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Jan 28, 2019 23:22:39 GMT
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I have a project that I am hoping to start next year after I have done all the home jobs, I have in the past used odd bits of steel but for this project I shall buy Zintec however it appears to come in enormous sheets, is it available in more manageable sizes? Having made card templates what would you suggest would be the best way of cutting out the steel in a home environment without bodyshop facilities? Aviation snips. A set of three(left, right and straight cut) will be less than £50. If you've got lots of clamps, then a good jigswaw will be OK for long cuts. Guillotine if you have space and money for one. Your local bodyshop supplier will sell more manageable sizes, along with channels and angles which will save you lots of hassle.
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glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,091
Club RR Member Number: 64
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Body & Paint Threadglenanderson
@glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member 64
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And 1mm thick slitting discs in an angle grinder.
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My worst worry about dying is my wife selling my stuff for what I told her it cost...
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I have a project that I am hoping to start next year after I have done all the home jobs, I have in the past used odd bits of steel but for this project I shall buy Zintec however it appears to come in enormous sheets, is it available in more manageable sizes? Having made card templates what would you suggest would be the best way of cutting out the steel in a home environment without bodyshop facilities? This is who I use for metal / Zintec supplies www.themetalstore.co.uk/products/zintec-sheet-ukThey stock various thickness and sizes - 500 x 500mm through to 1250 x 2500mm They also stock a vast range of other metals / sheet - offer a cut to size service & delivery is good - you may pay a small premium with them but it's worth it for the service alone - if you are planning a project it's worth thinking about a bulk order for anything else that you may need such bar / angle / box etc has delivery is free once your order is £75 + You could use a guillotine for the sheet but it's restrictive to straight cuts and watch / research for the blade length & throat depth if you do think about purchasing one - throatless guillotines are available but these work with two wheels - they are difficult to control in a straight line and the serrations on the wheels leave serrated marks on the sheet has it pulls it though - personally I would stick to the straight bladed type Has already mentioned aviation tinsnips is the route to go - don't just purchase any old set though - there is some proper rubbish £10 a set of 3 out there that are just not worth the effort - see the set linked below - personally I have used these professionally for several years and they are still going good - the best set that I have owned in my lifetime & sub £50 gets you a set www.teng.co.uk/491-teng-tools-tinsnips-straight-right.htmlwww.teng.co.uk/490-teng-tools-tinsnips-straight.htmlwww.teng.co.uk/492-teng-tools-tinsnips-straight-left.htmlAlthough I run a restoration business my workshop is small - I don't have room for lots of fancy equipment (or the budget come to that) - but there is an expanse of kit out there that will help and along with a little ingenuity you will get by just fine - let me know if you need any further info - and its great to see someone planning a project well in advance - Chris
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Last Edit: Jan 29, 2019 13:00:28 GMT by Deleted
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Jan 29, 2019 11:18:35 GMT
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I've tried a variety of things for cutting up larger sheets - I buy 8'x4' sheets (or whatever the equivalent is now) so I have to cut bits off to make things more manageable. Aviation snips are good, I probably wouldn't think of using them to cut from the big piece though, as I find it quite hard going.
I do have a "Nibbler", a bit of kit that fits in the end of a power drill. That works with an oscillating bit on the end which cuts out tiny crescent-shaped bits of metal. You get a bit of wastage that way (maybe 4-5mm wide), but you can cut pretty much any shape. You'll see them on display at restoration shows where they cut all sorts of curves out - but that's also because it's quite difficult to do a straight cut. If I need to, I clamp a straight bit of MDF along the big sheet and run the nibbler along that, but usually I use the nibbler to cut a usable chunk off the full sheet, then use something else to get it to the shape I need. Two warnings: 1 - use plenty of oil on the nibbler head and on the steel, to keep it lubricated, or you'll find the tip will break (mine is on a lifetime warranty, but I think they're shorter now); 2 - the crescent-shaped bits are hot when they spray out of the nibbler head. This is particularly important during summer when you may be wearing shorts and trainers, with no socks.
Another thing you could look for is a "panel saw", basically a hacksaw but instead of the tubular frame it has a flat piece of flexible steel to form the body, given the appearance of a wood saw in the end. Because there is no frame thickness, there is no issue with cutting through any length of flat sheet.
I have also been recently trying my Aldi shears - air-driven, so only any good if you have a compressor. They really get through the sheet, though at the expense of more wastage than the nibbler as the strip they cut out is around 7-8mm wide.
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Anyone tried a throatless shear? any recommendations?
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Anyone tried a throatless shear? any recommendations? Loads of models available but they work with serrations on the wheels to draw the sheet through and tend to mark the sheet - probably fine for most users but I find them awkward to maintain a straight cut - hence I don't use them !
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I always use air powered shears to cut up large sheets and the rough shape, then finish off with aviation snips. A bit of oil helps the air shears cut.
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Epoxy paints, my garage is fairly cold, its detached and uninsulated and normally I only do any painting after Easter when the weather is warmer , but current project has progressed quicker.Although I do have some heating in there, I need to crack on with the underside of the current project. Now I've been reading and seeing dewpoint mentioned affecting the adhesion of paint and epoxy coatings
So my question is, if my garage is say ambient air 10c does this mean I need to get the panels upto to 15c? or do I just need the garage 5c warmer than outside?
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Last Edit: Feb 6, 2019 23:21:34 GMT by Implandy
retired with too many projects!
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Epoxy paints, my garage is fairly cold, its detached and uninsulated and normally I only do any painting after Easter when the weather is warmer , but current project has progressed quicker.Although I do have some heating in there, I need to crack on with the underside of the current project. Now I've been reading and seeing dewpoint mentioned affecting the adhesion of paint and epoxy coatings So my question is, if my garage is say ambient air 10c does this mean I need to get the panels upto to 15c? or do I just need the garage 5c warmer than outside? 2 pack paints / epoxy coatings will not cure in temperatures that are sub 5c and although I understand paints & methods - I don't know them technically enough to tell you why - it's something to do with molecular structure of the paint & hardener - if you can maintain a temperature closer to 10c then you will be fine - Chris
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Last Edit: Feb 6, 2019 23:47:33 GMT by Deleted
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Chris - As a follow up to Implandy's question on ambient temperature. Included on one of your other recent postings there is a photo showing your workshop front door. It appears to be covered in insulation sheets. Is this just normal expanded polystyrene type board or something special that doesn't react to paint overspray etc. Also what did you use to glue it on?
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There will be 2 issues
As Chris mentions the chemical reactions which take place to cure the paints are very slow at cold temperatures, I find even at around 15-20 degrees it still takes a day for epoxy to fully harden.
The other issue is if you panels are cold the dampness from the atmosphere will condense out on them and cause adhesion and micrblistering problems, spraying what is warm damp air from your compressor / spray gun at a cold panel will be a big part of the issue (the warm air can hold more moisture). If you can get the panels up to 15 degrees and make sure you have a good water separator in your airline you will probably be fine but clearly it is far from ideal, you could also consider rollering it on which obviously reduces the risk further.
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Chris - As a follow up to Implandy's question on ambient temperature. Included on one of your other recent postings there is a photo showing your workshop front door. It appears to be covered in insulation sheets. Is this just normal expanded polystyrene type board or something special that doesn't react to paint overspray etc. Also what did you use to glue it on? Its known has insulation board - readily available at any builders merchants / large DIY chains - there are several manufactures of it - Kingspan / Celotex being a couple - it comes in various thicknesses - I have used 50mm and also in various sheet sizes - I used 1200mm x 450mm x 50mm but you can get full sheets 2400 x 1200 www.wickes.co.uk/Products/Building-Materials/Insulation/Insulation-Boards/c/1000272I used twin lock screws with some large washers to secure them but you could use a suitable adhesive
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thanks all , I'll go get some gloss rollers , and get the heat on early in the garage and get a surface temp reader, the time to cure isn't so much of an issue as I have plenty of other things to do , its making sure it does cure and then stays on as don't intend seeing the underside of this Imp again, for car that's 50 this year there's only the odd patch where the original underseal had failed.
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retired with too many projects!
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Anyone tried a throatless shear? any recommendations? Loads of models available but they work with serrations on the wheels to draw the sheet through and tend to mark the sheet - probably fine for most users but I find them awkward to maintain a straight cut - hence I don't use them !
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Ah one of those - you should be ok with it but it's top money - I have a professional workshop and I am always cutting sheet up and mange just fine with a decent set of aviation snips but it is down to technique
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Chris - Thanks for the advice on the insulation. Thought might have been something 'specialist'. Off to Wickes for boarding and evo-stick.
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Feb 15, 2019 21:10:59 GMT
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Hi chris when applying body filler to a panel is it best to take the panel back to bare metal then apply or apply over existing paint thanks Aaron
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sonus
Europe
Posts: 1,386
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Feb 15, 2019 21:39:07 GMT
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Any suggestions regarding painting engine blocks? My cast iron Daimler V8 short block will soon be finished and I want to paint it satin black with a good resistance to heat and chemicals.
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Current 1968 TVR VIXEN S1 V8 Prototype 2004 TVR T350C 2017 BMW 340i
Previous BMW 325d E91LCI - sold Alfa Romeo GTV - sold Citroen AX GT - at the breakers Ford Puma 1.7 - sold Volvo V50 2.0d - sold MGB GT - wrecked by fire MG ZT 1.8T - sold VW E-golf Electric - sold Mini Countryman 1.6D -sold Land Rover Discovery TD5 - sold
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Feb 15, 2019 21:58:34 GMT
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Hi chris when applying body filler to a panel is it best to take the panel back to bare metal then apply or apply over existing paint thanks Aaron Aaron - All depends upon what paint you are planning on using over the top of the repair area - solvent based paints tend to shrink the repair edge and you can always see where the repair is - some acrylic paints will do likewise but not all - water based paints will not shrink the paint under the repair area - if you area undecided on what final paint type that you are going to use then I would bare metal the repair area
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Last Edit: Feb 15, 2019 21:59:34 GMT by Deleted
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