Is this wrench the same as the one I linked to (only with batteries and charger)?
Yes, it's the same one. Very impressive bit of kit. The weight is a minor issue but it does alot very well.
I still use the Kielder for simply speeding up things however. The 894 sound like what the Kielder could have been. What is surprising is that the DeWalt is quieter than the Kielder, even on large torque applications.
was more for the o/p, but i been thinking of getting the R18IW3-0 for taking wheel bolts off, suspension work, just general use, not really made me mind up yet, may be a waste of money for me, as the use would be very little.
I'd read the reviews before commiting.
My Kielder is at that torque and can't undo the wheel nuts however. It must be the breakway torque which is higher than the tightening torque, especially if the fixing hasn't been disturbed for a while.
no way on earth i could justify buying a kielder, may have to be corded for me.
The Ryobi may be fine but I wouldn't want to say anything.
Despite my mixed feelings about the Kielder, it has been an invaluable tool for me, and yes, I did question if I could justify the expenditure. I justified it for two reasons:
-It was my birthday and I figured I would treat myself. I hadn't done for a while. -I figured out that in labour I'd have paid someone £1k for the work I did on the Escort RS Turbo; if I go back further, some cars like my Stag would be much more. Ouch! With that in mind, I figured I had earned it.
How do I feel now? Well, I still used it. With the lighter weight, I simply used to speed me up, and boy it sped me up alot! Another benefit? In some ways you are less likely to snap bolts, due to less sideways leverage on it. So that's more convenience and decent crap saving moments.
For years I wished I bought the Makita D1002z. The DeWalt is a similar deal. I twould have been nicer if it was lighter, but TBH, it's great having a gun for those jobs were not much else will fix the issue. With my 2CV, I saved £90 on buying a bespoke tool for the wheel bearing removal, or spending an age making one myself man enough to do the job. And it did it much quicker than the £90 tool could have done.
What I am saying is I am quite a bit like yourself in the thought process. I wanted a rattle gun for years, for 'those' jobs. When I got one, I questioned it it was worth it. Now? I probably couldn't live without it. it's used on most jobs on the car simply to really speed things up, and to assist the loosening of stubborn bolts, in addition to the fatigue by using just ratchets.
I have an older model Ryobi One+ impact gun, and havent had any issues so far with not having the grunt to undo bolts/buts. I even used it to whip off the crank pulley bolt on my old Rover V8, and it made short work of it. I regularly use it for wheel nuts/bolts and suspension bolts.
The one thing to be sure of, is get the biggest battery you can. The smaller batteries don't only have shorter run time, they actually result in less power output/grunt. The impact gun is significantly down on power with any of the small included "kit" batteries, so i only use it with a 5ah battery now. I also see they have now released a big boy 9ah battery
I thought I'd provide another update. It's early days for the new toy, but it will give a few of you some idea.
Some of you know that I have a Kielder. For the money it's not too bad. In short:
-It's light. I probably use this around the car alot for this reason. -The rattle action can prevent breaking things off I've noticed. -The batteries last an age -It seems to be built well as well! Maybe not quite as nice as the old man's Makita, but not miles off either.
Now for the not so good news -The torque doesn't seem to be near what Kielder say. On wheels where I have torque up the wheel bolts between 90-120Nm myself (and on the Citroen to 54Nm), it will struggle a little. If they are left for a while it will take a good minute or two of rattling around before it moves. -The rear hub nut on my 2CV is 44m and done to 350Nm. This should be within the realm of the Kielder. It couldn't touch it. -A friend's corded Silverline 350Nm machine seems to have more ease with doing the above than the Kielder. One differance I have noticed is that the Silverline 'builds up the torque in increasing blows. -They're noisy, but that's expected. -At £200, I'm not sure it's the bargain it once people felt it was. At that money, you're into Makita and even Milwaukee territory, which I reckon might be superior. At £160 it was fine.
I know it sounds like I am criticising mine, but I have used mine all over most cars now, as it does speed things up as jiminwatford said.
I have bought a DeWalt DCF899P2 kit. I did wince when buying it, but at that time, I was running out of options. I had tried a wheel bearing retainer to remove on the 2CV
3/4" breaker bar with some tubing on it 1/2" Breaker bar ; it was bending like crazy, so I chickened out. Kielder as above. It didn't touch it, but it couldn't touch the less torqued up hubnut, which the 3/4" bar took off with relative ease. The Dewalt initially wouldn't touch it on the 1st setting. On the second it move it around at a slow and steady pace. The third? It almost wizzed it off but it still struggled ; that retainer was on tight! I've seen Youtube videos of people using some brutal stuff to remove them, and people do sometimes destroy the retainers after struggling to remove them.
So, I've not used it much, but what can I say? -I miss the battery level indicator that my Kielder has -I also miss the lightness! At 3.3kg, it does weigh more. When I picked both up, it didn't seem that obvious mind you. -Wheel bolts are not really a problem anymore -It has a slow torque buildup function -It seems fairly well made, and the LED is as good as the Makita's It's much brighter than the Kielder's which to me now makes a great difference. The light will stay on, which also helps. -It does what it says on the tin. -At £350 it seems pricey. For the above, my only other choice was to give the drum to a specialist, send it off etc. and pay a labour charge on top. But to be fair, it would have saved me a a few trips to various garages in the past, and quite a bit of time. It was also marginally cheaper than the Makita offering, which I initially wanted, or the Milwaukee. I wanted the Milwaukee item, but I couldn't justify £500, I could barely justify £350! It would have saved me a week of going back and forth when I was removing the Merc's crank pulley nut, which is done to 200Nm and then angle tightened a further 90 degrees.
Now, I can do a few jobs I've been putting off mind you. Wheel bearing in the MkIV Mondeo with seized and iffy wheel bearing bolts etc.
The above is a slightly unfair comparison I admit. One is £200, and the other is £350. But the DeWalt has me wondering if I should get rid of the Kielder for a 3/8" drive DeWalt now I have two batteries. But we shall see.
I got Dewalt DFC889 but like you the weight was too much to bear for everyday use, but now they have a mid range device, DCF894? at 1.5kg I swap my one for this, and it takes off FWD hub wheelbearing nuts with easy....My car was 300Nm tightening...so breaking should be higher.
I think considering I have used mine it's too late to swap nel5on .
But TBH, it's slowly proving its worth. It's a big step up from the other one.
Worst case scenario, I could always buy a DCF894 body in the future. I love how this thing has variable speed settings, a superb torch and is untroubled by most things. The wheel bearing retainer on my 2CV was near impossible to remove with a breaker bar. I've seen some pretty epic machinery being used on YouTube to remove them. On setting 2 (just about) and 3, this got it off fine .
It sounds like your DCF894 is way more effective than the Kielder. The Dewalt I have now is far far superior to the Kielder in undoing things. I was going to get a lighter and smaller rattle gun alongside this one and sell the Kielder.