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Thanks, Ill send you a PM now.
Googling what the over-run valve is, it looks like it may not be fitted to my Ford version, as there isnt anything that looks like one attached to my AFM or airbox. Still waiting on my pressure tester.
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jpr1977
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 656
Club RR Member Number: 18
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Sept 6, 2019 22:56:54 GMT
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Thanks, I received your emails. Some good info in there, and will help me get stuck in to resetting the whole thing and setting up from scratch.
Looks like no fuel or over run cutoff on this thing. Its probably one of the simplest versions of Kjet.
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Sept 7, 2019 11:20:36 GMT
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Just as a quick follow up. I have ordered a set of new injectors, will be removing the fuel distributor to inspect/clean the plunger, and WUR to clean filter. I'll be setting it up properly from a zero setting after cleaning everything. Just waiting on parts/tools to arrive. I've noticed the AFM sensor plate is way out of setting (should be sitting a lot lower than it is) so either its sticking or its been setup incorrectly (50:50 on either). Chances are the system was running a bit average due to a lack of maintenance, so it was "tweaked" to compensate and now its all out of whack, seems pretty common for people taking on projects with KJet.
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Sept 30, 2019 6:22:24 GMT
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Right, so its coming all back together now. New injectors, cleaned WUR and Distributor. Pressure test shows good system pressure, at just below 5BAR, but the cold control pressure is far too high at 3.6BAR, where it should be about 0.6BAR when cold and 3.6BAR warm.
Need to test warm pressure, but i suspect it wont go much higher. Either I need to replace the WUR, or strip it again and tap the pin out and adjust it.
Car is still in bits so this is non-running testing, and havent started it yet.
E: Pressure doesnt change when WUR outlet is cracked, or when the WUR heater is connected. So the issue is in the WUR, and not a blockage down the line.
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Last Edit: Sept 30, 2019 6:45:08 GMT by Kelvinator
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Oct 19, 2019 19:10:29 GMT
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Hi, I had this with my Sierra 4x4 witht the 2.8 engine in, I also played with the fuel side cleaning injectors etc it turned out to be on mine the distributor at fault, had a mate who did banger racing and had the same engine as mine and borrowed his dizzy and it ran fine. Put mine in his banger and it faulted just like it did id me car and his had a weber carb on it Not saying it will cure it on yours but it did mine
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Do you mean ignition distributor, or fuel distributor?
I replaced the fuel pump today, and still getting low system pressure. Its about 4 bar. I can get it higher, but it requires fitting a whopping great washer into the regulator as a shim. I got it to 5bar, but then testing it again 5 minutes later couldn't get over 4bar. Control pressure is pretty random, and very slow to rise.
I'm trying to get hold of another pressure testing setup, and i have my suspicions about my gauge.
The car is running again now, but I haven't taken it for a drive to see how it feels. I really want to get the pressures right before going too far though.
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Phil H
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,448
Club RR Member Number: 133
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Do you mean ignition distributor, or fuel distributor? Give he talks of a Weber carb, I’d say the ignition dizzy.
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Oct 26, 2019 18:01:39 GMT
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Hi Mate, yes sorry it was the ignition distributor on mine Played with it after and found the plate was moving for advance on the ignition
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Oct 26, 2019 18:03:48 GMT
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Wasn't moving that should of read
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Thanks but everything in the distributor appears to move as it should, and I'm 90% sure the issue is the fuel system. As above I'm battling to get to get system pressure high enough (even with a copper washer as a shim on the main regulator I'm only just making it to 5BAR, but ideally need 5.5BAR), and if I reset the WUR pin to unrestricted cold control pressure, control pressure gets close to where I need the pressure by tapping the pin into the body, but gets to a point where the pressure just either fails to increase at all, or is very slow to increase to the 0.5BAR pressure.
Its a new pump, with a recent filter, cleaned fuel distributor and WUR. Cleaned the WIR mesh filters. New injectors.
I havent tried to take it for a drive yet, as tbh this pressure thing has gotten me down to a point where I loathe the car sitting in my garage and would rather not look at it, but it does need to be fixed.
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Thanks but I do have all the CIS guides and manuals and none of them really seem to help with my issue.
I have ordered a replacement german made Kjetronic test gauge to see if my Chinese one is inaccurate or not.
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Nov 21, 2019 14:10:44 GMT
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Mine had a non return valve that was screwed into the fuel pump and the delivery side on mine When I bought the car for £70 as non runner found that the non return valve had partially seized and so wouldn't run at all. Just stuck a spare pump on it that I had and it was fine after that Might help you....
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Right, as i finally have the car running and driving properly i will admit my failures and update this thread.
The pressures issue was that my fancy expensive pressure gauge was curse word. It basically reads random numbers. Got a new one, made my WUR adjustable, and set the pressures perfectly.
Secondly, the cutting out/hesitation. I'm an idiot. I'll freely admit that. It was cutting out because the low fuel in the tanks (about 5L in each) was sloshing away from the fuel outlet on the tanks when accelerating. The outlet is at the front of the tank, which is a stupid design.
Thanks for everyones help and ideas, even if it was my stupidity that caused the issue.
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Not stupidity mate, a random model specific 'quirk' allied to a dodgy gauge giving wrong info leading to false evidence.
As a friend of mine would say "Good job man"
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Needs a bigger hammer mate.......
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The person who never made a mistake never made anything Glad you got there in the end
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