Hello, recently i got a hold on Weber TLDM 28/32 with inlet manifold. It was taken from 1.4 1988 escort (mk4). But it was straight fit so i tired it out, but there are some problems with it.
1. First - When engine isnt fully warm opening choke results in engine dying, even if its 20 celcius outside. Plus it gathers some dew on choke valve.
2. Quickly pushing gas results in engine stalling and like "throwing" out some air back, nearly dying and after about 1 second lag it reacts, pushing it evenly everything is ok.
3. When engine is fully warm u can open choke (its manual) and engine don't die, but then floating RPM happen, they float from 1,300 to 800. Engine can even die sometimes and wont start until u close choke again.
I filmed what happens here are links:
When choke is closed, engine cold
When choke is fully opened, engine warm, floating RPM
Since I'm really bad with carbs i think i might have messed something up.
P.s Carb before was problematic "Ford VV" with automatic choke, I still have it so if all else fails there is no other way, looking for as much suggestions as possible.
Some photos, they are messy - sorry.
Carb close look
Overview of all the vacuum mess
Green color represents vacuum hoses going to brake "bubble" thingy and another goes to distributor.
All other color represent their original "connectors and hoses" colors which are there
Blue and Red hoses go to "Christmas tree" connector under the carb.
White is really strange i have no idea what it is doing and if its connected right, but i connected everything based only on their connectors and hoses colors
Close up of white thingy and its strange thingies. :?
1.
Strange connected mess, red hose goes up from "Christmas tree" connector and connects to vacuum from distributor, another green line goes to choke connector.
The green dotted line is the continuation of the green vacuum line from distributor which meets red hose in picture above and ends there.
The red/green one is connected to distributor vacuum.
What any of these colors mean - I have no idea. Any info would be gladly appreciated, because i suck badly at this.
1. First - When engine isnt fully warm opening choke results in engine dying, even if its 20 celcius outside. Plus it gathers some dew on choke valve.
2. Quickly pushing gas results in engine stalling and like "throwing" out some air back, nearly dying and after about 1 second lag it reacts, pushing it evenly everything is ok.
3. When engine is fully warm u can open choke (its manual) and engine don't die, but then floating RPM happen, they float from 1,300 to 800. Engine can even die sometimes and wont start until u close choke again.
I filmed what happens here are links:
When choke is closed, engine cold
When choke is fully opened, engine warm, floating RPM
Since I'm really bad with carbs i think i might have messed something up.
P.s Carb before was problematic "Ford VV" with automatic choke, I still have it so if all else fails there is no other way, looking for as much suggestions as possible.
Some photos, they are messy - sorry.
Carb close look
Overview of all the vacuum mess
Green color represents vacuum hoses going to brake "bubble" thingy and another goes to distributor.
All other color represent their original "connectors and hoses" colors which are there
Blue and Red hoses go to "Christmas tree" connector under the carb.
White is really strange i have no idea what it is doing and if its connected right, but i connected everything based only on their connectors and hoses colors
Close up of white thingy and its strange thingies. :?
1.
Strange connected mess, red hose goes up from "Christmas tree" connector and connects to vacuum from distributor, another green line goes to choke connector.
The green dotted line is the continuation of the green vacuum line from distributor which meets red hose in picture above and ends there.
The red/green one is connected to distributor vacuum.
What any of these colors mean - I have no idea. Any info would be gladly appreciated, because i suck badly at this.
