keyring
Part of things
Posts: 913
Club RR Member Number: 47
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This was a great read! Certainly had it’s fair share of ups and downs, but overall it’s been a great project so far! Slightly bias opinion, but one of the best colours for a mk2! Even before yours got painted it looked a really clean example, I wish mine was! I ran the same tyres before it came off the road, and they definitely do the job well! Mo5s were a wheel I always wanted for mine, they’ll suit the car perfectly, can’t wait to see more updates on this
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keyring
Part of things
Posts: 913
Club RR Member Number: 47
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Mar 20, 2019 22:01:34 GMT
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Can’t wait to see it with the air fitted So jealous of you taking it to worthersee, I think it’ll go down extremely well over there
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keyring
Part of things
Posts: 913
Club RR Member Number: 47
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Mar 20, 2019 21:56:52 GMT
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I considered a t4 a while ago for a day van, they seem to be great vans with spares readily available Look forward to seeing updates, with the right wheels, they look great when lowered
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keyring
Part of things
Posts: 913
Club RR Member Number: 47
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Mar 20, 2019 21:50:05 GMT
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Not surprised it sold quickly, it’s a shame you had to sell it, but needs must, especially when you think it’ll end up sitting untouched for a while
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keyring
Part of things
Posts: 913
Club RR Member Number: 47
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1985 Honda Acty Show Truckkeyring
@keyring
Club Retro Rides Member 47
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Mar 20, 2019 21:27:36 GMT
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Loving the updates! Body shop look like they’re not wasting any time! Look forward to seeing the proton with lows hopefully you get an updated ETA for the springs soon and it’s before the weekender!
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keyring
Part of things
Posts: 913
Club RR Member Number: 47
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Mar 19, 2019 22:03:19 GMT
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Those wheels look awesome! Definitely the right choice rather than tyres to fit the originals id say! Can’t wait to see them fitted!
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keyring
Part of things
Posts: 913
Club RR Member Number: 47
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Mar 19, 2019 19:25:08 GMT
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Although I don't want to go offroad until I have fixed the issues highlighted in the last update, on Sunday we were lucky enough to get a half decent dusting of snow, so naturally I was away up the back roads playing, had to winch someone back onto the road who had tried to tackle a steep hill, didn't have a phone on him, and had put his rear wheel into a ditch (in a FWD car i'll add) He said the snow just came out of no where So I sorted him out, and couldn't pass up the opportunity to see what flex I could get on the banking (I know not the best plan when my sill isn't in the best condition) When flexing like this, the rear tyre fully scrubs on the rear tub, which has helped justify trimming the arches around the swage line, which will get rid of all the rust, and give me some more room in the arches - always a bonus as the new tyres i'm going for are slightly bigger and a lot more aggressive than the ones currently fitted
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keyring
Part of things
Posts: 913
Club RR Member Number: 47
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Mar 19, 2019 19:19:00 GMT
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Since I got the patrol, it struggled to start in the cold, don't get me wrong, it always started, but it used to put out ridiculous amounts of smoke, and take a while, I changed the glow plugs, and since then it's been perfect.. (unfortunately I didn't take any photos ) Another issue that existed from when I bought it, is the temperature gauge would never move once it reached the lower mark, initially I worried that the thermostat had maybe been pulled to hide an overheating issue, however I removed the stat, and found it was jammed half open, again changed this, and the problem was sorted... So, that takes us up near enough to the current day, last week when I was out at Drumclog, I decided to take it into the woods (which I said I never would, as really, it's too big a truck to manoeuvre through the trees. It squeezed through spaces much better than I expected, however, there is an extremely steep pointed slope which then drops down into the river, when I went over this, it landed on the rock slider pretty hard on a tree root when the front wheels dropped off. Didn't think anything of it, into the car park for lunch, and couldn't open the door more than an inch Jumped out the passenger side, and thought all I had done was bent the rock slider, a big hammer and a pry bar later, the door opened although still catching... Now before I go any further, i'll say that I new the rear arches had been hit with the catty welder, but this was fine, in the summer I planned to cut the rear arches out and weld in fresh metal... End of the day, all washed down, and I was inflating the tyres up, and noticed that when I landed on the rock slider, it had burst the rear arch... I also noticed the windscreen had 4 cracks coming up from the bottom corner, I can only assume this was also due to the impact to the rockslider/sill Once I was home, I could get a proper look at it, and it's slightly worse than expected, the rockslider didn't bend unfortunately, it's actually pulled the box section sill away from the body. With a proper look under, it would appear that the previous owner hasn't removed all the rusty metal when welding in the box section, and it looked like it hadn't had much in the way of coatings/protection after the welding either, so it has brought forward the plans to get stuck into the bodywork now, as I don't really want to take it offroad until i've sorted the sill.... A bit gutting, but nothing I shouldn't be able to sort, there's an offroad weekender in May I planned to attend, so i'm going to try and get it sorted by then, there's a few other bits also needing done, so I think i'll try get it all done at once!
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keyring
Part of things
Posts: 913
Club RR Member Number: 47
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RR's that do great MPGkeyring
@keyring
Club Retro Rides Member 47
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Mar 18, 2019 21:04:47 GMT
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306 d-turbo, HDi for more refinement. They take a tuning chip well too 2.0 HDi is the one to go for (if considering a 206)
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Last Edit: Mar 18, 2019 21:05:26 GMT by keyring
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keyring
Part of things
Posts: 913
Club RR Member Number: 47
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Planning a French Road Tripkeyring
@keyring
Club Retro Rides Member 47
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Mar 18, 2019 21:02:44 GMT
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I must say, even with the few photos in this thread, it puts me in the mood for a similar trip!
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keyring
Part of things
Posts: 913
Club RR Member Number: 47
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Mar 18, 2019 19:43:37 GMT
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Yeah the SJs do really well, as you say, they don't have any weight in them! I'm enjoying the patrol, it's much more suited to doing a longer journey too, which I would like to take advantage off and go offroading further-afield. I have an update for the Patrol thread regarding that, but yeah, they certainly know how to rust I've got some work to do that was hoping wouldn't require attention until the summer.... Oh well haha! I assume a new axle would be on the cards before more power then? The start of the fuel tank looks great! What sort of range will that give you? I wouldn't mind an old Patrol or Land Cruiser as a daily commuter, but the fuel costs would be too prohibitive! Front axle just needs some uprated internals, 24 spline 4 pin diff and CV joints should be more than man enough for what I could throw at it, with some form of anti-tramp to keep it in check. The new tank I think calculates to approx 65ltr capacity, similar to the rear tank, maybe more if I add some wings to the top to extend above the chassis rails? Should give at least 700 miles range if I was to run both down to almost empty. With the single underseat fuel tank I get only 4 days of commuting before I need to refuel, around 230 miles. Would be nice to not have to make specific detours just for fuel, and just fill up when convenient. I can back up that comment right there! I'm getting between 16-18mpg Ahh excellent, not too much work then! That'll be a nice increase! Especially if it means you can go a week without refilling!
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keyring
Part of things
Posts: 913
Club RR Member Number: 47
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Body & Paint Threadkeyring
@keyring
Club Retro Rides Member 47
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Mar 18, 2019 19:39:43 GMT
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Perfect, i'll get some ordered up, I assume when you put it in, it can end up blocking drain holes in the chassis, can these stay blocked due to the product or do they still need to be unblocked? Brilliant, again i'll get it ordered up! I assume the sheet can be welded straight away and doesn't require to be cleaned up with the grinder? Or is it the same as the normal mild when you buy it, give it a clean with the grinder where the welds are going? I'll try and look more into it, and see if i can find any more. My main stipulation is that it does give protection from rust, and doesn't end up like a primer drawing in moisture. The keeping it clean isn't too much of an issue, as it'll just be a big soft bristle brush and soapy water, like you say, what the vehicle is used for, it doesn't have to be gleaming after a wash Thanks for the Info! When you do the cavity wax its a messy job and the Dinitrol ML is very fluid when first used (it solidifies over a period) - the drain holes within the cavities are there for a reason so after a week or so make sure that you unblock these - water can enter cavities by various methods but the one that most owners don't consider is condensation - you have warm areas of the vehicle - engine bay / exhaust routing etc set against colder areas of the vehicle hence condensation forms within cavities around these areas - not huge amounts but then again you don't need gallons of moisture for rust ingress to take hold - you may also want to consider blocking the drain holes / covering them over with a little tape then the cavity wax can be allowed to flood the floor areas of the section - remove the tape after a week or so (do likewise with drain holes on the bottom of the doors) Zintec - If you just shine the edge of it up with a flap wheel you will find easier to weld - however, take care has zinc / air borne zinc dust is not good for your respiratory system - so use a good mask Perfect, thanks again for the info! I'll clear any holes with a scribe once the Dinitrol has set My biggest worry will be making sure i've got all of the mud'dirt out of the chassis! And that's what I thought, i'll make sure I get a good mask! Thanks!
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keyring
Part of things
Posts: 913
Club RR Member Number: 47
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Body & Paint Threadkeyring
@keyring
Club Retro Rides Member 47
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Mar 14, 2019 17:43:17 GMT
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Unfortunately when I was out offroading at the weekend, it's highlighted the work I had planned for the summer on the bodywork of the patrol is going to need to be done a lot sooner! (Perhaps before other projects) Fortunately the chassis is still solid, so I plan to get that filled with Dinitrol straight away, I can't be 100% sure the entire chassis is clean (mud etc) inside the legs, but if I flush it for a while with a hose, allow it time to try, and then fill it with Dinitrol, I assume that's better than not having it at all? The bodywork I have to sort is mainly the arches and box section sills(where it's been welded doesn't appear to be as solid as it should be) I'm going to use zintec for this, do you have a recommended thickness for general body panels? Or do you go for whatever thickness the original panel is? Finally, with this being an offroader, and body damage (scratches especially) being a common thing, I had thought about painting it a matt or satin finish colour, probably easier using rattle cans? Will all paint protect metal from rust? Or is that not the case The reason I ask, is a friend has his truck painted with graffiti paint (https://www.montana-cans.com/en/spray-cans/montana-spray-paint/black-50ml-600ml-graffiti-paint/montana-black-400ml) I like the range of colours and matt finish, and cans al-be-it an expensive way? may be easier and can be touched up too... But I wouldn't want to use it if it is going to be a porous paint/won't protect from rusting like a normal auto paint Sorry for so many questions... Your ideas for the Dinitrol application should be fine - get a lance to use with the cavity wax to ensure that you get to all of the cavity sections For the sheet metal work and given what you will using the vehicle for I would use 1.2mm on the body panels I have no experience of the graffiti paint - although some rave on about it - it will be far more difficult to keep a matt colour clean than it will a gloss colour but I don't think that this will trouble you given what you are utilising the vehicle for. Perfect, i'll get some ordered up, I assume when you put it in, it can end up blocking drain holes in the chassis, can these stay blocked due to the product or do they still need to be unblocked? Brilliant, again i'll get it ordered up! I assume the sheet can be welded straight away and doesn't require to be cleaned up with the grinder? Or is it the same as the normal mild when you buy it, give it a clean with the grinder where the welds are going? I'll try and look more into it, and see if i can find any more. My main stipulation is that it does give protection from rust, and doesn't end up like a primer drawing in moisture. The keeping it clean isn't too much of an issue, as it'll just be a big soft bristle brush and soapy water, like you say, what the vehicle is used for, it doesn't have to be gleaming after a wash Thanks for the Info!
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keyring
Part of things
Posts: 913
Club RR Member Number: 47
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Mar 14, 2019 17:05:31 GMT
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it’s at this point I need to hold my hand up and admit I did have an sj, however it gets picked up next week. I’ve replaced it with a swb patrol fitted with a TD42... Do you have plans to go for much more power? Now I do like the old SJ's! Like an early Land Rover, but with an interior and before they gained weight. Those Patrols are also great, and great at rusting I believe? Maybe more power will come in the future, I don't trust the front axle and transmission to put any more through it, and should really fit a bigger turbo too.... Yeah the SJs do really well, as you say, they don't have any weight in them! I'm enjoying the patrol, it's much more suited to doing a longer journey too, which I would like to take advantage off and go offroading further-afield. I have an update for the Patrol thread regarding that, but yeah, they certainly know how to rust I've got some work to do that was hoping wouldn't require attention until the summer.... Oh well haha! I assume a new axle would be on the cards before more power then? The start of the fuel tank looks great! What sort of range will that give you?
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keyring
Part of things
Posts: 913
Club RR Member Number: 47
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1991 Peugeot 309 GTIkeyring
@keyring
Club Retro Rides Member 47
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Mar 14, 2019 16:59:02 GMT
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I'll hopefully see the you and the car there then cdeery1 I'm hoping to have the 106 there, never been before, but always hear good things!
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keyring
Part of things
Posts: 913
Club RR Member Number: 47
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Mar 14, 2019 16:56:22 GMT
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What bodges? scotchlocs, lots and lots of scotchlocs! plus random bits of wood, cable ties, and jubilee clips. And shonky filler. Ahh, yeah that sounds bad, but someone somewhere will always class it as an acceptable fix! I was at Errol when this went for sale, it looked like a good car apart from the odd little niggle, seemed like it would tidy up well to me. Ahh excellent, it does need time spent on it, but whether or not I end up spending the time required is another thing, got quite a few things all needing my time at the moment Also burst a heater hose on Tuesday, just as I was leaving to head to Aberdeen for a couple days courses.... Dumped in the drive and Patrol to the rescue
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keyring
Part of things
Posts: 913
Club RR Member Number: 47
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Body & Paint Threadkeyring
@keyring
Club Retro Rides Member 47
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Unfortunately when I was out offroading at the weekend, it's highlighted the work I had planned for the summer on the bodywork of the patrol is going to need to be done a lot sooner! (Perhaps before other projects) Fortunately the chassis is still solid, so I plan to get that filled with Dinitrol straight away, I can't be 100% sure the entire chassis is clean (mud etc) inside the legs, but if I flush it for a while with a hose, allow it time to try, and then fill it with Dinitrol, I assume that's better than not having it at all? The bodywork I have to sort is mainly the arches and box section sills(where it's been welded doesn't appear to be as solid as it should be) I'm going to use zintec for this, do you have a recommended thickness for general body panels? Or do you go for whatever thickness the original panel is? Finally, with this being an offroader, and body damage (scratches especially) being a common thing, I had thought about painting it a matt or satin finish colour, probably easier using rattle cans? Will all paint protect metal from rust? Or is that not the case The reason I ask, is a friend has his truck painted with graffiti paint (https://www.montana-cans.com/en/spray-cans/montana-spray-paint/black-50ml-600ml-graffiti-paint/montana-black-400ml) I like the range of colours and matt finish, and cans al-be-it an expensive way? may be easier and can be touched up too... But I wouldn't want to use it if it is going to be a porous paint/won't protect from rusting like a normal auto paint Sorry for so many questions...
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keyring
Part of things
Posts: 913
Club RR Member Number: 47
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Mar 12, 2019 23:48:25 GMT
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Even with the sills, it seems a great buy considering the price! Looks a great project for providing some fun for shows Bookmarked!
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keyring
Part of things
Posts: 913
Club RR Member Number: 47
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Mar 12, 2019 23:38:23 GMT
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You say "£2600 respray back in 2014.... It's just a shame that the work doesn't match the price" well maybe it does math the price that's the sort of quality work I would expect for that price probably £2k for the labour and £600 for the rest, at least someone has tried to look after it in the past. Well it's in good hands now.
This is true, however for that money, i'd have hoped for less/no runs or micro-blistering, but as you say, at least someone has tried to look after it. As much as I say the paintwork isn't the best, in terms of using it as a daily, it's good enough, and it means i'm not worrying about stone chips all the time! Super cool car. Cleaned up and driven, or modded- either way, it's a win. I like 400+ hbp though. Thanks, yeah, my last set up was 272bhp and 272ftlb, and it went well, again the noise is the big attraction, especially with the screamer pipe. If the turbo set up does end up in this car, it would probably be temporary until the other car is ready for it, but I shall see what happens It would appear that you car has been spared the level of bodgery that has been applied to some 'rados. Some of the tales that I have heard lead me to think that there is a special place in Bodging Hell for a small number of Corrado owners.... Ohh? So far i've not uncovered any, but that's not to say it doesn't have them, what are the bodges you've seen/heard of? It'll give me something to look out for Great cars when not rotten, and yours looks good. There used to be a guy specialising in these near me in Buckingham advertised mostly through the bay of evil.... It does have surface rust along the sills and on the inner lips of the arches, but my plan is to get it rubbed back asap and treated, hopefully keep it at bay!
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keyring
Part of things
Posts: 913
Club RR Member Number: 47
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1991 Peugeot 309 GTIkeyring
@keyring
Club Retro Rides Member 47
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Mar 12, 2019 23:30:15 GMT
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Love a 309! and a 205 for that matter! Extremely envious of your collection!! Certainly looks like you got a very nice example! The wheel arches scrubbed up well! Cant wait to see more updates and hopefully see it at some shows Is it going to Pugfest?
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