ChasR
RR Helper
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Club RR Member Number: 170
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Jan 21, 2019 20:56:38 GMT
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Right, my front timing chain cover seal is leaking on the W124 and TBH I need to change it. The procedure from what I can see looks straightforward except one thing ; stopping the seal from rolling over or ripping as the timing cover is put back onto the engine. Some people recommend greasing the seal, others say to trim the seal to aid assembly. My question to you folk here, is, how I can not destroy the new seal when I refit it? I guess one way is to remove the dowel pin but I'm semi stumped, but I cannot leave it as it is either! So, fire away folks  . I think mine has the M104.980 engine. It's definitely an M104 however . |
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Last Edit: Jan 21, 2019 20:57:12 GMT by ChasR
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,189
Club RR Member Number: 170
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Last Edit: Jan 22, 2019 17:03:23 GMT by ChasR
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Jan 22, 2019 11:34:32 GMT
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It is easier to remove the dowel pin, or you will spend hours trying to get it to sit right on the gasket. Also be aware that the gasket must have sealer applied at both ends as there is a gap between it and the block face.
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1988 Mercedes w124 superturbo diesel 508hp
1996 Mercedes s124 e300 diesel wagon
1990 BMW E30 V8 M60 powered!
1999 BMW E46 323ci project car
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,189
Club RR Member Number: 170
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Jan 22, 2019 17:02:24 GMT
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It is easier to remove the dowel pin, or you will spend hours trying to get it to sit right on the gasket. Also be aware that the gasket must have sealer applied at both ends as there is a gap between it and the block face. I did debate removing the dowel pin. Does it affect the cover alignment much (i.e by the cam cover) or do the bolts do a reasomably good job? I take it a drill bit will get the dowel out? The sealer I was aware of and that the bottom right corner is a weak sealing spot on M104s. What sealant do you recommend? I was going to use Permatex Grey. I've heard Mercedes stuff is the best but it's pricey at £40 for 100ml! |
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Jan 22, 2019 18:11:43 GMT
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It is easier to remove the dowel pin, or you will spend hours trying to get it to sit right on the gasket. Also be aware that the gasket must have sealer applied at both ends as there is a gap between it and the block face. I did debate removing the dowel pin. Does it affect the cover alignment much (i.e by the cam cover) or do the bolts do a reasomably good job? I take it a drill bit will get the dowel out? The sealer I was aware of and that the bottom right corner is a weak sealing spot on M104s. What sealant do you recommend? I was going to use Permatex Grey. I've heard Mercedes stuff is the best but it's pricey at £40 for 100ml! The dowel pin is a tight fit into the cover. The best way is to fit the upper cover with the bolts loose, then fit the dowel through it, and tighten the bolts after that. The dowel pin itself is threaded for an m5/m6 bolt, so you can make your own small slide hammer with a length of threaded rod and a heavy socket. A few whacks will see it out, but you need to remove the chain tesioner before you do this. I use Wurth super rtv for most jobs like this, not cheap but it wont leak.  Before you do the job are you sure that it isnt the head gasket itself that is leaking? The head gasket was modified because of a weekness around the front oilway, if you have an original gasket it may well be the cause. Your engine will be a m104.994 but it affects all of them. |
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1988 Mercedes w124 superturbo diesel 508hp
1996 Mercedes s124 e300 diesel wagon
1990 BMW E30 V8 M60 powered!
1999 BMW E46 323ci project car
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,189
Club RR Member Number: 170
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Jan 22, 2019 18:21:56 GMT
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I'll be honest, I'm quietly hoping it isn't the HG.
I figured that for £30-40 plus a few hours labour it was worth chancing the timing cover gasket as it is damp around the front as well.
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Jan 22, 2019 18:33:27 GMT
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Sorry chap, not something that I have experience with.
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Jan 22, 2019 19:18:22 GMT
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I'll be honest, I'm quietly hoping it isn't the HG. I figured that for £30-40 plus a few hours labour it was worth chancing the timing cover gasket as it is damp around the front as well. No reason not to, the gasket will be dried out and leaking anyway so your only a few hours down. |
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1988 Mercedes w124 superturbo diesel 508hp
1996 Mercedes s124 e300 diesel wagon
1990 BMW E30 V8 M60 powered!
1999 BMW E46 323ci project car
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Jan 23, 2019 10:21:02 GMT
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Carat 3.6 has my vote. I've used the same on my front cover. I have an issue with my crank seal, but that's normal on the 16v. |
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,189
Club RR Member Number: 170
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Jan 23, 2019 19:39:04 GMT
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So, to go about this, I take it the following will do the trick after I've set the engine to TDC
1) Remove the ancillaries (airbox assembly with crossover pipe, spark plug cover, ignition system, and wiring harness above the cam cover
2) Remove the cam cover
3) Remove the auxiliary belt and water pipe ; partially draining the cooling system before attacking it
4) Remove the upper timing chain cover
5) Remove the timing chain tensioner at the side of the block
5) Remove the dowel pin, whilst holding the idler tensioner
7) Put the above to one side
8) Clean all of the mating surfaces. Apply sealant to the head to cover mating faces, paying attention to the bottom corners
9) Clean the seal valley and fit the new seal
Then
10) Refit the timing chain cover, being careful with the upper chain guide, along with a new water seal at the cylinder head to timing cover face
11) While having the idler tensioner in place, insert the dowel and drive it home with either a hammer or a drift
12) Refit the tensioner, putting in a new wash, then the tensioner body, then the thrust pin and detent spring or clip into the tensioner housing. Then install the spring filler pin a new seal and the screw plug
13) Refit the belt, water pipe, coolant, cam cover torqued to spec, and ancillaries, and then wait for the sealant to dry off.
Sound about right?
The other way I was going to cheat was with some Acetate sheet about 0.5mm thick, lubed up with oil along with the seal, and then sliding the cover back into place, only withdrawing the Acetate sheet once the cover is home.
I may well get a manual. Annoyingly, I handed over the Haynes manual to the bloke who bought my 250D! Arrrrrgh! What a tool!
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Last Edit: Jan 23, 2019 19:40:17 GMT by ChasR
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. I think mine has the M104.980 engine. It's definitely an M104 however 
