|
|
|
Hi,
I’m planning on putting the engine, gearbox, radiator, and a couple of other bits from a mk1 MX5 into my Super Minx. The donor car is still in use for a month or two - is there any good reason why I would want to wait to remove the engine, gearbox, radiator etc from the minx now?
Basically I’ve never done it before and I can imagine there’s a hundred traps I could fall in to, so if anyone’s got any advice... hit me with it!
I’m kind of planning to start removing everything I can take out on my own, like the radiator, start labelling up wiring, get seats etc out to make space maybe the dash also, then get some mates involved to pull the engine and pretty much get the car ready. Measure some stuff up once there’s more space to investigate things like the column shift linkage, how I’m going to handle the pedal situation (like whether I use the original pedal or try and bring them over from the 5) and so on.
Good idea? Any tips?
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Nov 10, 2018 10:45:39 GMT
|
Anything you need to know about stripping an MX5 with photos, details and discussion can be found on the Mev forum as they are the donor for the Exocet kit.
I would say get right on it, - best to strip and get the Minx bits stored and out of the way before stripping the donor. You will need at least 3 car spaces. Though the body tub can be removed from the rolling base on the MX5 - strip and scrap that will free up space (local MX5 racers might want it).
If you want an easy life re-use the MX5 electrics - make sure you label them all with labels that will not fall off - or become unreadable after a year in the garage.
|
|
Last Edit: Nov 10, 2018 10:46:08 GMT by wightfug
|
|
|
|
Nov 10, 2018 11:19:12 GMT
|
The plan was to basically run everything electrics wise from the MX, and just connect it up to lights etc. I think I will try and use the instruments from the MX5 or possibly get one of the little digital dashboards. Space I might struggle with. My garage is at the bottom of the garden with the main door facing out into a sort of yard that's shared between 6 garages. Next door have a one car sized area in the corner that they don't use and I'm sure they'll let me occupy it short term, but what I really want to do is get the Minx ready to take it, then actually try and get the MX5 engine out and in to the Minx as quickly as possible, then ditch them MX5 as quick as I can. I'll take a look on the MEV forum, cheers Might start pulling stuff out of the Minx today, but as I said, limited for space... maybe some of the stuff will have to wait til after Christmas and go on a tarp in the spare room!
|
|
|
|
|
|
Nov 10, 2018 11:33:25 GMT
|
Basics first. Measure to check if it will fit. Sump position. Similar? Relates to steering clearance as well. Gear lever. From memory the MX5 lever is a looooong way back. Can it be modded if need be. Plan NOT to mod the bodyshell.
|
|
Proton Jumbuck-deceased :-( 2005 Kia Sorento the parts hauling heap V8 Humber Hawk 1948 Standard12 pickup 1953 Pop build (wifey's BIVA build).
|
|
|
|
Nov 10, 2018 12:28:02 GMT
|
As above, once you cut the bodyshell you are into biva retest - not good ! Look at the build thread by Hillmanjames - he put an mx5 lump into his hunter (which is based on a minx) Mx5 is a small lump so I guess no bulkhead mods needed but the gearlever needs thinking about. If you're lucky the minx shell will already have a gearlever hole with a blanking plate you can just remove. Strip *all* electrics off the mx5 donor, ecus, harness, connectors - anything you might need. Will it run without the factory exhaust & sensors? Abs etc ?? The mx5 is a great engine but is it suited to your minx? Light revvy engine to replace the old low-down torque engine? Let us know how you get on
|
|
|
|
|
|
Nov 10, 2018 12:50:49 GMT
|
Basics first. Measure to check if it will fit. Sump position. Similar? Relates to steering clearance as well. Gear lever. From memory the MX5 lever is a looooong way back. Can it be modded if need be. Plan NOT to mod the bodyshell. As above, once you cut the bodyshell you are into biva retest - not good ! Look at the build thread by Hillmanjames - he put an mx5 lump into his hunter (which is based on a minx) Mx5 is a small lump so I guess no bulkhead mods needed but the gearlever needs thinking about. If you're lucky the minx shell will already have a gearlever hole with a blanking plate you can just remove. Strip *all* electrics off the mx5 donor, ecus, harness, connectors - anything you might need. Will it run without the factory exhaust & sensors? Abs etc ?? The mx5 is a great engine but is it suited to your minx? Light revvy engine to replace the old low-down torque engine? Let us know how you get on So the sump position is similar yes, the front beam type arrangement on the super minx is crazy far forward, and the MX5 sump looks to be quite far back. Engine bay wise... it’s going to be a real squeeze but I think it’s doable. I think. Biggest concern is will the chunky steering box get in the way, I think possibly and I’m not really too sure how to be sure, also what to do about it if it does interfere. I think I will need very low profile fans, but I think the radiator itself will fit almost exactly where it needs to go. The mounts, from what I had heard, work. At least in the avenger. However the mounts in the super minx bay are very far towards the front, and they’re very far towards the back on the ‘5, so I’ll have to get some mounts made up somehow. The engine bay is a few inches shorter than the MX5 bay, and the MX5 bay is quite full, however quite a lot of that space is taken up by the very big air intake system. I am hoping I can shorten and relocate the large front pipe, however there is an airflow meter involved so I will have to look into that. Carb setup would eliminate that problem, but it wasn’t really what I was looking to do. I went for a super early MX5 to try and simplify wiring, it has no ABS, no immobiliser, planning to take the ignition barrel and wiring from it too, basically the entire loom as you say and just run the necessary wiring for lights and stuff. Exhaust I hadn’t thought about at all! but I don’t think it should be a problem, I am planning on having an exhaust made up to from the MX5 manifold back so if there is anything I should be able to accommodate it hopefully? From weight information, the Minx is 1016kg and the MX5 without options is 980kg, so I reckon I should be good. The MX5 donor is an auto (as is the Minx) and it’s a bit harder to find info on them but it seems that it’s either de-tuned or at least re-tuned for more torque on the automatic. I am also hoping that can help with the gear stick problem, the minx is column shift and the linkage goes down to the side of the transmission and the auto box in the MX5 has a similar linkage that goes down the side. Hoping to make it work. The minx does have a blanking plate though where the manual would have a shifter. I have 100% bitten off more than I can chew here, but I knew hat going in and I’m planning on learning as I go. The car is garaged so I can shut the door on it and have some time away from it when I need to. it’s really difficult to try and eyeball/measure with the engines in the bays. I feel like it can go but I’m not sure how to be certain. I wonder if I should strip the minx bay, get some real solid measurements and then compare them to info about the MX5 engine which I can actually get online. If I realise it’s not going to go, I guess I would overhaul the Minx engine instead.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Nov 10, 2018 13:29:15 GMT
|
Lots to think about Fans. I fitted a pair of electric ones in front of the rad with a super cheap Clixon stat. Engine mounts. Hunter etc use the same engine as yours but the mounts go down from the middle of the block onto the x-member, yours are on the front engine plate? , maybe copy a hunter setup for fitting the mx5 ?
|
|
Last Edit: Nov 10, 2018 13:30:39 GMT by nomad
|
|
|
|
Nov 10, 2018 14:40:07 GMT
|
Lots to think about Fans. I fitted a pair of electric ones in front of the rad with a super cheap Clixon stat. Engine mounts. Hunter etc use the same engine as yours but the mounts go down from the middle of the block onto the x-member, yours are on the front engine plate? , maybe copy a hunter setup for fitting the mx5 ? That's right, visible here: And the MX5 mount, while looking very similar, is way back here: I guess the answer is to put a mount to what, the frame rail?
|
|
|
|
|
|
Nov 10, 2018 17:47:34 GMT
|
I don't know how different the 1.6 is to the 1.8 in physical size - I am guessing they are identical ? But you can see where they are from my sandrail mounts (this is a 1.8 from a mk 2.5) Note that the mounts are angled at about 45degs
The mounts look like this - but may be different for my later car
|
|
Last Edit: Nov 10, 2018 17:55:19 GMT by wightfug
|
|
|
|
Nov 10, 2018 19:57:43 GMT
|
Engine mounts. Hunter etc use the same engine as yours but the mounts go down from the middle of the block onto the x-member. I guess the answer is to put a mount to what, the frame rail? Edit - see the hunter build thread I'm my sig below for engine bay photos, some with the engine out
|
|
Last Edit: Nov 10, 2018 20:02:42 GMT by nomad
|
|
|
|
|
Nov 10, 2018 20:34:13 GMT
|
I don't know how different the 1.6 is to the 1.8 in physical size - I am guessing they are identical ? But you can see where they are from my sandrail mounts (this is a 1.8 from a mk 2.5) Note that the mounts are angled at about 45degs The mounts look like this - but may be different for my later car I guess the answer is to put a mount to what, the frame rail? Edit - see the hunter build thread I'm my sig below for engine bay photos, some with the engine out Useful pictures, thanks. The mounts look basically the same, they're just much too far forward! Look like going in from the frame rails will probably work, shame it won't go on the original mounts as they look very similar and on HillmanJames' hunter he just dropped it in as far as I remember! I'll have another look through your thread now and see what I can see.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Nov 10, 2018 22:14:40 GMT
|
If at all possible I prefer to make new engine mount brackets to line up witb the ones on the car. I make them from 4mm steel plate, on mx5 engine you have bosses on the block for the ac copmressor and manifold support nearer the front which could be used.
|
|
|
|
froggy
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,099
|
|
|
Your car has a starting and charging circuit already so no need to make more work than necessary . When I swapped the Volvo motor into my camper I pared back the Volvo engine loom to two relays to power up the ecu / injectors and fuel pump and kept the cars start / charge and rad fan switch . The only tricky part was grafting the internal parts of an electronic speedo into the case of the dash . Transferring the whole loom is a task on its own .
|
|
|
|
|
|
Nov 11, 2018 15:06:55 GMT
|
Your car has a starting and charging circuit already so no need to make more work than necessary . When I swapped the Volvo motor into my camper I pared back the Volvo engine loom to two relays to power up the ecu / injectors and fuel pump and kept the cars start / charge and rad fan switch . The only tricky part was grafting the internal parts of an electronic speedo into the case of the dash . Transferring the whole loom is a task on its own . I'm going to have to relocate the battery to the boot, and also my ignition barrel is worn out to the point the key sometimes falls out while you're driving! So I was going to see if I could get the MX5 barrel mounted, it's in the dash so I reckon I might be able to. I would like to keep the instruments but not sure if it's just easier to blank them off and stick a race dash or the MX5 instruments in, they're just a flat PCB and I could make up something to house them. Plan is to remove the entire loom from the MX5 and use the parts I need. I read that removing some parts can cause unexpected issues so will have to look into what should be kept even if it's not used, and see if I can house the extraneous wiring somewhere. I guess there's not as much as involved in it as in a more modern, feature-packed car but I'm sure there's still plenty in there.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Nov 11, 2018 15:35:02 GMT
|
Mine had an immobiliser (and still does), air bags, seat heaters and all the rest as it was a fully spec'd car. It was not difficult to thin the loom - just make sure you get the right diagram. I stuck with the MX5 instruments because frankly nothing else I could afford looked that good. The only issue I had was that the main relay shared the earth with the headlights and I built my own headlight circuit so chopped it - To be honest if you have a bit of room and a more basic donor, and the new configuration is battery in the back/engine in the front like the MX5 I would see if you can just run the whole lot. don't underestimate the amount of work in getting lights etc to work properly Loom during and after
|
|
Last Edit: Nov 11, 2018 15:41:58 GMT by wightfug
|
|
|
|
Nov 12, 2018 13:06:24 GMT
|
Loads to think about. The wiring side of things is definitely going to be interesting >_<
My fiancée’s sister’s other half works at a rod shop and is good and handy, so I’m hoping to get him on board to help me get the engine in (and loads of other stuff). Looking forward to it now, just got to see how long the other half wants to use the MX5 for now.
Cheers all
|
|
|
|
|
|
Nov 12, 2018 18:45:29 GMT
|
pfff no chance of getting that back - especially if it already has a name.... Might as well start looking for another one now
|
|
Last Edit: Nov 12, 2018 18:46:39 GMT by wightfug
|
|
|
|
Nov 12, 2018 21:07:12 GMT
|
I’ve got good news on that front, neighbours son just reversed into the rear quarter of the MX5! Maybe that’ll make her look a bit harder for a new car
|
|
|
|
|
|
Nov 12, 2018 22:35:15 GMT
|
I'm curious - did he hit the mx5 and is now going to pay for repairs, or did you pay him then he hit the poor mx5 ? Ps. Put the engine mounts onto the x-member if you can, saves interfering with the chassis of the car
|
|
|
|