Rebel
Part of things
Posts: 343
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And, thanks to the very pleasantly warm weather today ( so much for the forecast of rain and more rain ) the whole internal frame is finished! Before anyone gets disappointed ( or excited ), there's still a long way to go. Side panels are next, then roof panels. Followed by the up and over door and the side door. All this before I even think of electrics and insulation. This is how it looked a little earlier today Having got as far as completing the frame work, I thought I'd check that all parts for the up and over door were present and correct. Everything seemed to be there, so I thought I'd check to see how it all goes together. While checking the fitment, I noticed something about the design of the shed. The up and over door track comes to an end just in front of the central roof truss, enough space for it to roll up and over without being in the way and a perfect stopping position. However, I shortened the frame of the shed to fit the available space that I have. Which means that the door track now looks like this ( or would look like this if it was bolted into place fully ). This part is absolutely fine and ready to be bolted in place, However, there's a slight problem that's noticeable in this shot After the initial "oh, curse word, what have I done" thoughts. I took a break and thought about my reasons for deciding to cut the frame where I did. Originally, I was going to cut the frame at the rear of the shed, which would have been nice and easy, but, it would have caused two issues. The first one would have been problems with the size of the side door. I didn't want to leave myself with a side door that was too narrow to be of any use. The second issue was that by shortening the frame at the back, the central roof support truss would no longer be.....erm..... central. Not being an architect, I have no idea whether the truss not being central would cause any issues or not. I suspect that it might have done in some way, especially as it would have been about three foot off centre. So I cut the frame at the front. It's all worked out very well until the front door track problem was spotted today. After thinking about it ( well, standing under it and staring at it ), I came up with three options, bolt it all together as is and not be able to open the door all the way - this could be ok, but when the doors open, the entrance will be about three foot shorter than it should be. Only really a problem if I need to put something big in there and I'd have to duck every time I used it. The second option was to shorten the rear of the front door track to enable it to end where it should, but to be honest, this would be a waste of time and effort as it would have the exact same result as option one. The third option was to cut about two inches out of the front door track uprights, where they bolt to the door frame. This'll have the overall effect of lowering the rear of the track by about two inches as well. Meaning that the door will have full travel, ( as designed ) when opened, it'll just be about two inches lower. My thinking is that losing two inches headroom when the door is open fully is far better than losing three foot at the door itself. Option three it is then, but I'll finish the side panels and roof first.
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1968 Dodge Charger 1985 Chevrolet Camaro 1993 Toyota Hilux Surf 2001 Ford Mondeo
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Rebel
Part of things
Posts: 343
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Today's free time consisted of more construction, after the last few days of slowly putting the frame together, today's work of attaching the side panels seemed to pass very quickly. All the side panels are now bolted to the frame. The only gaps are at the front for the up and over door and at the side for the rear door. Reading through the instructions in preparation for starting on the roof panels, it states that this shed can be erected in a couple of days by two adults. Also pointing out that you need a second person in order to build it. Well with the exception of a little help from Master Rebel, I've built it on my own. Had I not decided to use nuts and bolts instead of screws, I wouldn't have needed any help at all. The help that he gave was to squeeze himself into the space between the garden fence and the shed frame, putting the bolts in that I couldn't reach, for me to put the nuts on from the other side of the panel. If I'd followed the instructions and used screws to attach the side panels, I probably could have managed on my own. What I mean is, I reckon one person would actually be able to complete this on their own. Having said that, I've still got the roof and two doors to finish! Anyhoo - I'm one step closer to finishing the shed, at least as far as building it is concerned. And this is how it currently looks, And of course, not forgetting the bedroom window view
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1968 Dodge Charger 1985 Chevrolet Camaro 1993 Toyota Hilux Surf 2001 Ford Mondeo
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Runar
Part of things
Posts: 42
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Hi!
Seems like you got yourself a life size meccano set:) Good job fitting that one togehter. I would have given up a long time ago.. Keep up the good work!
Just a thought regarding the up and over door: Instead og cutting two inches of the uprights, could you angle the tracks down a bit at the end? Or is that going to put too much strain on the tracks when the door is opened? (Hope you understand what I´m thinking here..)
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Last Edit: Mar 6, 2017 19:46:37 GMT by Runar
65-Beetle
74-VW Passat 1.5 Automatic
08-Touran
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^ that's a good shout - if the door panel sections hinge past 90° that might solve the issue
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Rebel
Part of things
Posts: 343
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Hi! Seems like you got yourself a life size meccano set:) Good job fitting that one togehter. I would have given up a long time ago.. Keep up the good work! Thanks for taking the time to comment, ironically, I was never that good at meccano and hated metal work when I was at school. The teacher had us all making a screwdriver and I managed to melt the shaft of mine! Of course, since I started playing with old cars, I seem to have gotten quite good at metal work. I would have preferred to take the back wall off my garage and extend it to the end of the garden, but I couldn't afford it and I've never layed a brick so wouldn't know where to start if I was to do it myself. Second choice was a wooden shed, but Mrs Rebel thought that some local opportunistic lowlife wandering by might take great pleasure in practising pyromania with it. So that left either metal or plastic and it was never going to be plastic.
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1968 Dodge Charger 1985 Chevrolet Camaro 1993 Toyota Hilux Surf 2001 Ford Mondeo
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Rebel
Part of things
Posts: 343
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Hi! Just a thought regarding the up and over door: Instead og cutting two inches of the uprights, could you angle the tracks down a bit at the end? Or is that going to put too much strain on the tracks when the door is opened? (Hope you understand what I´m thinking here..) I do indeed understand your thinking, thanks for the idea. I really don't know if it would put any strain on the tracks, although the tracks themselves are a lot more substantial than any other part of it. It's got to be worth considering though ^ that's a good shout - if the door panel sections hinge past 90° that might solve the issue It certainly is a good shout, the door sections do hinge past 90 degrees, infact, they go to 180 so it does sound possible. Food for thought anyway
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1968 Dodge Charger 1985 Chevrolet Camaro 1993 Toyota Hilux Surf 2001 Ford Mondeo
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Rebel
Part of things
Posts: 343
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Made a start on the roof panels today, didn't go according to plan though. Due to cutting the frame and the roof supports to make it fit the space available, some predrilled holes in the frame didn't line up with the predrilled holes in the side panels. That was easily solved by redrilling the holes in the frame through the original holes in the side panels. However, this isn't really possible with the roof panels. At least, if the rest are as awkward as the first it won't be a possibility. The main problem is alignment, not only do all the predrilled holes need to line up but the ribs in the roof panels are supposed to line up with the ribs in the side panels. The first panel now has all the holes lining up, but the ribs don't line up with the side panels. As well as alignment issues, using nuts and bolts to mount the roof panels was proving very difficult earlier today. Each panel has 12 bolt holes, four at the top, four in the middle and four at the bottom. I couldnt reach some of the bolts on the first panel, my arms just aren't long enough and the gable end prevents me from being able to access the holes / bolts from both sides. Of course, this problem will only get worse as more panels are added. My thinking so far, is instead of using nuts and bolts, to use rivets. In theory at least, this is a better option ( especially when there's only one person fitting the roof panels ) and one that I'll try, to see how it works out.
Unless of course, any of you have a better idea?
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1968 Dodge Charger 1985 Chevrolet Camaro 1993 Toyota Hilux Surf 2001 Ford Mondeo
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Rebel
Part of things
Posts: 343
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Got a couple more hours in today, I lifted the next roof panel into place and popped a rivet in. Then I made the mistake of thinking about the entire roof being held in place by a bunch of rivets. Would the rivets hold it in place or would the wind pull them through the panels and cause any amount of problems? As I couldn't get the image of bits of roof ( or worse, the whole roof ) blowing off at some point in the future. So I decided to compromise, nuts and bolts where possible ( in the holes that I could reach ) and rivets in the ones I couldn't reach easily. The first panel yesterday was awkward and difficult due to it mostly not lining up to start with and needing constant adjustment to get all the holes to line up. I'm pleased to say that the second and third panels that went up today actually went smoothly, all the holes lined up, well as near as dammit they did. Photos of today's labour below, And of course, the bedroom shot Hopefully it'll continue to be just as easy to fit the rest of the roof panels
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1968 Dodge Charger 1985 Chevrolet Camaro 1993 Toyota Hilux Surf 2001 Ford Mondeo
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Worth spending the time on the roof. Here, many of the shanty houses have tin roofs with bits of light timber or the odd car tyre seeming to be the approved fixing method. This works fine until the very second Typhoon Damien or whoever decides to whip through. The roofs then become veritable guillotines, whipping through the air and not happy until they are embedded in something soft and vulnerable. I've even seen bits of corrugated roof floating past my balcony, and we're on the 16th floor!
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Do your rivets have holes in them once fitted? I would be worried about leaks later on in less you seal them up...
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hopeso
Part of things
Posts: 340
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I built a metal shed from a kit of parts for a friend some years ago and it has served him well.
Putting the roof up was the worst bit as any mistake is magnified as you go along so make sure each bit is square before fixing it in place.
Some time spent with silicone sealer around the pop rivets and bolt heads will help to seal it from rain.
Condensation drippjng off the roof is the main problem with metal sheds. Some sort of insulation on the inside of the roof is needed with no gaps or you will have wet spots.
My friend kept a motorbike in his shed without sorting the condensation problem and in one winter it suffered quite badly.
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Rebel
Part of things
Posts: 343
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Worth spending the time on the roof. Here, many of the shanty houses have tin roofs with bits of light timber or the odd car tyre seeming to be the approved fixing method. This works fine until the very second Typhoon Damien or whoever decides to whip through. The roofs then become veritable guillotines, whipping through the air and not happy until they are embedded in something soft and vulnerable. I've even seen bits of corrugated roof floating past my balcony, and we're on the 16th floor! I've seen some of those shanty houses on TV, always wondered why the tyres were on the roof. I'm making sure that my roof is attached firmly, there's too much where there's pain there's a claim going on these days to just throw a couple tyres on it, lol Do your rivets have holes in them once fitted? I would be worried about leaks later on in less you seal them up... The rivets are solid when fitted, no need to worry about leaks from them. I built a metal shed from a kit of parts for a friend some years ago and it has served him well. Putting the roof up was the worst bit as any mistake is magnified as you go along so make sure each bit is square before fixing it in place. Some time spent with silicone sealer around the pop rivets and bolt heads will help to seal it from rain. Condensation drippjng off the roof is the main problem with metal sheds. Some sort of insulation on the inside of the roof is needed with no gaps or you will have wet spots. My friend kept a motorbike in his shed without sorting the condensation problem and in one winter it suffered quite badly. I'll be insulating it all and panelling over the insulation as well, I need it to be dry, warm and give me the ability of making some noise without annoying anyone. With the position of the shed in relation to the back wall of the garage it's unlikely I'll ever have any vehicles in it, sadly. But there will be power tools and electricity which can obviously be a worse combination
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1968 Dodge Charger 1985 Chevrolet Camaro 1993 Toyota Hilux Surf 2001 Ford Mondeo
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Rebel
Part of things
Posts: 343
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It's been a strange few days since the last update, I bought the shed as a 12x24, to make it fit the space I have available, I had to cut 3ft out of the length. Making it 12x21. Each panel ( side wall and roof ) is 3ft wide, so I should have two side panels and two roof panels left over but, I have four of each left over. According to the instructions, a 12x24 shed should have one central support truss for the roof and a 12x31 shed should have two. I have a second support truss left over. A 12x24 shed should have 12 "C" channel girders to support the roof panels, I have eighteen in total, so six left over. However, as well as all the spare bits, various parts of the sliding door that fills the gap on the side seem to be missing. Not to worry though, I can figure out a way round it when I need too. The good news is that no damage has occurred over the last few days during the gusts of wind that have been battering it. Just got to hope that storm Stella doesn't cause any harm on her way past. Anyhoo - work has progressed and the roof is nearly finished, there's just four panels left to fit. Having stood under the roof panels, it's going to be quite dark inside the finished shed, bearing this in mind, I'm going to leave out a couple of the metal roof panels and replace them with clear Perspex panels to allow some light in. I will obviously be fitting some lights once it's all together but it would be nice to not have to have them on all the time. Pics of where I'm upto and how it's looking so far.
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1968 Dodge Charger 1985 Chevrolet Camaro 1993 Toyota Hilux Surf 2001 Ford Mondeo
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Mar 17, 2017 11:45:14 GMT
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Hi, Good work. It sounds like its not the first time its length has been adjusted.
Colin
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Rebel
Part of things
Posts: 343
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I was thinking that, or it's been sat dismantled someone else than the guy I bought it off and some bits may have been misplaced. Of course some bits might have fallen out of the van it was delivered in, I suppose. It don't really matter because it means I have some spare bits and you can't go wrong with spare bits
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1968 Dodge Charger 1985 Chevrolet Camaro 1993 Toyota Hilux Surf 2001 Ford Mondeo
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Mar 19, 2017 11:45:14 GMT
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Enjoying reading your progress with this, should be a decent space when you're finished.
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Rebel
Part of things
Posts: 343
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Thanks, It'll definitely be a decent sized space when it's finished. It's a shame I couldn't follow my original plan of joining it to the back of my garage but I can work round that. Hoping the wind and rain will end so I can get some more done and finish the roof. Another update asap..........
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1968 Dodge Charger 1985 Chevrolet Camaro 1993 Toyota Hilux Surf 2001 Ford Mondeo
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Rebel
Part of things
Posts: 343
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Well, thanks to a few days glorious weather, the majority of the shed is finished. Still have the up and over door and side door to sort out before it's a complete, useable and secure. But for now, all the walls are up and the roof is completed, as well as the trim pieces that go round the edges of the roof. As well as the doors still to be completed, it still needs to be bolted down and fitted out ( looking forward to the fitting out part ). Now, I did say that I was going to swap a couple of roof panels for Perspex or polycarbonate sheet, in order to get some natural light in during the day. However, being unable to find any transparent panels that I could afford and being unable to wait for any used ones to show up on the bay of fleas or freecycle ( I did spend a couple days searching various sites with no luck), I just went a head and used metal panels for the whole roof. Anyhoo - here it is and the inside looks like this For the full space available, you'll have to imagine the inside empty, apart from the unused bits of shed, there appears to be some general household stuff that's sneaked its way in, for now! As the roof on my garage leaks when it rains, and the garage itself being full of the usual family orientated stuff, as well as all my tools etc. Meaning that it would be both impossible and impractical to remove / replace the existing roof. I originally thought of building the shed and putting everything from the garage into it. This would provide the ability to sort out the garage roof. All was going great until one day last week when I noticed that the roof lining in the garage was sitting a lot lower in one corner than usual. After poking ( gently from a distance ) it seems as though one of the roof support beams may have dropped a bit. That's why I couldn't afford to wait for any transparent panels to show up. So, the sooner I finish the shed, the better. I can always add some Perspex panels / windows at a later date though. And of course, once it's all,done, I'll carry on with updates on the garage as well. The last two pics for now might well look identical at first glance, they're both ariel shots, but the first one is before the final trim pieces went on, round the roof edges, the second one is with the trim added
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Last Edit: Mar 29, 2017 2:01:03 GMT by Rebel
1968 Dodge Charger 1985 Chevrolet Camaro 1993 Toyota Hilux Surf 2001 Ford Mondeo
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Looks great mate. Pics 1 & 3 links not working though, missing the ] at the end.
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You've made a nice job of that mate. I shouldn't worry about not having the perspex panels in the roof, they just age and go brittle in the end, plus they're a lot easier to break in to! Just fit LED lights, expensive initial outlay, but they last for ages and cost next to nothing to run. plus they're really bright.
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