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I’ve been offered a Daimler 250 v8 for what I think is a good price. It’s a project needing a little bit of tlc here and there and it looks pretty tidy in the pictures I’ve been sent. Needs the dash putting back together and the carbs fitting and a little bit of a going over. Question is are they a good car to sort out? Underneath is solid and according to the mot check it’s only failed on silly items like dust covers on ball joints and the odd bulb here and there.
Give me some inspiration please as I need a project to get my teeth into again.
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Go do it and now - most parts are available - very, very nice engine when sorted - I think that they are well underrated & under-priced has a classic when compared to its Jaguar stablemate - can look slightly complex when you compare it the basics of a mini etc but these are a proper luxury classic and can only escalate in value.
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,189
Club RR Member Number: 170
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Daimler 250 v8 opinions ChasR
@chasr
Club Retro Rides Member 170
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I say do it. Parts are expensive, but then every car has some pricey parts. I'm sure I've sold half of the cars I own (and debated selling a car I currently own due to it! as a result of this I reckon. They do drop dead gorgeous! As long as you know what you are walking into, go ahead  . |
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sonus
Europe
Posts: 1,386
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I love the Daimler V8 in my TVR. Currently building a 2.8 liter fuel injected fast road engine which I hope will make around 240bhp  Try the forum on dloc.co.uk for friendly help |
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Current
1968 TVR VIXEN S1 V8 Prototype
2004 TVR T350C
2017 BMW 340i
Previous
BMW 325d E91LCI - sold
Alfa Romeo GTV - sold
Citroen AX GT - at the breakers
Ford Puma 1.7 - sold
Volvo V50 2.0d - sold
MGB GT - wrecked by fire
MG ZT 1.8T - sold
VW E-golf Electric - sold
Mini Countryman 1.6D -sold
Land Rover Discovery TD5 - sold
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Yep, belting car with a very good engine but prices are nowhere near the bigger engined Mk II Jaguars. Autos outnumber the manuals by a considerable margin which might make manuals more desirable. I'd agree with comments about prices generally being on the ascendant. I had flagged this one up for a friend only a day ago as an apparently sound example for sensible money; www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C1038771 (£16½K) |
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sonus
Europe
Posts: 1,386
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There is a stunning dark green car for sale on one of the Daimler 250 V8 facebook groups
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Current
1968 TVR VIXEN S1 V8 Prototype
2004 TVR T350C
2017 BMW 340i
Previous
BMW 325d E91LCI - sold
Alfa Romeo GTV - sold
Citroen AX GT - at the breakers
Ford Puma 1.7 - sold
Volvo V50 2.0d - sold
MGB GT - wrecked by fire
MG ZT 1.8T - sold
VW E-golf Electric - sold
Mini Countryman 1.6D -sold
Land Rover Discovery TD5 - sold
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sonus
Europe
Posts: 1,386
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Current
1968 TVR VIXEN S1 V8 Prototype
2004 TVR T350C
2017 BMW 340i
Previous
BMW 325d E91LCI - sold
Alfa Romeo GTV - sold
Citroen AX GT - at the breakers
Ford Puma 1.7 - sold
Volvo V50 2.0d - sold
MGB GT - wrecked by fire
MG ZT 1.8T - sold
VW E-golf Electric - sold
Mini Countryman 1.6D -sold
Land Rover Discovery TD5 - sold
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v8ian
Posted a lot
Posts: 3,756
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Majestic Major v8 can be made to fit, from 2.5 to 4.5 in one go, 😁
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Atmo V8 Power . No slicks , No gas + No bits missing . Doing it in style.
Austin A35van, very different------- but still doing it in style, going to be a funmoble
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All sounds good just got to go look at it now , bit of a treck it’s about 115 miles from Bristol. Unless anyone lives in the so postcode and would take a look at it for me lol.
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It sounds like a worthwhile project. My advice is look for rust. Mk2s rust for fun (& the 250 is a Mk2 with a different engine) - while they are built like the Forth Bridge, because they were the first monocoque cars that Jaguar built (well the Mk1 was but the Mk2 is fundamentally the same) they have all sorts of rust traps and double and triple skinned areas which rot away and are very difficult to repair without cutting away sound metal to get to the rot. When I bought my Mk2 there were a few areas of rust I could see but the important areas were sound and it looked solid underneath - I have since found various bodged repairs which have resulted in some fairly major bodywork. The particular areas which rot are: The front "crows feet" outriggers which stick out in front of the front wheels, the bulkhead and the areas where the rear leaf-springs are attached, but they rust everywhere! All panel joints are lead loaded which presents its own challenges. You can buy pretty much all the panels but they aren't cheap. Good luck with it - they are lovely cars, but can be a money pit (ask me how I know  ) |
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Old Fords never die they just go sideways
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Thank you for the advice , going to look at it soon so I know roughly what I’m looking for now.
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