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For suspension, cross member, steering rack, roll bars etc
Ive read else where that powder coating doesnt seem to be as popular now, with many people preferring to use Epoxy mastic or similar
I used some POR15 on my fuel rail about 4 years ago and it still looks great, but what's peoples thoughts, which would you use?
I intend to drop out most of the suspension much later in the year to titivate everything, as whatever was used 15 years ago is now showing quite a lot of surface rust, but I cant decide on what to go for!
I posted this on the zclub forum and POR15 gets most of the votes,
what experiences have people had with the longevity of said products on RR
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'76' Datsun 260z 2+2 UK RHD.... owned since '95' none of that rust free LHD import shenanigans!
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I know some people have had problems with things getting powdercoated, and it chipping, but personally it's the toughest finish i've come across (plus someone else does the blasting/derusting and cleaning  ) Tried POR15 on bits of the underside, which seemed to work well, but even after decanting some into a container/putting the lid back on, it was rock solid/had to thrown the rest away which was a waste (even tho only a little tin) Epoxy I need to try - but the fact that it's two part/have to mix appeals as storing i would image is easier... |
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The only problem I found with POR-15 is that it doesn't like sticking to clean smooth metal, and I think they do another primer / surface prep if that's what it is going onto. I had a front subframe powder-coated some years ago, but that didn't last well - new owner says that a lot of it has come off now. The main problem seems to be that once it is damaged, you can't repair it like you can with paint, though the powder-coating company that did the job said it should get damaged in the first place. As it's now in Australia, there's no solution to it.
I've put Epoxy Mastic on the bottom of my project car, but as it hasn't been on the road yet I can't say how will it will last. I found that applying it was a very long job, and the stuff I got (which is actually that brand name, not the Jotun / Jotamastic product which I believe is the same but cheaper) had an awful smell to it.
I also have a tin of solid POR-15. For my second order, I bought the pack of slightly-more-expensive small tins rather than a single large tin, simply so I didn't lose so much when it went off. I even did their trick of putting cling film across the top of the paint before putting the lid on.
On my first tin, when I bought a 1L one, I'd been really careful but it formed a thick skin across the top. I tried all sorts to penetrate the skin and get to the paint, but nothing moved. Finally in frustration I hit the pointy thing a little harder whereupon a weak point burst and the pressure splashed the paint upwards onto my face and neck. Luckily none went in my eyes, but I had to make a badge that said "It's paint" and wear it for the next few days in work.
All that said, some parts of my Firenza (which has been back on the road since 1998) were done with silver Hammerite and still are good today. But then, Hammerite (like Nitromors) I think was quite a different product back then.
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Last Edit: May 17, 2017 10:01:05 GMT by droopsnoot
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fad
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,781
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I know someone who used POR-15 to tidy up a bit of their car the day before their wedding... They had an itch on their face, rubbed it with the back of their hand, smeared paint all up the side of their face.
Panicked phone call to me... "HOW DO I GET THIS STUFF OFF?!?!?!?!" He had to wear makeup and his wife went PROPERLY spare.
Now... Onto the questions...
I have just painted my floorpan on the Volksord with Upol Raptor with a shutz gun. It looks like stonechip with that application (though it can go on smooth with a primer gun but I like it rough!). I am told that this paint is indestructable (it wants to be at the price it is!) but we shall see how it does.
I've used POR-15, it degrades with UV badly so you need to protect it with a coat of something else. But when offshore we used nothing but epoxy to protect stuff in harsh environments and that worked well. Very well, actually.
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Last Edit: May 18, 2017 8:34:15 GMT by fad
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May 19, 2017 17:34:28 GMT
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por15 themselves say an unopened tin has a shelf life as little as 6 months (thats unopened)
but it is one of the most tenacious 1k polyurethane paints
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May 19, 2017 18:45:03 GMT
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Tried POR15 on bits of the underside, which seemed to work well, but even after decanting some into a container/putting the lid back on, it was rock solid/had to thrown the rest away which was a waste (even tho only a little tin) Let me sort that bit for you then... Don't open the lid on the POR. Use a couple of big nails to punch a hole in each side of the lid. Pour the POR out of the hole. Clean up any ove-rspill from pouring Now grab your MIG welder, Release the wire roller so that it does not feed wire, but DOES release CO2 when you pull the trigger. (and for gods sake don't ground the can!) Place the MIG gun against one of the holes in the POR can and flood the insides with tCO2 for 20 seconds. Seal the holes with aluminum duct tape. (I then store in the beer fridge just to be sure) Last can was usable maybe 6 times over two years. The thing to realize with POR is that it is a moisture cure. CO2 is heavier than air and will displace any air out of the can. |
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