|
|
|
After aqua blasting you do have to go over it again with another blasting to purge the water from it. That's not always made totally clear until you research it yourself.
Diy is ok but wouldn't suit the scale I would be needing, not quite industrial, but commercial anyway.
Mr droop, what acid are you using? What results are you getting with it?
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
For soaking reasonably small stuff, I use citric acid at 10% concentration, and get reasonable results. For bigger stuff I was using electrolytic rust removal because I had an old bath in the front of the shed, and because I wasn't prepared to mix up 30+ gallons of citric acid to dip a subframe in. Part of that is because once the acid gets dirty it seems to get less effective.
Results for both vary, but I've never got around to trying stronger concentrations of acid. I know people who've combined the two, but again without proper comparisons it's difficult to say what is better. I've got some more stuff to clean, but need to wait for better weather as I don't really want to risk it freezing.
For pitted rust spots on the bodywork I was using phosphoric acid - I bought it in the form of a product called "ph Down", sold for hydroponics, but you'd need a better source for any bulk use. I painted it on, agitated with a wire brush, and got some very good results.
Last time I took something to my chrome plater and he talked about acid dipping for rust removal, he said he was using hydrochloric acid, which I haven't tried yet, but mean to at some point.
|
|
|
|
slater
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,390
Club RR Member Number: 78
|
|
|
After aqua blasting you do have to go over it again with another blasting to purge the water from it. That's not always made totally clear until you research it yourself. Diy is ok but wouldn't suit the scale I would be needing, not quite industrial, but commercial anyway. Mr droop, what acid are you using? What results are you getting with it? I'm no expert but when I have done it I've found it hard to dry a shell before it starts to rust and then requires a dust over again with something fine like soda.. In a cabinet it's less issue as you can use solvent insted of plain water I belive..
|
|
|
|
|
|
Mar 12, 2018 23:43:33 GMT
|
Hmm, good point, I'm looking at things that could be contained within a cabinet. A large cabinet though. Not shells - so vapour blasting with solvent then. Hmm.
Vapour blasting ans Aqua blasting are the same thing, right? The words mean different things but they seem to be the same thing in blasting talk.
A perfect example today - sent four wheels to be dipped. One of the staff away to do that and nothing else for at least an hour, plus fuel - and no guarantee of when they will be back, as the guy we use is so busy that lead times are constantly going up, and today I'm told he had wheels stacked out for rows and rows outside of his workshop / unit. There's a market opportunity here y'know...
|
|
|
|
slater
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,390
Club RR Member Number: 78
|
|
Mar 14, 2018 22:57:27 GMT
|
I see vapour blasting or aqua blasting as the 'in cabinet' type where you have a pump circulating a slurry of grit and solvent. I do what I would more term 'wet blasting' where media is dry and is only used the once (and water is added at the nozzle.)
A vapour blaster is a great machine and is on my list for when I find a spare few 1000 but I'm dubious you will make it strip paint from wheels particularly quickly. I would er on the side of bead blasting with a pressure pot type cabinet if you want something that will work efficiently at that. Like I say there's no one process solution to everything.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Probably a bit off topic as it's pretty expensive still - but have you seen laser cleaning? Seems like magic, and so much less mess.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
I have, and it's amazing, and when it's not 50 or 100 grand, I might bring some of it to this little corner.
Like Slater says, there's no one-size-fits-all solution. I'm keen to avoid dusty options, especially as I'd really like to look at cleaning gearboxes, brake calipers, etc. and dry media (grit,sand) are too abrasive and infiltrous (new word!) for that. Wheels will take far too long with any vapour/aqua, so a tank of acid still represents the best solution for that.
Two separate systems then, should see most things answered. We shall see where this goes, thanks for all the info and help so far.
|
|
|
|