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Oct 30, 2018 13:33:31 GMT
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Hi
Anyone got any good tips for stopping storage rust on a car I'm slowly doing up? I tried buffing down with Knot wire brush, rust treat, and then primer that does not absorb moisture but it's still reappearing. As I'm doing it bit by bit I don't want to underseal one bit at a time, rather go round it all in one go.
I'm thinking though that is only solution but worry even with underseal it will come back through. The anti moisture primer has worked better but still some bits it comes back.
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Last Edit: Oct 30, 2018 13:34:09 GMT by grifter01
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djefk
Part of things
Posts: 844
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Oct 30, 2018 21:19:52 GMT
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Others can chime in on what you’re asking, but to me it sounds like you need to pay attention to why there is so much moisture in your storage space and take steps to reduce it.
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Oct 30, 2018 21:28:00 GMT
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underseal wont do much if you mean the shultz curse word, you need some proper paint on there to seal it in on top of the primer, even if its not the right colour anything close will be better than nothing.
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Last Edit: Oct 30, 2018 21:28:45 GMT by welshpug
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Oct 30, 2018 21:41:37 GMT
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 my plan is hydrate 80 and then 2k epoxy, even if you just brush the epoxy on! Hp bodies do a good one. |
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Oct 30, 2018 23:06:20 GMT
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When I had my mk2 Cortina shot last, I took advice from a guy who restores Lotus Cortina's and E types. He said to epoxy it immediately but make sure you put plenty on using a large nozzle priming gun. I did this and it's been in just the Epoxy for a year and a half as the first painter started the bodywork but could not finish it for personal reasons. The only place there are a few specs of rash is where it has been sanded thin-almost back to bare metal.
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Last Edit: Oct 30, 2018 23:07:27 GMT by jonsey
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tristanh
Part of things
Routinely bewildered
Posts: 990 
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My mate does some resto work, he welded a section of inner wing into a mk1 Golf, painted on some Owatrol oil and left if outside for several months last winter, in rain and snow. Not even the bare welded steel rusted.
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Whether you believe you can, or you cannot, you're probably right.
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v8ian
Posted a lot
Posts: 3,756
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Oils might work well but I would be wary of getting it behind seams, because it will be a pig to get from behind and could cause major paint problems when final painting....
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Atmo V8 Power . No slicks , No gas + No bits missing . Doing it in style.
Austin A35van, very different------- but still doing it in style, going to be a funmoble
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As above you need to find and try and cure why your storage area is so damp if its rusting back that soon. It might be a really damp atmosphere issue but it could also be that the rust treatment you are using is rubbish. I found Kurust actualy speeds up the rusting on panels. I only use BiltHamber Hydrate 80 nowadays and it stops the oxidization dead.
I have a test panel of steel sheet that i tried different rust inhibitors on years back. I cleaned a strip with a grinding disc, a strip with a wire wheel, and left a strip with surface rust. Then tried products so they all went down over all 3 strips. The steel was then left in my garden and checked every now and then. The Kurust didn't last a week, the loctite one lasted nearly a month, the finnigans primer (pink one) was showing rust after 3 months, the Hydrate 80 is still good (5 or so years later!!!)
I also did a section with BiltHambers zinc primer and that has a little bit of rust forming around the edge of the painted area but the centre is still good.
That is why i only use BiltHamber stuff on everything i do and nothing has been an issue so far.
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Ive used ACF 50 on the underside and especially bolts/brackets etc, of my Transit and the Datsun, excellent stuff, how easy it is to remove for painting tho, i couldn't say.
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'76' Datsun 260z 2+2 UK RHD.... owned since '95' none of that rust free LHD import shenanigans!
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tristanh
Part of things
Routinely bewildered
Posts: 990
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As above you need to find and try and cure why your storage area is so damp if its rusting back that soon. It might be a really damp atmosphere issue but it could also be that the rust treatment you are using is rubbish. I found Kurust actualy speeds up the rusting on panels. I only use BiltHamber Hydrate 80 nowadays and it stops the oxidization dead. I have a test panel of steel sheet that i tried different rust inhibitors on years back. I cleaned a strip with a grinding disc, a strip with a wire wheel, and left a strip with surface rust. Then tried products so they all went down over all 3 strips. The steel was then left in my garden and checked every now and then. The Kurust didn't last a week, the loctite one lasted nearly a month, the finnigans primer (pink one) was showing rust after 3 months, the Hydrate 80 is still good (5 or so years later!!!) I also did a section with BiltHambers zinc primer and that has a little bit of rust forming around the edge of the painted area but the centre is still good. That is why i only use BiltHamber stuff on everything i do and nothing has been an issue so far. That's a brilliantly useful post!! |
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Whether you believe you can, or you cannot, you're probably right.
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Oct 31, 2018 10:09:04 GMT
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As above you need to find and try and cure why your storage area is so damp if its rusting back that soon. It might be a really damp atmosphere issue but it could also be that the rust treatment you are using is rubbish. I found Kurust actualy speeds up the rusting on panels. I only use BiltHamber Hydrate 80 nowadays and it stops the oxidization dead. I have a test panel of steel sheet that i tried different rust inhibitors on years back. I cleaned a strip with a grinding disc, a strip with a wire wheel, and left a strip with surface rust. Then tried products so they all went down over all 3 strips. The steel was then left in my garden and checked every now and then. The Kurust didn't last a week, the loctite one lasted nearly a month, the finnigans primer (pink one) was showing rust after 3 months, the Hydrate 80 is still good (5 or so years later!!!) I also did a section with BiltHambers zinc primer and that has a little bit of rust forming around the edge of the painted area but the centre is still good. That is why i only use BiltHamber stuff on everything i do and nothing has been an issue so far. I am a professional vehicle restorer & Bilt Hamber's Hydrate 80 has been at the foundation of every restoration that has left my workshop - never had a problem with it - but this is secondary to what your real issue is - has other posts to this thread have already indicated - the real problem is the amount of damp / damp air that you have in your storage area |
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Last Edit: Oct 31, 2018 10:09:35 GMT by Deleted
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GJUK
Part of things
Posts: 238
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Oct 31, 2018 10:55:16 GMT
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Kurust is something I've used for a long time - is the Hydrate 80 better than this to apply before paint?
Thanks,
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Valid points about dampness, my garage is leaking slightly, so I need to get that sorted. Not something I can take on at the moment, especially with the weather, as roof needs totally redone. In saying that the primer I put on seems to have held in most places. I'm going to look at re-treating the bits where it's rusting again, and then painting with epoxy mastic on the day of treatment, so it is sealed before it has chance to react again.
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tristanh
Part of things
Routinely bewildered
Posts: 990
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I asked BiltHamber about protecting new metal, it repair sections.
"Hi Tristan,
Much preferred for new metal is electrox zinc rich primer.
All the best
Pete Hamber"
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Whether you believe you can, or you cannot, you're probably right.
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I asked BiltHamber about protecting new metal, it repair sections. "Hi Tristan, Much preferred for new metal is electrox zinc rich primer. All the best Pete Hamber" Good info there thanks. The new repair sections are ok tbh, the bits rusting are original metal that had crust and I'd buffed down, treated and painted. Ideal would be to sandblast it but it's hell of a messy and I need to hire a compressor. |
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GJUK
Part of things
Posts: 238
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Nov 10, 2018 13:39:36 GMT
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Kurust is something I've used for a long time - is the Hydrate 80 better than this to apply before paint? Thanks, Any feedback on the above please guys and gals? Jon |
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Big load of kitty litter, or the damp pots that you put the crystals in.
They work a treat.
The amount they collect over one night is amazing .
I have two in my lockup with my motorbikes and its bone dry. (Old council lockup)
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Stopping storage rustslipngripross
@slipngripross
Club Retro Rides Member 149
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Hi mate one of my sponsors is based in Bristol but can offer various great products for rust prevention. you can rop them a message on their FB page to ask any advice too  www.buzzweld.co.uk/ |
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tristanh
Part of things
Routinely bewildered
Posts: 990
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Big load of kitty litter, or the damp pots that you put the crystals in. They work a treat. The amount they collect over one night is amazing . I have two in my lockup with my motorbikes and its bone dry. (Old council lockup) Dishwasher salt in a basin works too. |
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Whether you believe you can, or you cannot, you're probably right.
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