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Wanting to get my herald sitting a bit lower. Is there anything else I can do other then the lowering block on the back
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Reversing certain springs was what we did back in the 80s' cant remember which ones though.
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Vitesse 6 Saloon
Vitesse Mk2 Convertible
BMW R1150GS
VW Amarok
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You can change the transverse leaf spring on the rear and shorten the front coil springs. Did this on mine in the early 80's, stances the chamber big time though.
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steveg
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,563
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It's pretty much all you can do apart from getting the spring re-shaped. It was possible to get swing springs, which are similar to those fitted on the last Spitfires and GT6's but made to suit the weight of the Herald. Combined with a bigger diameter from anti-roll bar are said to help stop the rear wheels tucking under while cornering.
Another option would be to fit the improved but more complicated Mk2 Vitesse/GT6 suspension. This was limited by the rubber driveshaft joint fitted but you can get a CV joint shaft to replace it.
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Dec 21, 2018 10:11:02 GMT
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At the rear the options are:
- Fit a lowering block with the original spring.1/2”, 3/4” & 1” available, the last two needing longer studs.
- Turn the top 3 or 4 spring leaves over. Bit hit or miss but cheap.
- Fit an alternative spring. The swing spring from a later Spitfire or GT6 is popular as this arrangement also helps a lot with the “tuck-under” problem. Downside is that these are not really strong enough for the Herald, especially if you carry passengers or luggage and give a very low ride height and choppy ride due to bump-stop action. The matching thicker ARB from a Spitfire is also needed.
- It is possible to redrill the vertical links to lower the the spring attachment point on them. This needs to be done properly with the new holes re-enforced by welding thick washers.
Which ever way you go, lowering will cause negative camber on the back an the amount is directly linked to how low you go. A little is good but anything over 2-3 degrees starts to affect tyre contact with the road, loosing grip and causing increased tyre wear. You also make the suspension work in a region where there is more track change which makes the rear end feel more nervous and twitchy (passed on to driver!). Rear tracking needs doing after any lowering.
At the front it, it is either shorter springs or new dampers with adjustable spring seats. Camber and tracking must be reset afterwards.
Nick
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1967 Triumph Vitesse convertible (old friend)
1996 Audi A6 2.5 TDI Avant (still durability testing)
1972 GT6 Mk3 (Restored after loong rest & getting the hang of being a car again)
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