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I see no photo
but looking forward to them, that's for sure!!
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July / Aug 2016 So its been a while since I posted anything. I have been making some progress on the car but its painfully slow as my spare time is quite limited. Here are some teardown pictures of a few bits.  Passengers side wishbone.  Bush looks ok but aged.  Little bit of cracking but probably still got a wee bit of life left. Still whilst its off I decided to replace it.  This bit slides into another bush. Think it should be rust free. Nothing some emery cloth will not sort out.  Cleaned up stub  Cut top of bush off - no going back now!  Bending centre in on top of itself.  Out the middle comes.  This was the easy bit.  Outer bush. This was much harder to get out. Note how chewed up it is from me trying to get it out.  Inside is clean though. Just need to dress the edges.  Whole bush. I will replace this later one I have painted / powder coated this wishbone and obtained a new bush.  The ABS unit looked like it could do with some TLC.  Whipped the lid off. This will come up nice with a bit of effort.  Looks clean enough inside.  Its been sitting in water in the scuttle due to a blocked drain. This fastener is badly corroded.  Its an odd oval shape.  I ended up cutting a slot in the middle and using a screwdriver to remove.  Thankfully the electronics do not seem to have suffered.  Some nice 1980's tech here. Looks in excellent condition. I assume it still works.  Part no for reference. Seems to be used on a number of cars. Looks like I will need to repair or replace the casing. Its got a hole in it from the corrosion. Plenty on ebay for not alot of money.  I tore the master cylinder down a bit more. Some bad corrosion where it mounts onto the servo.  Signs of corrosion internally also. Almost certainly needs replaced. From the prices on ebay it looks like this will be cheaper than an overhaul kit anyway.  Injectors removed from manifold. Will need to get these serviced.  ABS Controller mount. Needs electroplated.  Fuel rail. Again needs electroplated.  Part of the windscreen base. That's all for now. James |
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düdo
Part of things
wide as house
Posts: 770
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Nice attention to detail. You could have burnt that bush out and made some lovely black acrid smoke
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Nice attention to detail. You could have burnt that bush out and made some lovely black acrid smoke Actually the rubber bit was not too bad, it was the metal outer case that was the hard bit. I am sure some heat would have made a different but I did not fancy the smoke to be honest. |
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zook71
Part of things
Posts: 994 
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Just read the thread, hat off to you sir. I'd have probably replaced 90% of what you have refurbished, well done.
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1974 Triumph 2000
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So I decided to have a go at tearing the bumper down a little more. It needs a bit of work doing to it and a repaint. You may remember that the stiffener was very corroded also. Here are some pics of my process.  The bumper as it had came off the car.  On this pic you can see that the stiffener is held onto the bumper via some melted plastic tabs.  I used my heat gun to soften the tabs and pry the stiffener off from the bumper.  Coming off.  And its off. You can see in this shot the headlight washers and the bumper absorbers are still attached.  Bare bumper. Its alot lighter and less stiff now.  Bumper absorber attached to stiffener.  Headlight Washers off - I have a new one for the broken side.  Absorbers off. The stiffener looks way worse than it actually is from a corrosion perspective. It was originally galvanised. I will have it sand blasted and paint with some zinc primer and possibly epoxy paint.  Bumper absorbers. Note the sheared fasteners. These are the ones I broke when removing the bumper from the car. These are NFP from Peugeot and new ones are £100+ on ebay so I thought I would have a go at refurbishing these.  Closeup of sheared faster. Its plastic welded into the absorbers.    Heatgun used to melt plastic and remove brackets.  Melt melt....  Off it comes  I have tried to retain as much of the original plastic as I could to aid refitting.    Brackets are corroded. Its mostly surface rust though. Looks like they were originally zinc plated.  Into a bath of Deox C  After first 24hr dip.  After second dip and wire brush. Turned out pretty good. I need to get the fasteners drilled out and new ones welded in. I reckon a normal bolt with a bit of weld will do. I will then get the lot electroplated and re-attached to the absorber. Job for another day though.. James |
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Bookmarked...........I've just read through your post from the start and good on ya for keeping going on this.
You're doing sterling work, anything you need to know just ask.
I worked on these when they were new, i was a YTS lad and can remember these well.
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1980 Vauxhall Cavalier MK1
1970 Mobyleete 40T custom
1978 Mobylette 50V
1965 Moulton Standard
1979 Raleigh Grifter custom
1980 Raleigh Grifter
1982 Raleigh Grifter BMX custom
1982 Raleigh Bomber
1987 Strida
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Great stuff. Bookmarked.
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Still learning...still spending...still breaking things!
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Today I have inspected the throttle body and decided it could do with some sprucing up. Looks like mainly cosmetic things, but a few seals look like they have seen better days.  General side shot - Note its made by Weber!  Internal shot - I probably cleaned this in the past. Looks too clean.   Rear shot. Again very clean. I must have cleaned this out before. I did identify that the breather on the right of this picture was blocked. Managed to clear with a paper clip and plenty carb cleaner. Not sure the effect this would have (if any) as it only has a very small (must by a vacuum hose I guess) that goes to the oil cap.  In bits. It was fairly simple to teardown. Looks mostly serviceable with many parts shared with Weber Carbs. I need to identify some new oil seals and possibly some new bushes for the throttle plate shafts. Springs and a few of the cable holders will need plated. I will get the body vapour blasted. Should look good when its done. James |
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melle
South West
It'll come out in the wash.
Posts: 1,983
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I did identify that the breather on the right of this picture was blocked. Managed to clear with a paper clip and plenty carb cleaner. Not sure the effect this would have (if any) as it only has a very small (must by a vacuum hose I guess) that goes to the oil cap I guess the breather is part of the positive crankcase ventilation system? |
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www.saabv4.com'70 Saab 96 V4 "The Devil's Own V4" '77 Saab 95 V4 van conversion project '88 Saab 900i 8V
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it would be if it goes to the oil filler cap.
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The engine has been largely disconnected for a while now, but in order for me to dress the engine bay, refurb the engine, sort out subframe and address corrosion on the main support rails in the engine bay, the engine has to come out. I don't have an engine crane or a stand but a friend has offered to loan me them. I therefore spent some time today getting the engine more or less ready to come out.  Todays starting position  Removed engine water box  Reasonably clean inside.  Gear linkage removal  Gear linkage off - These look like I would be best just replacing with new. They are reasonably cheap on ebay. These are ok though, a wee bit worn and just really dirty.  Fancied a look under the cam cover  Remarkably clean - This was a refurbished head but I had worried that 8+ years without moving may have resulted in corrosion. I turned the engine over by hand at this point to ensure everything moved ok. It did!  Exhaust Manifold off. I had painted this before it went on the last time but it has not lasted well at all. I probably never cured the paint problem as it nearly run.  Rear water manifold and hoses. These are a bit crusty. I'll try and replace as much as I can. There are a few nice options for the 205 Gti and the 405Mi16 but not for the Sri. I bet I could use hoses from both kits. Will probably give Baker BM a phone at some point.  Engine ready to come out. Only held on by 2 engine mounts and a trolley jack.  Rear engine view - Driveshaft still to come out.  Waterbox  Drivers side wing ready to be stripped.  Strut out - Like the passenger side time has not been kind, even though the car has barely moved.  Inner wing - Drivers side.  Long driveshaft - Bearing is a bit tight but not feeling particularly worn. Shaft and boots could do with a spruce up. Looking at pricesfor parts vs a replacement it looks like a replacement will be cheaper than an overhaul.  Aluminium parts - I have sent these to be vapour blasted. Have never done this before but I have been impressed by the results I have seen from others. Lets see how they go. That's the lot for now. James |
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Top work.
Are you going to take advantage of all this stripping and fit some modified/upgraded parts?
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Still learning...still spending...still breaking things!
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Top work. Are you going to take advantage of all this stripping and fit some modified/upgraded parts? Not really sure at this point. I guess some things may need to be modernised as result of unavailability (or silly pricing) of original parts? Not given the engine much thought yet, but I did observe that the throttle body could be machined out a couple of mm if I wished. I am considering porting and polishing but I don't fancy paying for a professional job and am unsure if I have the skills to do a good job myself. At the moment I am thinking keep it as original as I can, clean, tidy but not necessarily a concourse job. Happy to take any upgrade suggestions anyone has though!  |
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melle
South West
It'll come out in the wash.
Posts: 1,983
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Apparently VAG, Citroen XM and a few other PSA-type throttle bodies have the same stud spacing and larger butterflies. |
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www.saabv4.com'70 Saab 96 V4 "The Devil's Own V4" '77 Saab 95 V4 van conversion project '88 Saab 900i 8V
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Apparently VAG, Citroen XM and a few other PSA-type throttle bodies have the same stud spacing and larger butterflies. May do a little research here  |
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I have been stripping a lot off the car recently and have not really made any refurbishment progress, so I decided to refurb the exhaust manifold to get my refurb mojo.  Crusty looking manifold as removed from the car.  Part of the fasteners were stuck due to corrosion. Needed to give these a tap out.    Attacked with a wire brush. It did ok but not well enough  Deox C bath made up.  In it goes  I was very impressed by the results of the Deox C. The rust fell off when it came out. You can see the tide mark where the fluid has been up to. Quick finish off with wire brush and its ready for paint.  I made use of Hycote Extreme Heat Balck which I saw on another thread.  Painting in progress  I ended up using the entire tin. Was not going to need it again.  Cured in the wifes oven. She was out - no pics as I don't want her to see the evidence. Luckily she does not read car forums    I am really chuffed how this turned out. Looks really good. Probably would have preferred silver but the shop only had black. That's all for today. James |
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great work and great thread, really enjoyed reading your progress. my dad had a 405 (non sri) and I have fond memories of it, much better than the mondeo that replaced it...
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if the joints are good on the shafts i would keep them and fit new boots, gkn or oem i fibd are best. avoid anything stretchy non direct fit.
replacement shafts these days don't last like owm stuff
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