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Aug 29, 2019 18:56:18 GMT
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Steering wheel in my Standard 10, the surface wore away & a previous owner painted it with household gloss straight on top of the dirt & grease, soon came off. What would be the best way of refurbishing it? Apologies only just seen this - I did mine on the Javelin - repaired any cracks with a epoxy resin completed any fine detail with a body filler - prepped it, primed it & painted it with a solvent based rattle can - and it still looks good 8 years later
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Aug 29, 2019 19:10:29 GMT
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I have been in the market for a new 2 pack primer most people on here refer to it has epoxy primer - the product that I have previously favoured is not has good has it used to be - so I did a little asking around - news on the block is that this is the business Lechler's 4004 Green TI primer - 2 pack mixed 5 -1 with a 327 standard hardener and thinned with 740 thinners - with a primer you want the best of all worlds - Excellent adhesion qualities on all substrates / surfaces - Plastic / Alloys / Steel, excellent filling capabilities, easy application and good coverage - more important than anything it needs to be excellent at sanding back wet or dry - nothing worse than primers that have the resistance of concrete when sanding / flatting back - it's passed all of the above criteria so far on the one job that I tried it on Finally it needs to be economical - from my calculations by the time you have added the hardener / thinner it works out at circa £18 - £20 per litre when purchased in the 2.5 litre cans So far so good then - it comes in light grey / dark grey / green and is tintable - (means you use less final colour / basecoat) - the closer the primer colour is to your final colour the easier it is to achieve coverage with the final colour - therefore using less paint
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Last Edit: Aug 29, 2019 19:16:10 GMT by Deleted
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Aug 29, 2019 19:38:13 GMT
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Steering wheel in my Standard 10, the surface wore away & a previous owner painted it with household gloss straight on top of the dirt & grease, soon came off. What would be the best way of refurbishing it? Apologies only just seen this - I did mine on the Javelin - repaired any cracks with a epoxy resin completed any fine detail with a body filler - prepped it, primed it & painted it with a solvent based rattle can - and it still looks good 8 years later Thanks, by solvent do you mean cellulose or something else?
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Aug 30, 2019 15:21:55 GMT
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Apologies only just seen this - I did mine on the Javelin - repaired any cracks with a epoxy resin completed any fine detail with a body filler - prepped it, primed it & painted it with a solvent based rattle can - and it still looks good 8 years later Thanks, by solvent do you mean cellulose or something else? Solvent based is cellulose - I would try a small area first to ensure that you do not gain any reaction from the compounds that wheel is made from - but other than that its all straight forward - Frost + others do a steering wheel repair kit but its fairly expensive and the last time I enquired into having one done professionally I was quoted several hundred £ - so crack on and give it a go you have nothing to loose
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Aug 30, 2019 20:37:34 GMT
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I used lechler green ti filler for years, loved it. Great build and very easy sanded.
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Aug 30, 2019 20:53:01 GMT
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Forgive me but green ti is not epoxy primer, I've been taught to use epoxy first then green ti, then colour primer (if reqd) & topcoat.
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Hello Grumpy and others... I'm finally organising myself to fix the damage on the green panels of my Cressida so I can get it all in one colour* again. I've got the welder, ordered a nice wide view helmet. Just got to sort out gas. However I was wondering about the best way to tackle this. Originally I was just going to cut it off at the swage line and butt weld the same section from my old wing in in its place. But I've been wondering if I'd be better off joddling it instead? Or is there another way you would go about doing this? It's been poorly plated in behind and has blown out and I guess there's some stress on it by the looks of things? And then there is this dent, which I'm wondering if I should bother trying to hammer out a bit, or just fill with filler and be done with it. The lower part of the wing is covered in stone chip so I think replacing it would be easier than trying to remove it all.. There are some minor repairs to be done to the lip of the arch and the flange where it bolts to the sill. These areas aren't as bad on the red wing.
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Last Edit: Aug 31, 2019 0:35:17 GMT by varelse
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Aug 31, 2019 18:38:27 GMT
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Solvent based is cellulose..... Thanks GN, so to get it right in my mind both the Audi TT & the Corsair were painted in solvent base followed by 2 pack clear, would that be acrylic base?
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Sept 16, 2019 21:09:12 GMT
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GN I'm most of the way through reading your thread on the Corsair for the second time and have just finished this thread in order to pick up tips and knowledge of what products to use. I'm coming from the point of view of doing a driveway restoration on a VW T25 van, so I can't compressor spray 2k products although I do have a reasonably decent 100 litre compressor to use, however I expect to do most of the painting from aerosols. Due to cost, ease and size of the van my current plan is to roller paint it with Rustoleum, so I only need to get up to primer stage on the bodywork, but I'm still a little unsure of the ideal way to deal with the underside and suspension components, so I have a few questions please and correct me where I'm wrong: - For suspension components and crossmembers, strip and H80 then epoxy prime but what should I use as a top coat? I had thought epoxy-mastic was recommended but thought POR15 (not recommended) was epoxy-mastic? A few pages ago I think you said cellulose but I didn't think this would be tough enough? Is aerosol cellulose good enough?
- What should be used on suspension springs and anti-roll bars, as these need added flexibility?
- Underbody protection I think you recommend Dinitrol 4941 over epoxy primer, but this isn't over-paintable? Is there something similar that is over-paintable? I'm not bothered about colour on the underside but in the wheel arches would be nice. Raptor tintable can be mixed with a basecoat to add colour but this is 2 pack so I assume not suitable for my circumstances?
- I notice Jawel sell 2 pack aerosol paints (primer in particular). I assume this has all the same risks as normal 2 pack therefore isn't suitable?
- You recommend cellulose as the most suitable paint for compressor spraying outside, how quickly does modern cellulose cure?
- Is cellulose recommended for painting steel wheels or will it not take the abuse from the brake dust well? If not celly, what else?
- Can you clarify when to use epoxy primer vs when to use etch primer vs when to use zinc primer?
- Can you apply basecoat over filler primer or should you prime over the top with 'standard' primer before base coat?
- When should you apply the lacquer when using 1k aerosols? Previously I'd read to do it when the final basecoat is only a little bit tacky still? Or should the base coat fully cure, be wet sanded (800?) and then apply the lacquer?
Sorry for all the questions, it's a minefield for those not in the know many thanks in advance for taking the time.
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Last Edit: Sept 16, 2019 21:11:23 GMT by oli8925
Project Diary1975 Viva / 1988 T25 Camper / 1989 Mini / 1991 MX5 / 1992 Mini / 1994 Saab 9000 / 1997 Saab 9000 / 2008 Saab 9-5
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Sept 17, 2019 6:11:03 GMT
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GN I'm most of the way through reading your thread on the Corsair for the second time and have just finished this thread in order to pick up tips and knowledge of what products to use. I'm coming from the point of view of doing a driveway restoration on a VW T25 van, so I can't compressor spray 2k products although I do have a reasonably decent 100 litre compressor to use, however I expect to do most of the painting from aerosols. Due to cost, ease and size of the van my current plan is to roller paint it with Rustoleum, so I only need to get up to primer stage on the bodywork, but I'm still a little unsure of the ideal way to deal with the underside and suspension components, so I have a few questions please and correct me where I'm wrong: - For suspension components and crossmembers, strip and H80 then epoxy prime but what should I use as a top coat? I had thought epoxy-mastic was recommended but thought POR15 (not recommended) was epoxy-mastic? A few pages ago I think you said cellulose but I didn't think this would be tough enough? Is aerosol cellulose good enough?
Epoxy mastics & POR set to a very hard formula hence when impacted by stone / road debris they chip easily then allow water in behind the coating - Frosts chassis black is good stuff - comes in gloss & satin both in aerosol - its not cheap but it is very good www.frost.co.uk/eastwood-original-satin-chassis-black-paint-aerosol/www.frost.co.uk/eastwood-gloss-chassis-black-paint-aerosol/- What should be used on suspension springs and anti-roll bars, as these need added flexibility?
Has above
- Underbody protection I think you recommend Dinitrol 4941 over epoxy primer, but this isn't over-paintable? Is there something similar that is over-paintable? I'm not bothered about colour on the underside but in the wheel arches would be nice. Raptor tintable can be mixed with a basecoat to add colour but this is 2 pack so I assume not suitable for my circumstances?
You could use a sprayable stone chip - you would be ok with Raptor with correct PPE - disposable coverall / gloves & a high quality 3m charcoal filter respirator - these are circa £25 - £35 and would last the project duration - I notice Jawel sell 2 pack aerosol paints (primer in particular). I assume this has all the same risks as normal 2 pack therefore isn't suitable?
Correct assumption
- You recommend cellulose as the most suitable paint for compressor spraying outside, how quickly does modern cellulose cure?
Temperature dependant - current weather it will be touch dry in a few hours - but it continues to cure for significant period afterwards - forget it once we get to the damp / wet weather season - especially outside - Is cellulose recommended for painting steel wheels or will it not take the abuse from the brake dust well? If not celly, what else?
Should not be a problem but it's not has durable has a 2 pack finish - personally I would avoid powder coating - Can you clarify when to use epoxy primer vs when to use etch primer vs when to use zinc primer?
Etch primer - over bare metal surfaces especially alloys, Zinc primer - over areas that want to provide anti rust protection to such has wheel arches / sills, Epoxy primer can go over both of the previous primers and be used to build the areas up plus protect from moisture absorption - Can you apply basecoat over filler primer or should you prime over the top with 'standard' primer before base coat?
Basecoat can go straight over a prepared filler primer
- When should you apply the lacquer when using 1k aerosols? Previously I'd read to do it when the final basecoat is only a little bit tacky still? Or should the base coat fully cure, be wet sanded (800?) and then apply the lacquer?
Basecoats should always be fully cured but these do not take too long to cure anyway and ideally should be clear coated the same day or the following day if left overnight - no further prep is required once the basecoat is applied - I just very, very gently go over the basecoat with a tackrag prior to applying the lacquer Sorry for all the questions, it's a minefield for those not in the know many thanks in advance for taking the time. Its just not a problem - I would rather you sought / asked for the info than expend a shed load of money - guess and then be disappointed with the results - please don't hesitate to post anything else that you need help with up
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Sept 17, 2019 13:44:01 GMT
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I have been in the market for a new 2 pack primer most people on here refer to it has epoxy primer - the product that I have previously favoured is not has good has it used to be - so I did a little asking around - news on the block is that this is the business We switched to this last year. You won't be disappointed.
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Specialist Bodyshop & Fabrication Classic, Retro, Prestige & Custom Small Repairs to Concours Restorations Mechanical Work Vintage to Modern
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Sept 17, 2019 14:18:29 GMT
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Is Powdercoating to be avoided? I was thinking about doing this for some of the suspension parts, I'd also like to paint the front struts Yellow so I was thinking Rustoleom would be ok?
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1966 Ford Cortina GT 2018 Ford Fiesta ST
Full time engineer, part time waffler on Youtube - see Jim_Builds
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Sept 17, 2019 17:17:09 GMT
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The thing that put me off powder coating was that it can't be repaired if / when it gets damaged. The result is that water can get behind the coating, and stick around far longer, and do more damage. I'd also be a bit concerned on suspension components about the coating getting into areas such as where a bush is an interference fit, or if you have a splined hole for the ball joint. At that point, you'd need to damage the coating to fit the bush or joint, and then it's a waste of money.
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Sept 17, 2019 20:33:46 GMT
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Is Powdercoating to be avoided? I was thinking about doing this for some of the suspension parts, I'd also like to paint the front struts Yellow so I was thinking Rustoleom would be ok? Jim - Personally I don't rate powder coating for underbody / suspension parts at all - for all the reasons that droopsnoot has listed in the above post
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Last Edit: Sept 17, 2019 20:34:38 GMT by Deleted
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Sept 18, 2019 10:28:15 GMT
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Is Powdercoating to be avoided? I was thinking about doing this for some of the suspension parts, I'd also like to paint the front struts Yellow so I was thinking Rustoleom would be ok? Jim - Personally I don't rate powder coating for underbody / suspension parts at all - for all the reasons that droopsnoot has listed in the above post That makes sense - cost wise it was negligent as I had a quote from the powder coater I use as work but I'm going to use the cortina as much as possible so I'd like to keep things as clean and as simple as I can!
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1966 Ford Cortina GT 2018 Ford Fiesta ST
Full time engineer, part time waffler on Youtube - see Jim_Builds
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gryphon
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 330
Club RR Member Number: 157
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Body & Paint Threadgryphon
@gryphon
Club Retro Rides Member 157
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Sept 19, 2019 8:39:52 GMT
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Anecdotal evidence - we had all suspension arms from an MX5 powdercoated to what seemed to be a good standard a year ago. One year and a few thousand miles later the leading edges are all chipped and rusting. Not doing that again!
A huge thank you for this thread GN, it's very educational! I wish I'd read it before doing some work recently where I missed the seam sealer step... Working on the front inner wings, wheel arches and lower half of the engine bay I cleaned everything back with a wire wheel, H80 where required, electrox over unrusted steel and the bits of H80 and BH Epoxy Mastic over that. Impact areas were then given two coats of Dynax UB. With the mastic and the dynax I paid particular attention to panel joins ensuring they were generously sealed - but I didn't use any seam sealer. Is this likely to come back and bite me?
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Sept 19, 2019 10:35:37 GMT
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Anecdotal evidence - we had all suspension arms from an MX5 powdercoated to what seemed to be a good standard a year ago. One year and a few thousand miles later the leading edges are all chipped and rusting. Not doing that again! A huge thank you for this thread GN, it's very educational! I wish I'd read it before doing some work recently where I missed the seam sealer step... Working on the front inner wings, wheel arches and lower half of the engine bay I cleaned everything back with a wire wheel, H80 where required, electrox over unrusted steel and the bits of H80 and BH Epoxy Mastic over that. Impact areas were then given two coats of Dynax UB. With the mastic and the dynax I paid particular attention to panel joins ensuring they were generously sealed - but I didn't use any seam sealer. Is this likely to come back and bite me? I would keep your eyes on the seams - they may crack open but at least if you keep an eye on them you can do something about them - left just with hairline cracks the water will ingress and obviously do its best to create rust - you need to inspect thoroughly though with a strong light and not just a 2 second glance under the car has it falls dusk
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smart
Part of things
Posts: 134
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Sept 19, 2019 12:01:18 GMT
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Great thread I was a Merc/BMW painter for 10 years before I managed to escape the motor trade! Car refinishing is such a minefield it is difficult to give people advice (Even experienced painters let alone people in their shed) so fair play
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1998 Rover 400 Derv
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gryphon
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 330
Club RR Member Number: 157
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Body & Paint Threadgryphon
@gryphon
Club Retro Rides Member 157
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Sept 19, 2019 12:18:39 GMT
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I would keep your eyes on the seams - they may crack open but at least if you keep an eye on them you can do something about them - left just with hairline cracks the water will ingress and obviously do its best to create rust - you need to inspect thoroughly though with a strong light and not just a 2 second glance under the car has it falls dusk Thanks, I will do that and order some seam sealer!
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Sept 22, 2019 10:57:38 GMT
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Its just not a problem - I would rather you sought / asked for the info than expend a shed load of money - guess and then be disappointed with the results - please don't hesitate to post anything else that you need help with up Thanks GN, you're a gent.
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Project Diary1975 Viva / 1988 T25 Camper / 1989 Mini / 1991 MX5 / 1992 Mini / 1994 Saab 9000 / 1997 Saab 9000 / 2008 Saab 9-5
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