Tidied up in the garage after Halloween. Put a bunch of screws in the wall and hung all the spanners up out of the way. Also bought a couple of brackets and mounted the loudspeakers up on the wall by the lights to free up some real estate on the bench.
I really do need to finish the cladding and paint in there, looking at that picture...
Anyhow, this does rather represent the point of no return. I am going to start on the bigger parts of this project, tearing out the wiring and replacing it new. That and pulling the engine out to rebuild the gearbox valve body. I may have to reinforce the bench for that...
No, the process is pretty quick. You can't make it go too fast else the plated copper "burns". That is, it hits too rapidly and forms flaky layers that just flake off and are all black.
Also, it likes to plate sharp edges in preference (same reason lightning hits spiky things) so if you've got a mixture of big flat sides and sharp corners you have to find the median sweet spot where it actually deposits on the flat surfaces well without "burning" the sharp bits.
One benefit to this is the sharp corners do get a good covering and are less likely to chip off.
1973 Rover 3500 P6 Auto - 23k miles - All original 1937 Jowett 8 HP Saloon - In many, many pieces 1951 Jowett Jupiter - In more pieces than the 8 HP 1952 Jowett Javelin - In regular use jowett.org/ 1954 Jowett Jupiter - Complete - future restoration project 2000 P38 Range Rover 4.0 SE - Daily / Tow vehicle
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Silver is significantly more reflective yes, but it tarnishes far too easily.
Nickel is a good protective layer and is significantly more reflective than rust. Plus, making electrolyte for copper and nickel is really very easy so that's the route I chose, for that reason- I can buy all I need for not much money at the supermarket in terms of that. I'm going to go to AirGas tonight to see if they have 99% nickel welding rods.