|
|
|
Apr 11, 2024 22:07:14 GMT
|
It takes about ten minutes to drop a T2 engine! Really?! |
| |
|
|
|
|
glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,105
Club RR Member Number: 64
|
1977 VW Type 2 Bay High Roofglenanderson
@glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member 64
|
|
|
It takes about ten minutes to drop a T2 engine! Really?! When you know what you’re doing, yes, really. Back in the day, I could have a beetle or van clutch swapped in under an hour. Realistically though, if you’re doing it for the first time, then it’s probably a morning’s work to get it out, and the same to put it back. Certainly easier to pull the engine out than to muck around trying to sort the tank in situ. Just be aware that the more you dismantle, the more you will find that needs doing. 🤣 |
| |
My worst worry about dying is my wife selling my stuff for what I told her it cost...
|
|
|
|
|
Apr 21, 2024 17:12:02 GMT
|
Had a few hours on the bus today. I've had to call it a night around dinner time as I just couldn't get the engine to split from the gearbox. Here's what I've done: Jacked up the back and put on axle stands Removed battery Removed the front tin Removed fuel hoses Removed wiring and labelled up Removed coil Disconnected throttle cable Disconnected heater flap cable Removed heater ducts Supported gearbox Removed 2 lower engine to gearbox nuts Removed bumper Drained oil Removed engine crossmember bolts Removed the offside engine to gearbox bolt Removed another bolt that I 'think' was the nearside engine to gearbox bolt Removed starter motor bolt I can see the engine and bell housing are apart slightly at the bottom - I just can't get the 2 to split. I have the gearbox supported and the engine on a hydraulic jack on wheels with wood under the sump area. I think I must have missed a bolt so I'm going to get the work light and have a late one tomorrow evening/night. Need to get her running again. Hoping to stay in it and Santa Pod end of May and the list keeps growing! Found about 6" of rear bumper end of the nearside chassis rail is rotten so I'll need to do that as well as weld in seat belt points for the rock and roll bed. I also need to fit my minibus seat and rails with under floor support.    |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Apr 21, 2024 17:32:55 GMT
|
|
Isn't there four bolts altogether 2 bolts and 2 nuts, 2 at the bottom either side and 2 at the top either side.
I am usually wrong so could be again.
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Apr 21, 2024 17:34:05 GMT
|
|
I seem to think there was 2 you got at from underneath then 2 you got at from above behind the dog house.
|
| |
|
|
glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,105
Club RR Member Number: 64
|
1977 VW Type 2 Bay High Roofglenanderson
@glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member 64
|
Apr 21, 2024 22:56:47 GMT
|
|
Yes. Four bolts. Two at the bottom, which are easy to get at.
The two at the top are a little more awkward. The first one, on the left side, behind the fan housing by the oil cooler is easy enough, although you do have to get to it by feel. The second one is one of the two holding the starter motor on, and I suspect that you have undone the wrong one of those, which is why the engine won’t come off the gearbox.
|
| |
My worst worry about dying is my wife selling my stuff for what I told her it cost...
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Yes. Four bolts. Two at the bottom, which are easy to get at. The two at the top are a little more awkward. The first one, on the left side, behind the fan housing by the oil cooler is easy enough, although you do have to get to it by feel. The second one is one of the two holding the starter motor on, and I suspect that you have undone the wrong one of those, which is why the engine won’t come off the gearbox. That's promising to hear - thank you for the advice! I'm going to have another go tonight after work |
| |
|
|
misteralz
Posted a lot
I may drive a Volkswagen, but I'm scene tax exempt!
Posts: 2,338
|
|
|
|
|
What Glen said. One of them's annoying AF as standard as well, as it's a nut and bolt. If it's been out before, by someone who thought there was even the remotest chance they'd have to do it again, it'll hopefully have the special bolt.
|
| |
|
|
misteralz
Posted a lot
I may drive a Volkswagen, but I'm scene tax exempt!
Posts: 2,338
|
|
|
|
|
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
I'm sure I felt that bolt... why is it half moon shaped?? |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Yes. Four bolts. Two at the bottom, which are easy to get at. The two at the top are a little more awkward. The first one, on the left side, behind the fan housing by the oil cooler is easy enough, although you do have to get to it by feel. The second one is one of the two holding the starter motor on, and I suspect that you have undone the wrong one of those, which is why the engine won’t come off the gearbox. One of the bolts I removed was covered in oil which makes me think that it wasn't the right one! I reckon it's that half moon starter bolt - I'm hoping to try tonight |
| |
|
|
misteralz
Posted a lot
I may drive a Volkswagen, but I'm scene tax exempt!
Posts: 2,338
|
|
|
|
I'm sure I felt that bolt... why is it half moon shaped?? Because if the usual 17mm headed bolt is in there you haven't got the clearance to get a socket or ring spanner on it. This one fits the recess perfectly and doesn't rotate when you're loosening or tightening the nut on the other end of it. |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Apr 23, 2024 12:32:55 GMT
|
|
Ah Ok - that makes sense. It'll be easier attacking it tonight armed with this knowledge!
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Apr 23, 2024 21:16:13 GMT
|
|
It was the nut on back the half moon bolt! Thanks guys 👍
Just dropped the engine and removed the nuts from the tank straps - next step is to drain the tank (I'll have to syphon out the top as the outlet is blocked) then remove the filler neck and sender wires.
I'm not sure I'll be able to get the tank over the engine as the engine is still in the bay, just dropped to the floor. The van is currently not high enough to get the engine under the variance. Fingers crossed the tank will slide over without having to mess more
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Tank off and drained. The outlet was blocked with this material - almost the consistency of thin vinyl gloves but easier to snap. It was in the outlet pipe and blocking the end. Unfortunately, the outlet pipe snapped off [emoji20] Now - looking in the tank, I was very surprised to see the condition. Looks mint! There is a bit around the outlet (inside the tank) that looks funny. I'm suspecting that this tank has been sealed in the past, and this is a bit of the sealant that's pulled away. What do you think? I can get the pipe repaired easy enough. I'm just wondering if the Por 15 kit (metal etching rust nuetraliser prep and industrial strength cleaner) will remove the old sealant (if it is old sealant). Or do I need to cut my losses and fork out £300 for a new tank. Could it even just be a piece of something that's fallen in? [emoji848]   |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Apr 29, 2024 17:24:41 GMT
|
|
Old trick for cleaning a tank was strap it to a cement mixer, throw in old bolts, nuts etc and spin it for a while and flush it all out. That'll loosen anything that can be loosened (just in case yours has something from before , but frankly that looks excellent to me) and when you treat it inside it should work fine....if there's no holes. Then use the POR. Good luck.
PS don't forget to spin the tank in a few different positions to ensure it get cleaned everywhere.
|
| |
Last Edit: Apr 29, 2024 17:25:52 GMT by ducklooker
|
|
|
|
|
Apr 29, 2024 21:34:48 GMT
|
|
Without knowing what if any thing it's coated with it's difficult to know what to do.
On both our Minor an Elan I blanked off the original bottom tubes and added a dip tube to the gauge sender with a filter on the end filter keeps large pieces of muck out and it's easy to remove and clean, do need a fuel pump that will suck it up though.
|
| |
|
|
