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Did you use the correct procedure when checking the auto box oil? IIRC it should be done with the box hot. With the engine running cycle through each one of the gears manually holding it in each gear for a few seconds. With the engine still running select neutral and then check the oil level. If the engine is not running the gearbox oil pump is not operational and a substantial amount of fluid drains back from the torque convertor causing the level to rise. You Sir, are the font of knowledge. Owe you a beer somewhere along the way. Unless you want to buy it lol cuts out the middle man
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Just been out and had a look and the cable is actually adjusted perfectly, I can feel the slight pressure on the pedal as the kickdown engages. Had a look at the cables and it's perfect, as per the manual. 1mm play.
Dipped the auto box and it's got far too much oil in it, not sure how this will effect anything but ill drain a bit out tomorrow.
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If the autobox is not changing at the correct shift points its most likely that the free play in the kick down cable is wrong - it makes a huge difference to the way the box performs and can actually cause damage to the box if it isn't right. Yours should have a mechanical speedo. If you pull the back off of the instrument pod there should be a right angle drive from the speedo cable onto the speedometer. These are full of grease which over time hardens and cuases the speedo cable to wind up and release making the needle jump about. They can be dismantled, cleaned and repacked with white grease. The brakes are an easy job. There are multiple bleed nipples on the calipers so they cand be bled a chamber at a time. The 3.5 is 168 bhp, not 200!! As previously mentioned, if it is underpowered the cam is probably knackered. I'm glad the brakes are easy to bleed, the pedal is really spongy. I'm also glad I don't have to take too much to bits as i still am suprised by the size of the hubs! don't know where i got 200bhp from, 168 sounds about right tbh. I didnt know the kickdown was controlled by wire. Ill have a look at that tonight. So far today ive: Cleaned out the flame trap Degunked the rocker filter / cleaned the hole out Replaced missing rocker screw Cleaned inlet Cleaned up passenger wing earth points Put a new gasket on the 9th injector Replaced a load of the small vac pipes Greased all the check straps Oiled all the door locks Tightened up the o/s shocker (wasnt even remotely tight!) Ill have a look at that kickdown cable, and try and work out how the idle is controlled. I just cant see anything on the back of the inlet!
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Well, finally got it home on the drive and work is a million times easier. Ive had all the carpets and trim out and cleaned them, and have started pulling bits off the intake side to clean up. curse word everythwere - but a lot of it smells like petrol. A bit too much if you ask me. I still think its overfuelling, with a new CTS. Ive got the TPS and the Flapper off for a clean and test, ive mega cleaned up all the earth points too. don't get me wrong, i appreciate its a 3.5, but it seems deadly slow. I was having to rev the out of it to get up a hill and the autobox seems to change late, maybe its just the way it is! Also, the sodding speedo is all over the place. Soon as i locate the sender ill clean that out too. Realistucally i need to plug the exhaust blow, bleed the brakes and put it in for a test. Not looking forward to bleeding the brakes at all.
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Ahaa maybe its not underpowered then, it doesnt seem that fast for a 200 break motor. (pulling three tonnes of metal about)
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Quick video. Bear in mind this is just to get it running, i appreciate its a bag of curse word inside!
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Last Edit: Aug 4, 2014 16:51:35 GMT by oasis6x
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It is plastic, makes sense that the heater doesnt work well! Its just added to the list..
Success! Today, refitted a new CTS and gave it a good start up and run, drives sweet. A little down on power seemingly, but hopefully an oil change etc is good. It ran at least good enough for me to take it to the MT garage at work and pump all the tyres up, and give it a loving hot jet wash. Its like its got a whole new lease of life.
Next step is moving it tot he drive for some interior TLC and more servicing and care.
For now, I'm in the process of uploading a nice video from the day.
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At the moment I'm at work with the wifes car, but its identical to: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/03-FORD-FIESTA-1-4-ZETEC-TDCI-5D-DIESEL-/141354253655?pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item20e95ebd57150k ish, just had timing belt done, along with a load of other bits. Wheel bearings, tyres etc. Has a steel on the front as the alloy got a puncture and I've not had chance to swap it yet. I just use it to go to work in , but its in very good condition. I have the V5 and some odd bits and bobs of history, but as a lot of parts that have been changed are 'obvious' its pretty easy to eye up whats been done. Ive also recently retrofitted remote central locking and an aux lead to the OEM headunit. When you say bodywork has been tarted up.. what do you mean?
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Last Edit: Aug 2, 2014 17:28:10 GMT by oasis6x
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Interested in a swap for an 03 Fiesta Mk6 1.4 TDCi? Cheapest car to run on the planet, £30 a year tax etc, MOT until end Sep and Tax until Feb 15. My last tank gave me 63mpg, and I'm not exagerrating.
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Last Edit: Aug 2, 2014 14:10:41 GMT by oasis6x
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Used to spray it with old engine oil?
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Jul 31, 2014 11:47:49 GMT
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That grille is superb, how did you find the picture of it in the US?
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The whole suspension is this TerraFirma stuff. Not looked it up, think it orginally had air suspension as there are still some globes. Think it was back end of '92 or '93 that the Classic got EAS. Before that they were on coils with the self-levelling stuff at the rear. EAS is basically just 4 rubber bags instead of springs, shockers as normal, height sensors and associated compressor with an air tank under the RHS sill. No globes like, for example the Citroen. Oh, and the B pillars would have been satin black as per the window frames. Satin black it is then.. So what's the globes in the front inner arches that go nowhere? They have standard vac hose attached to them, maybe 4mm? I'll get a picture of one tomorrow I'm sure there's one behind the passenger headlight.
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Jul 30, 2014 20:27:09 GMT
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I got a bit confused as there are two sensors almost identical together, i think the one towards the front is the one for the ECU? Anyway until parts come, ive been doing some bits and bobs, took some more pics: I presume the little single pin one is the gauge sender, whats the two on the right? Answers on a postcard. Two sensors. I think the brown one is the ECU temp sender? Its the most far forward on the engine. Rear all stripped out ready for some vax action. One of the back windows has a leak leading to a little water in the n/s rear. No rust holes as of yet! Abortion of a CB mount i presume, loverly brown, even smells brown. Mats have been removed for a vax too. Yes thats hammerite, on all the B pillars. I intend to sand it all down and replace with some vynil that matches the D pillars. The whole suspension is this TerraFirma stuff. Not looked it up, think it orginally had air suspension as there are still some globes. Front end needs looking at, bull bar removed. Id like to try and source a replacement lower panel. Tailgate in reasonable nick, and no thats not my disco, think someone was having a laugh when they parked that close. Nice and straight, ish.
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Last Edit: Jul 30, 2014 20:32:56 GMT by oasis6x
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Jul 29, 2014 19:19:44 GMT
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Works been a bit grim recently but i started the diagnostics. I got to about step 8 before i got any major problems - namely the CTS. I suspected this but at 20 degrees it should be reading about 5000ohms.. its reading 50.7 - and i double checked my ohmeter was setup right. Knackered id say.
I ordered a new one today along with an OEM rotor arm. Just looking for someone to move it from my work to home as soon as i can really, but time will tell.
Squonk - cheers for the detailed reply. I'm going to replace the igntion system with OEM bits from the cheapest bit up. The coil looks the same but mine says 'ballast' on it. How would i go about totally blocking off the 9th injector?
I'm also now worried i tested the resistance on the wrong sensor, there seems to be about 4. Ill double check tomorrow but from what i can work out the CTS to change (for the EFI anyway) is vertical, slightly on the n/s, and towards the front of the engine above the fanbelt..?
Also agree with the cleaning, i started last weekend but until its home on the drive its a PITA to get to.
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Last Edit: Jul 29, 2014 19:55:18 GMT by oasis6x
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Jul 26, 2014 19:52:37 GMT
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I went up to the unit today however didnt get round to the diagnostics due to it completely pouring down. I cleaned up all the earth points, cleaned up all the plugs. Checked the rotor arm and it springs back, and with suction on the actuator the arm moves it round with vacuum. I cleaned up all the coil connections and ensured they were tight and.. some success. Engine revved freely and idled great for a while, until it started warming up. I did manage to get it round the carpark and give it a bit of an 'italian tuneup', but as it got warm it then wouldnt idle and kept cutting out. When i went to rev it up, it was popping away to itself. the igntion system, although non OEM (and i know you range rover guys will debate this) is almost brand new so i begrudge swapping it out. I will however if i don't get anywhere from the diagnostics. Obviously its still overfuelling, i suspect its either the CTS or (hoping not) the FPR. THe inlet is stinking of fuel even though the 9th injector is disconnected electronically. I think ill try and nip the hose off, in case somehow its letting extra fuel through. I'm not sure how the idle is controlled but this is also now a suspect. Some quick pics, as everyone like pics and videos. Its at least the best ive managed to get it so far with simple cleaning up. Fingers crossed the rain stays off so i can fiddle with electrics.
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Last Edit: Jul 26, 2014 20:08:21 GMT by oasis6x
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Jul 25, 2014 11:00:11 GMT
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MGF Wheels are the wrong PCD for the 400 series. Most 1.6 models were the K series too. Be interesting to see one with a 1.6 Honda motor. I like these, must to many peoples despair. I always thought they drove nicely when pushed hard. Agggghhh the pedant in me has to correct this!!!! Of this shape rover 200 and 400, All the 1.6's were honda engines in either 16v SOHC or 16v DOHC. In the later bubble shaped Rover 400 launched 95ish (later to become 45) 1.6 manual was a K series and the auto was a honda, in the 200 the 1.6 was a K with a cvt gearbox in the auto. Just seen this on the day I have just MOT'd my fathers 02 plate 45 1.8CVT which is a joy to drive. Lovely car by the way in one of the best colours, sorry to here about your son, both my boys have been in Hospital this year and I know how worrying and stressful it can be. Hope he is ok. Arghhh the pedant in me has to correct this! Except the coupe shared the model code of R8, and did come with a kseries fitted. When they went to MEMS3 management later on in the model range they updaed the engine very slightly to include such things as a coolant level alarm (bit late for that) in the ZR/ZS/ZT. This then coincided with project drive and they stripped half the cars down before they were sold (metal sill panels became plastic, no rear ARB on ZS, no rear ach liners, plastic badges, small number plates on 75/ZT etc etc). I however know which engine i would rather have - and thats from experience. They can be good engines, especially with a VVC, but you spend all the time driving them looking at the temp gauge.
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Jul 25, 2014 10:53:45 GMT
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After loweing the rear camber will no doubt be out. Get some 2mm washers, take the back wheels off, and fit them between the body and the upper suspension arm. there are two m10 bolts that hold it to the body. Its a fiddle to get them in, but two washers on each bolt (between the body and the arm) will sort the camber out and save your tyres. If it still looks out, redo with more washers.
Keep an eye on rust at the front side of the rear arches. If i were you i would remove the back lights and use a sealant gun with some silkaflex in it to seal the back lights to the body (a bead on either side of the foam 'gasket' will suffice) as in the winter your boot will be full of water, guaranteed.
Other common fixes is the heater resistor (can be fixed using maplin resistors at about £3 and some soldering), saggy bumpers (live with it), and alarm/immobiliser issues.
Give us a shout if you need anything, ive had about 15 r8s over the years.
they also share a lot of parts with the newer bubbles, and parts are common between the 200/400/coupe (some exceptions with the coupe, especially front wings). You can however fit coupe bumpers/side trims to yours, and it looks very, very smart.
Best wheels for these in my eyes is the 15" Gti alloys.
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Last Edit: Jul 25, 2014 11:01:59 GMT by oasis6x
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Jul 25, 2014 10:28:31 GMT
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Its 100% flapper. IVe got the diagnostics run through form from lr4x4.com, and i intend to go through it all this weekend. Hopefully it will highlight a problem.
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Last Edit: Jul 25, 2014 10:42:50 GMT by oasis6x
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Jul 25, 2014 10:27:34 GMT
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Rod, big thanks for the reply
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Jul 23, 2014 17:55:29 GMT
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Doesn't that relate to the carb version? I've had the rev counter fail and it takes its lead off the alternator (poor connection). Not sure if I've taken on the best engine as I can see myself chasing this problem all over the bay.
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Last Edit: Jul 23, 2014 18:05:46 GMT by oasis6x
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