really informative, but as an ex tyre fitter, fitting tubes in tubless wheels don't usually work, tube tyres are smooth on the inside but tubeless tyres have ridges on the inside which very quickly wear through the tube.
I've seen somewhere (here or driftworks) someone cutting the wheel with an angle grinder. I was thinking of doing that myself but i'm afraid it wont work that well. Any ideas on that?
If you mark the wheel very accurately and cut slowly and carefully with a 1mm slit disc, it's possible, just be sure to make some marks 90 degrees to the peripheral cut, so you know you're welding the two together in the same position they were originally in.
A really cheeky way of doing it is getting 2 sets of wheels, cutting the outer rim off both, the centre out of one, then welding the 2 together. This eliminates any band and means you only have one welded joint which is easier to hide behind the wheel centre. The problem is you are limited on how wide you can make the wheel by the original width of the 2 wheels you cut up. Take my metro wheels for example. If I had used this method the max width I could have achieved was 5” wide (just 1 inch wider than stock) because there simply was not enough material to play with in the centre of the rim (1 inch to be exact).
The method above describes using the inner section of one rim and the outer section of another rim. But, is there any reason why you couldn't use the same method using both inner rim sections from each set. Like this...
This might allow more width on certain styles of steels and I don't think there is any difference in the inner and outer rim construction. The only slight difference would be the lack of a valve mounting point which would need drilling in.
Possible or not? Either way i'd sure like to know.
You would struggle mounting a tyre to this style of rim, you need the shallower step to pop your tyre on!
as an ex tyre fitter 15 years ago i think you would be better trying if you can to keep them tubeless poss spray soapy water on welds to see if they leak . the reason why i say this is the fact that if you have a puncture in a tubed tyre they will go flat rather sharpish as apposed to tubeless which tend to go down slow especially if the offending item is still in the tyre i have seen mainly motorcycle tools ie spanner 10mm/12mm spark plugs little pliers and even parts of a cats eye amongst the norm nails screws and glass . if your stuck in the middle of no ware with a puncture and a flat spare and the item poss nail is in middle of thread put a self taper in it to get you home . if you fit a tube from memory (law might of changed) you must buff of the less in tubeless on the tyre sidewall ?? i miss my moggie van with banded wheels it looked the dogs in the eighties i drove it to pat roaches scrap yard for scrap as well as a saab v4 an a couple of escorts if only i kept em i even sold a mexico q plated cause it was costing too much in petrol lol
Yeh I think your right. It should technically be decrease the offset as it would add more negative pushing the centerline of the wheel further in..
That said this thread is ancient and I really wouldn't take much notice of it nowerdays. I do it alot differently now and, well, banded steels are common as muck and anyone will do them for less than its even worth doing them yourself... Alot changes in ten years..