Engine Swap FAQ

Hi, Second question first, the angle depends on the engine and axle, some are level some have a shallow angle usually about 5 degrees down at the back. First question now, have it hanging on the hook or block up in the right position so nothing touches the bodywork then fabricate mounts to suit, usually CAD (Cardboard Aided Design). For longer universal joint life the propshaft flanges need to be parallel but offset either up, down or to one side so the joints work, if they are dead in line they can 'freeze' and have quite a short life. If they are at different angles this also can shorten their life and cause vibrations as well, although that can be mitigated sometimes.

Colin

Bookmarked!

General thoughts (from lots of looking into a swap, but no practical experience)
Google to see what has already been fitted into your car, you might find a how-to guide.
Pick an engine & box that will physically fit the engine bay and transmission tunnel to save yourself a lot of work, and possible legal / BIVA problems.
Cheapest option is to buy a donor vehicle with good mechanicals, then you know you have all the bits you need. Ebay / scrap what's left and you should end up with a cheap engine.
Fit the engine at the same angle it was in the original car (mine is tilted about 7 degrees from the factory, other cars from the same maker have engines vertical)
Electrics - Google to see what you need to wire up to get it running. Beware factory immobilisers PATS etc. Or fit a stand-alone Megajolt type system (cost ).
Use a standard propshaft if possible (shortening a prop is not cheap!)
Fuel system. Changing from carbs to an injection engine will need a new fuel pump, extra piping, etc. 
Speedo drive (will the new system work with your clocks? cable or electronic speedo drive?)
Exhaust. You might be able to join the engine to your existing system, or it might be a pig of a job.

If you say what car / engine are you thinking of, folk here can advise the details