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Apr 25, 2019 20:59:06 GMT
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the signal from my crank sensor is too much, i added a 10k VR resistor, played with it and found i need to add a 1k one..
I am not sure how to do it, i mean , I'm thinking of getting some veraboard, soldering the resistor in soldering the wires onto the board, and adding silicone over it all.
Is there a better way of doing it?
thanks
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Apr 25, 2019 21:37:26 GMT
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I would have thought that soldering the resistor in line with the crank sensor cable using heat shrink wrap is probably best.
How would a crank sensor give "too much signal" though? It is merely a fine coil of wire (similar to a loudspeaker, headphone, etc.) that detects the position of the toothed wheel on the crank pulley. The actual signal is usually minute.
FWIW, I had a 1999 Fiat Cinquecento Sporting Abarth, that had the crank sensor mounted to bottom of the (iron) engine block. As the block heated up in traffic, the sensor would become hot and its resistance would rise, to the point where the ECU could no longer 'see' it, and would cut the engine off abruptly! You would then have to wait for up to 20 minutes for things to cool down before it would start again - a real PITA if you ever needed to drive into town, etc.
I tried fitting two new ones, added numerous cooling aids, such as spraying it silver, adding ducting to blow air onto it, etc., but it would still do it so I sold it in the end, before it drove me crackers. Common Fiat problem on various models in the range of that age.
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Apr 25, 2019 21:40:10 GMT
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I would probably solder it in line and then cover it with glue lined heat-shrink tubing. Pick a location where it can be wrapped into the loom for additional support and won't get flexed.
Nick
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1967 Triumph Vitesse convertible (old friend)
1996 Audi A6 2.5 TDI Avant (still durability testing)
1972 GT6 Mk3 (Restored after loong rest & getting the hang of being a car again)
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Apr 26, 2019 19:51:18 GMT
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right ok thanks!
the signal is strong as its a microsquirt ecu, its looking for a 30-1 pulley and i have 60-2, int eh manual it says you may need 1-10k resistor to get it working right.
thanks for the info!
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Adding a resistor is not the answer to your problem..try adjusting settings within the ecu that you're using.
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If your management system cant handle standard signals from day one you should be looking for why this is a problem. Sensors and actuators are usually to an industry standard of sorts, stop adding resistors and creating more problems and go back to basics.
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from the microsquirt manual
"Some installs may find it necessary to install a "shunt" resistor between VR+ and VR- to reduce the signal
voltage at higher RPMs. A 1/4W resistor is sufficient and values in the range of 1k to 10k.
10k is recommended for 60-2 wheels."
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Apr 27, 2019 21:05:53 GMT
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from the microsquirt manual "Some installs may find it necessary to install a "shunt" resistor between VR+ and VR- to reduce the signal voltage at higher RPMs. A 1/4W resistor is sufficient and values in the range of 1k to 10k. 10k is recommended for 60-2 wheels." If it's looking for 30-1 get a trigger wheel to suit, or configure the ecu for 60-2. A resistor wont help the problem you have. |
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1988 Mercedes w124 superturbo diesel 508hp
1996 Mercedes s124 e300 diesel wagon
1990 BMW E30 V8 M60 powered!
1999 BMW E46 323ci project car
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Apr 27, 2019 21:24:31 GMT
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by adding the resistor is what the user manual says to do if you use a 60-2 pulley, its not a home made idea, its what they say to do!
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Apr 27, 2019 21:57:34 GMT
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by adding the resistor is what the user manual says to do if you use a 60-2 pulley, its not a home made idea, its what they say to do! That's to keep the voltage in check, it wont change what the sensor can see. |
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1988 Mercedes w124 superturbo diesel 508hp
1996 Mercedes s124 e300 diesel wagon
1990 BMW E30 V8 M60 powered!
1999 BMW E46 323ci project car
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Apr 27, 2019 22:13:36 GMT
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maybe its a voltage problem then? I don't know but i fitted a 10k variable resistor and messed with it, car went from revving to 2.5k to 7k with the resistor inline.
measured the resistance with the multimeter and will do the hard resistor wiring now.
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As is already mentioned above the shunt resistor is not soldered inline (series) but across the sensor (parallel).
To quote someone more knowledgeable on the subject than me:
The purpose of the shunt is to change what would be a high impedance input in to a low impedance input. One that the relatively low output impedance VR sensor can still easily drive, but that induced noise cannot significantly drive.
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Apr 29, 2019 19:21:31 GMT
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i put it in parallel and it didnt do anything. So i asked again on the microsquirt forums and they said on the megasuqirt they wire it in series, so try it and i did and it worked.
I'm not an electrician, i only know that doing that change worked.
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Apr 30, 2019 10:55:17 GMT
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Megamanual also suggests putting a resistor inline, so that's probably the right way to go for their VR circuit.
I use a MAX9926 VR conditioner IC myself and there the shunt is put in parallel when needed (need to keep noise spikes under the
supply voltage level for those IC's).
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Apr 30, 2019 17:16:10 GMT
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how come you use the conditioner? what does it do that is different?
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Apr 30, 2019 19:27:59 GMT
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It's made specifically for the purpose of conditioning VR signals.. less fiddly and more reliable than the MS circuit.
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