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Spent the last two weeks goin in garage every night after work till after midnight, a few occasions till around 3am working on the bodywork of my Capri. Ive smoothed in two arches and have one side in primer, smoothed all the front valance and wings in and filled all the dents/rust (took rust out with grinder completely first) . Anyway. the primer has revealed that you can see all the filler underneath and quite frankly, it looks wibblepoo. I'm gutted, does anyone know if it can be sorted? It seems the primer has 'sunk' maybe, all the repair work is flat Ive been using a long peice of wood to sand it all its perfectly straight but it seems all my effort and money has been a complete waste. Can anyone point me in the right direction?   its fairly common to see maps /circles around the filler work , after all thats why we use high build primer after the primer has dried off nicley , tickle it up with some 240 and dust another coat of primer on , it should look alot better |
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91 golf g60, 89 golf 16v , 88 polo breadvan
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"Hang on are you the guy that had my cortina in Bedford?"
Cursedhearse, yeah thats me! Hows it going mate?
"its fairly common to see maps /circles around the filler work , after all thats why we use high build primer
after the primer has dried off nicley , tickle it up with some 240 and dust another coat of primer on , it should look alot better"
I like the sound of that, Ive pulled car out taken a few pictures and put it back in with space on the other side now and just prepped for doing the arches. Once all the dents/rust/arches are done on this side then I guess I should prime it all then go round feathering the edges of the circles with wet 240 and keep doing that?
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guide coat over the filler area ...i.e mist on some rattle can matt black
then sand those dodgy areas with 180/240/320 (ajust grades for how good or bad it is) using a flat block where possible , the guide coat will remain in any dodgy areas and then re fill any pits and reprime ....repeat until its smooth and to your liking
to be fair i wouldnt expect anyone thats not done bodywork to get the fillerwork spot on first time ...
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91 golf g60, 89 golf 16v , 88 polo breadvan
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Does sound like the filler's shrunk. Blocking not hand sanding has to be done, and also be aware of the direction - like if yr sanding hard from paint towards the filler, you stand more chance of cutting up the filler edge.
Filler primer, though canned stuff can shrink back esp if slathered on too thick too quick, and/or thin scrape of stopper before that, might help out.
Not sure it applies, but with the edges and tape thing, you can roll up some wide tape into a tube, sticky side out. Paint bounces off, makes a softer edge if you need a blend.
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'66 Amazon <-> '94 LS400 <-> '86 Suzuki 1135 EFE
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testacorsa
Part of things
The best car safety device is a rear-view mirror with a cop in it.
Posts: 49
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Mar 12, 2009 12:02:21 GMT
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I also had this problem in the past. I was told by a retired car painter, that I should avoid using aerosols. The problem with aerosols is that the paint doesn´t hold very much substance, meaning that when it dries up, you are left with very fine layer of paint, due to most of the paint being paint thinner that just evaporates. I got myself a small compressor (only 25 liter tank), a good "hobby" spraygun, and an airpressure regulator. I use a 2 component (the paint and a hardener) Spies Hecker filler of ebay Germany. This has worked so much better, and I haven´t gottten the problem since then. Admitted: it takes some cleaning of the gun after you are finished, so it´s more work, but you are now using a much better product, and it´s way cheaper in the long run. Another bonus is that the filler/primer is a perfect match for when you send it of to paint + you can now give the whole car primer to save some money on the final paint job. Remember to buy a good mask too (with active coal filter), to avoid being a vegetable after the first layer  . Toxic stuff!!!! |
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Last Edit: Mar 12, 2009 12:05:07 GMT by testacorsa
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dannyb
South East
Posts: 1,049 
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Mar 12, 2009 12:27:51 GMT
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smoothed it out with wet 240 it's best not to get you filler wet. if you prefer to use rattle cans for your primer we use a company called KENT and can highly recommend there high build primer. we use it on all the trade/sales work and on some of the smaller repairs the we get in. |
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. Toxic stuff!!!!
