first car I’ve owned with the pressure tyre pressure monitoring system, there seems to be a lot of confusion on the various websites to if the car will recognise four new senses. I don’t know if Land Rover/range Rover is the same or different to other manufacturers. But it seems a lot of cars need to have each individual sensor reprogrammed, programmed, to the car. But I plugged my diagnostics into the Rover and as far as can tell it mentions it can learn the new tyre pressure sensors. And also shown the ID numbers of all five senses that are fitted on the wheels, theold wheels that is, at the moment. I did write on each wheel the ID number of the TPMS that was, hopefully, fitted to that wheel. Does anybody have an experience on this new witchcraft of the tyre pressure
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Last Edit: Feb 10, 2021 13:47:28 GMT by Bullstarz
“It Doesn’t Feel Pity, Or Remorse, Or Fear, And It Absolutely Will Not Stop, Ever, Until You Are Dead!”
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Well, since 2006, I’ve always relied on keeping my car at some location at work. Now this location this change many times in 14 years, but now I have my own fairly dry garage. And it’s got a door so it’s a little bit warmer than outside. Now it’s got power and lights that means I can work on the car whenever one, one advantage of this Covid stuff. One of my new best tools is a rivet nut gun, which I don’t know how I’ve managed before without it. There’s so many possibilities where it can be used it, as so more activities you can do ( just like in stepbrothers “are you using power tools “). Just waiting for Amazon to deliver the M6 bolts to get a mirror is on.
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“It Doesn’t Feel Pity, Or Remorse, Or Fear, And It Absolutely Will Not Stop, Ever, Until You Are Dead!”
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Jan 20, 2021 23:40:16 GMT
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Finally got the garage almost sorted, the car is at home and in the semi-dry. Not manage to do much on the car but I ordered some new wing mirrors. There from XJS jag, Rolls-Royce or Bentley. Slightly bigger and standard stags but hopefully that mean I can see more out of them. Which let’s face it is a main idea for having them. The main benefit of fitting these types is they have a adjuster which sits inside the car so a lot easier to get a good image. As my car has a roll cage and harness try and adjust the mirrors was a nightmare. The passenger-side usually was over an image of the sky or or the rear wing. Completely useless, but now hopefully all that will change and I will be able tosee where reversing.
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Last Edit: Jan 21, 2021 9:11:48 GMT by Bullstarz
“It Doesn’t Feel Pity, Or Remorse, Or Fear, And It Absolutely Will Not Stop, Ever, Until You Are Dead!”
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