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Advice on camber adjustment fr€$h&m1nt¥
@freshandminty
Club Retro Rides Member 99
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Sept 22, 2017 11:20:46 GMT
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Hi all I’ve bought a spare pair of front hubs / suspension arms / stub axles for the Acty - mainly so I can modify the clamp that the strut drops into to make it more secure. But before I fit it I thought i could modify it to give some negative camber to give me a bit more margin for lows. I’ve read about using washers and camber shims on the net before but I’d like confirmation of where they need to go on my set up please....  I’m thinking remove the 4 bolts in the square formation here...  Then get an aluminium shim plate made which is wider at the bottom to suit required camber adjustment and fit it where the red arrow is - i.e between the brake drum back plate and the suspension clamp and arm...  Then bolt it back together with longer bolts. Couple of things I’m thinking is whether that’s in the right place but also if I’m fitting an angled plate in then the original bolts won’t go right through the holes into the original threads will they? So do I need separate bolts that hold the shim in place into the original threads and then separate offset threads in the shim to bolt the drum back plate in place? A bit like how wheel adaptors work? Or can the drum back plate be machines out a little to give a flat face for the bolts to go through? Appreciate any advice / alternative solutions / suggestions. Cheers Phil  |
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Sept 22, 2017 11:37:22 GMT
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angled washers under the heads, the steel backplate isn't thick enough to have a bit machined off, also allows varying camber settings to be used.
the first can be done if you make the plate thicker and increase the track width, also free lowering possible if you move the bolt holes upwards.
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Advice on camber adjustment fr€$h&m1nt¥
@freshandminty
Club Retro Rides Member 99
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Sept 22, 2017 11:42:50 GMT
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angled washers under the heads, the steel backplate isn't thick enough to have a bit machined off, also allows varying camber settings to be used. the first can be done if you make the plate thicker and increase the track width, also free lowering possible if you move the bolt holes upwards. Interesting - angled washers are a new one on me. So setup would be like this, with angled washers compensating for the wedge to make the bolts straight...  Appreciate your help. |
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Sept 22, 2017 13:19:37 GMT
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I think you will find those 4 bolts only hold the back plate onto the stub axle, the spindle is part of the stub axle and not the brake back plate
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Advice on camber adjustment fr€$h&m1nt¥
@freshandminty
Club Retro Rides Member 99
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Sept 22, 2017 13:46:09 GMT
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I think you will find those 4 bolts only hold the back plate onto the stub axle, the spindle is part of the stub axle and not the brake back plate Ah thought things were going too well. That could be the case. I guess then I’d be looking at changing the fixing at the far end of the arm to push the whole thing out?! |
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slater
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,390
Club RR Member Number: 78
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Advice on camber adjustment slater
@slater
Club Retro Rides Member 78
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Sept 22, 2017 14:10:21 GMT
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Looks to be a fixed swing arm type arrangement. To change camber you would either have to cut and weld the arm so the stub axle is at a different angle or move the inner pivot point down (for more negative) you could possibly make an offset bush for a small adjustment.
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slater
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,390
Club RR Member Number: 78
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Advice on camber adjustment slater
@slater
Club Retro Rides Member 78
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Sept 22, 2017 14:15:02 GMT
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Actually I may be looking at it wrong.. Is there a ball joint in there somewhere? If so you can move the top strut mounting in or the lower track control arm mount out/lengthen the arm (might not help getting lower like that tho)
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Sept 22, 2017 14:16:21 GMT
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Hi, Moving the inner fixing to push it out will only change the track width. If on the standard suspension ride height the track control arm is more or less level then lowering the suspension will change the camber angle because the arm will swing through an arc.
Colin
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Curtis
Part of things
Posts: 622
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Sept 22, 2017 14:53:14 GMT
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Unbolt it all first to confirm whether or not the stub axle actually comes off with those bolts. If it does, the washers work fine to a point. I would look at the shim if only adding a small amount of camber, the first option with taps in the shim would only be suitable for a much thicker spacer/shim.
Also don't forget to take into account the toe effects this may have. If the bolt holes aren't perfectly horizontal, any 'camber' adjustment will result in slight tow in as well
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Driving:
Shitbox Honda S-MX |
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Advice on camber adjustment fr€$h&m1nt¥
@freshandminty
Club Retro Rides Member 99
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Sept 22, 2017 15:07:19 GMT
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Unbolt it all first to confirm whether or not the stub axle actually comes off with those bolts. If it does, the washers work fine to a point. I would look at the shim if only adding a small amount of camber, the first option with taps in the shim would only be suitable for a much thicker spacer/shim. Also don't forget to take into account the toe effects this may have. If the bolt holes aren't perfectly horizontal, any 'camber' adjustment will result in slight tow in as well Cheers yeah if decided that's the plan - If i can't get camber with the shim / washers arrangement I'll leave alone rather than modifying arms etc. I'll get it precision engineered to make sure it's horizontally spot on. |
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Sept 22, 2017 15:07:49 GMT
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ahh, I see its a hub that clamps to a strut? move the strut top towards the centreline of the vehicle, this will add camber.
moving the bottom out will also increase camber however it will increase the track width as well so will cause arch clearance issues.
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Advice on camber adjustment fr€$h&m1nt¥
@freshandminty
Club Retro Rides Member 99
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Sept 22, 2017 15:11:59 GMT
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ahh, I see its a hub that clamps to a strut? move the strut top towards the centreline of the vehicle, this will add camber. moving the bottom out will also increase camber however it will increase the track width as well so will cause arch clearance issues. yes that's right about the hub clamp - I wondered that too - creating a similar setup to a go kart and maybe kit car where the struts angle out so in effect rather than shimming the vertical plane on the hub I'm shimming the horizontal plane on the top mount? |
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Sept 23, 2017 5:15:44 GMT
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You just need a tapered shim. Used on the rear axle of Vw golfs etc. Can get them in various configurations. Google Vw Golf rear axle cambershims. Sure there is something you could adapt...😊
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steveg
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,563
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Sept 23, 2017 8:40:51 GMT
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Pretty sure that the hub and stub axle are one bit as others have said. If the ball joint is bolted to the suspension arm you might be able to add some adjustment there. Are the lower arms pressed steel or are they solid castings ?
Apart from that it's either a case of making some sort of offset bush or mounting for the inner pivot or moving the top of the strut towards the middle of the car.
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Last Edit: Sept 23, 2017 8:41:16 GMT by steveg
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Advice on camber adjustment fr€$h&m1nt¥
@freshandminty
Club Retro Rides Member 99
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Sept 23, 2017 8:41:53 GMT
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So turns out it was just the backing plate and the stub axle is part of the strut clamp itself...  So, if I add a shim to the strut top mount that will have equivalent effect of providing negative camber? |
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steveg
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,563
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Sept 23, 2017 9:27:47 GMT
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I think the only way to alter the camber is to move the strut top inwards. A lot will depend on how the struts are attached to the body and also if there is clearance around the spring itself. I went looking for a picture and found this.  If your top mount looks like this then moving the top of the strut might be a bit involved.  Depending on how much you need, lengthening the lower arm might be the easiest way to do this. It would need welding properly and because of the way the tie bar is welded you might have to adjust the castor as well. |
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Last Edit: Sept 23, 2017 10:17:48 GMT by steveg
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Advice on camber adjustment fr€$h&m1nt¥
@freshandminty
Club Retro Rides Member 99
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Sept 23, 2017 10:28:13 GMT
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I think the only way to alter the camber is to move the strut top inwards. A lot will depend on how the struts are attached to the body and also if there is clearance around the spring itself. I went looking for a picture and found this. If your top mount looks like this then moving the top of the strut might be a bit involved. Depending on how much you need, lengthening the lower arm might be the easiest way to do this. It would need welding properly and because of the way the tie bar is welded you might have to adjust the castor as well. Cheers for that. I’ve decided to leave the front as it is based on that, camber would only buy a few mm any way and really I should be concentrating on the rear end to get that to a matching height. |
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steveg
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,563
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Sept 23, 2017 19:23:49 GMT
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I think I spotted a photo of your Acty while I was looking for the pictures and could see the front is low. Up to a point you will get a bit more camber on the front with struts but if you too far it will start going positive again.
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