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Ooh, lookit you all fancy-like! Fixed lighting, eh? Too posh for carrying a candle up in your teeth while you struggle with dollies, etc eh? It's always good when you have time to reorganise and tidy your storage and work space. Gives you that nice motivation boost for a week or so
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jpr1977
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 656
Club RR Member Number: 18
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Apr 14, 2020 22:27:16 GMT
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Sometimes I have to get inventive One of my neighbours had the bonding letting loose of the rear window on her Audi TT convertible hence it was suffering from water ingress Prepped and new boding applied but had no desire to stand there holding it in place until the bonding cured With one prop on the inside and a modified prop on the outside Problem resolved - drove out the workshop the same afternoon for water ingress testing GN what bonding agent did you use? I need to do some remidial work on a Z3 hood, in the same corner of the rear screen... Thanks in advance Jp
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Sometimes I have to get inventive One of my neighbours had the bonding letting loose of the rear window on her Audi TT convertible hence it was suffering from water ingress Prepped and new boding applied but had no desire to stand there holding it in place until the bonding cured With one prop on the inside and a modified prop on the outside Problem resolved - drove out the workshop the same afternoon for water ingress testing GN what bonding agent did you use? I need to do some remidial work on a Z3 hood, in the same corner of the rear screen... Thanks in advance Jp Just cleaned up either side with solvent / panel wipe and then a careful bead of black tiger seal
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jpr1977
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 656
Club RR Member Number: 18
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Thank you
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I've done similar on my TT hood, though without the clamp arrangement. I used some two-part epoxy adhesive that came from the pound shop that went bust last year, having previously tried other things, and it's held better than the others. I then went around it with some clear sealant, which is 99% waterproof but with one or two little drips - I went to put a bit more on yesterday to try to clear up the last little drip but the tube has gone solid now. It doesn't look perfect, but it seals.
Mine had gone on the drivers side, and the problem there is that if water gets through, one of the control modules is directly below under the shelf, and water ingress is not good for it. Almost as if they'd put it in the worst possible place on purpose.
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Apr 15, 2020 10:05:32 GMT
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Chris Can you still open the door on the (Lane) gable end of the work shop for access or does that block/loose some of the internal storage area? The new enamel signs look great, we only have one of them but it's a rare one apparently.
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Apr 19, 2020 21:12:35 GMT
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Chris Can you still open the door on the (Lane) gable end of the work shop for access or does that block/loose some of the internal storage area? The new enamel signs look great, we only have one of them but it's a rare one apparently. Pete - Side access door is still fine for now but I have think about a possible reconfiguration when the workshop gets extended - I attempted to bid on few signs recently at a specialist online sale but they all went for money well above my budget
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Last Edit: Apr 19, 2020 21:50:45 GMT by Deleted
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Apr 19, 2020 21:35:09 GMT
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Achieved something today that I have been meaning to address for ages To the front of the workshop is a gradient - falls about 500mm over 4 metres Which is proper PITA when I have a non runner on my hands - the gradient / plus the underfoot gravel / plus me on my own is a proper struggle to push anything into the workshop - I'm not feeble but I'm not getting any younger either I end up having to mess about with ratchet straps and a bearer behind the door frame of the under stairs stores in order to jerry rig a winch system - next few motors in are non runners and if I'm not careful I am going to end up doing something awful to my back Hence I purchased one these - its actually a 240v scaffold hoist but it will do what I need it to do Cut & drilled some spreader plates Drilled two holes through the wall and cut some studding to length Bolted the winch to the wall Via the spreader plates on the under stairs stores wall Bolted a ground anchor to the floor in order to return the winch cable to - then added a snatch block to the cable - the hook / snatch block are a little feeble for my liking and I will look into changing them - its only ever going to be pulling something that is free rolling - the feed lead with the 13 amp plug on it is ridiculously short - and this I will extend up to the nearest socket It all hides away nicely Under here - It will only get used a few times a year but it will most certainly be a back saver when it is in use
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Last Edit: Apr 19, 2020 21:51:43 GMT by Deleted
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Nice! I know you like to keep a dust free workshop, so/but it might be worth looking at a winch cover bag thing. I was about to suggest looking on a 4WD site but then I realised that your wife can likely knock something up quicker and cheaper!
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Should make life a lot easier!
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I have a concern Chris, does the motor pull against the block wall? (tension).
Although you have fitted spreader plates they seem to still sit on just the one block, you might end up cracking the wall or even pulling the block from the wall. Is it possible to bolt down into the floor as well/instead? This would be far stronger as it will be in shear.
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eurogranada
Europe
To tinker or not to tinker, that is the question...
Posts: 2,496
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Apr 20, 2020 10:14:17 GMT
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Now it's there you'll probably find more use for it without much effort...
Nice solution and nicely out of the way too.
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Apr 20, 2020 10:33:44 GMT
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I have a concern Chris, does the motor pull against the block wall? (tension). Although you have fitted spreader plates they seem to still sit on just the one block, you might end up cracking the wall or even pulling the block from the wall. Is it possible to bolt down into the floor as well/instead? This would be far stronger as it will be in shear. Mark - Blocks are concrete and not your normal lightweight or hollow blocks - its a loadbearing wall has it takes the RSJ from which the loft floor is suspended - before the winch gets used in any anger there is a length of equal angle that gets welded to the spreader plates and in turn the equal angle gets bolted to the floor - its just that I don't have full access to the under stairs store currently - lots of very large body panels are in the way - Once the completed Javelin is collected at the end of the month I can then clear myself some working space in the workshop and access the store fully - You never know whilst the store is cleared out the workshop WC may well get fitted at the same time (That's been on the cards since we moved here)
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Apr 20, 2020 12:02:32 GMT
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Ah, with the angle welded to the plates & bolted to floor it will be fine. The issue with the wall - load bearing or not is the mortar is the weakest link - the block could possibly just pop out of the mortar if it did not have the backup angle/spreader to the floor.
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Apr 20, 2020 12:33:23 GMT
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Nice job on the winch, once you use it you will wonder why you didn't do it years ago!
Lovely tidy space, puts me to shame!
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Apr 20, 2020 12:52:45 GMT
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Ah, with the angle welded to the plates & bolted to floor it will be fine. The issue with the wall - load bearing or not is the mortar is the weakest link - the block could possibly just pop out of the mortar if it did not have the backup angle/spreader to the floor. I agree with Mark about the single block if you were to weld two lengths of 1" angle across both plate so you spreads the load across say three blocks and the floor would be better.
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teaboy
Posted a lot
Make tea, not war.
Posts: 1,958
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Apr 20, 2020 18:12:24 GMT
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Ah, with the angle welded to the plates & bolted to floor it will be fine. The issue with the wall - load bearing or not is the mortar is the weakest link - the block could possibly just pop out of the mortar if it did not have the backup angle/spreader to the floor. I agree with Mark about the single block if you were to weld two lengths of 1" angle across both plate so you spreads the load across say three blocks and the floor would be better. I don’t think we should underestimate Grumps, I’m sure he knows what he’s doing.
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Apr 20, 2020 18:19:37 GMT
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^^ not always, it's easy to be so focused on a job that you don't see the bigger picture. Other eyes often see what the original poster (not GN in particular - but on any thread) does not.
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teaboy
Posted a lot
Make tea, not war.
Posts: 1,958
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Apr 20, 2020 18:22:58 GMT
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^^ not always, it's easy to be so focused on a job that you don't see the bigger picture. Other eyes often see what the original poster (not GN in particular - but on any thread) does not. I quite agree with you BP, I also thought it was a bit dodgy as it was.
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Apr 21, 2020 20:16:43 GMT
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Following the lead taken by Mr blackpopracing I ordered these And then fitted them - fortunately I could still access the cables has these had been run in the eves which were not over boarded This now gives me the ability to switch the outside workshop lamps on / off (these two at the front and a third one adjacent to the side door at the rear of the workshop) - Remotely with this And it works from the top of the lane too - this will make life so much easier - being able to pull up with the trailer behind me and then then just click the lights on to assist with backing down the unlit lane - likewise when leaving the workshop on the dark evenings - I don't have to go across the yard any more to trigger the PIR on the floodlamp on the rear of the house then head back to the workshop to turn the workshop outside lighting off There is a phase 2 lighting project once I get on with the patio & fencing later this year - that will see low level lighting installed down the side of the hedgerow for the upper section of the lane making it even easier on the dark nights - again I will link this to remote switching
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