|
|
Jul 21, 2014 19:21:41 GMT
|
Hope I'm not teaching granny to suck eggs,but to rule out earthing fault use a jump lead on engine block straight to neg terminal on battery.
I had earthing issues on my old series 3 ,so put 3 earth leads on it, two from engine to chassis,one from gearbox to chassis. That cured it!
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Jul 21, 2014 21:59:00 GMT
|
I hadnt tried that, ill be honest. Ill give it a go. For such a simple job as a clean up of the earth points i was more focused on the curse word attached to them now! Ill have a go, cheers
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
The Lucas 4CU flapper injection system can develop lots of issues with age. I have the same system on my TVR.
I'd strongly advise getting hold of a copy of the factory workshop manual. This includes a full series of diagnostic checks, which can be carried out with no more than a normal multimeter.
Ensuring that all the sensors are working correctly, and that things such as the throttle potentiometer are correctly set, are vital.
Also, check carefully for vacuum leaks from old, dry, split hoses.
Also PLEASE check the condition of any flexible fuel hoses - including those at the injectors.
With regard to your ignition system, it looks like someone has fitted the wrong ignition amplifier. Yours should be a two pin amplifier, that looks to be a three pin.
An adaptor lead is available, or just buy the correct amplifier.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
The Lucas 4CU flapper injection system can develop lots of issues with age. I have the same system on my TVR. I'd strongly advise getting hold of a copy of the factory workshop manual. This includes a full series of diagnostic checks, which can be carried out with no more than a normal multimeter. Ensuring that all the sensors are working correctly, and that things such as the throttle potentiometer are correctly set, are vital. Also, check carefully for vacuum leaks from old, dry, split hoses. Also PLEASE check the condition of any flexible fuel hoses - including those at the injectors. With regard to your ignition system, it looks like someone has fitted the wrong ignition amplifier. Yours should be a two pin amplifier, that looks to be a three pin. An adaptor lead is available, or just buy the correct amplifier. Hi mate cheers for the reply - ive got the run through of checks from an SD1 site, i hoped to get it sorted this weekend. Its difficult as its not on the driveway so i have to be able to get away from the wife to spend a decent amount of time on it. Will the incorrect igntion amplifier be causing my problems? From reading up on LR forums when people have gone from 2 pin to 3 pin they seem to have just missed a pin out, as mine is. Until i can realistically say that the basics are covered its all guesswork i suppose, which ill answer asap. Fuel, compression, spark.
|
|
Last Edit: Jul 22, 2014 9:20:17 GMT by oasis6x
|
|
|
|
Jul 22, 2014 10:06:12 GMT
|
The Lucas 4CU flapper injection system can develop lots of issues with age. I have the same system on my TVR. I'd strongly advise getting hold of a copy of the factory workshop manual. This includes a full series of diagnostic checks, which can be carried out with no more than a normal multimeter. Ensuring that all the sensors are working correctly, and that things such as the throttle potentiometer are correctly set, are vital. Also, check carefully for vacuum leaks from old, dry, split hoses. Also PLEASE check the condition of any flexible fuel hoses - including those at the injectors. With regard to your ignition system, it looks like someone has fitted the wrong ignition amplifier. Yours should be a two pin amplifier, that looks to be a three pin. An adaptor lead is available, or just buy the correct amplifier. Hi mate cheers for the reply - ive got the run through of checks from an SD1 site, i hoped to get it sorted this weekend. Its difficult as its not on the driveway so i have to be able to get away from the wife to spend a decent amount of time on it. Will the incorrect igntion amplifier be causing my problems? From reading up on LR forums when people have gone from 2 pin to 3 pin they seem to have just missed a pin out, as mine is. Until i can realistically say that the basics are covered its all guesswork i suppose, which ill answer asap. Fuel, compression, spark. As regards the ignition amp, I couldn't honestly say, as I don't know what the purpose of the third pin is for. It's very important to be methodical with this injection system. Start off by checking there's adequate fuel pressure under load, if you can. I ran a temporary fuel pressure gauge into the cabin so I could check the FPR was working properly, and that the fuel pump was delivering properly. After that, run through all the 'cold' checks. Ensure senders read correctly at given temperatures, TPS and AFM read correctly and linearly etc. If you have problems after that, it's most likely dry joints on the ECU. The 4CU boards are beautifully built, and very high quality, but are prone to dry joints. Quite often on the Power Transistors which drive the injectors. Once you've ruled all of that out, you can start hunting down ignition issues. Stick with it. Fuel injected Rover V8s are beautiful, and an 80s RR Classic is one of the best cars it ever found a home in !
|
|
Last Edit: Jul 22, 2014 10:07:30 GMT by misterbob
|
|
|
|
Jul 22, 2014 11:01:12 GMT
|
Some useful stuff.... linky
|
|
Koos
|
|
|
|
Jul 22, 2014 12:14:04 GMT
|
Some useful stuff.... linkyUnfortunately Mark, that page gives information on the later, hotwire, gems and sagem systems. This car is running the early 4CU injection system. A VERY different beast altogether.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Jul 22, 2014 12:19:01 GMT
|
Take a look here, lots of good infohttp://www.vintagemodelairplane.com/
The 4CU system was unique to early EFI Range Rovers, Rover SD1, Triumph TR8 and other low volume sports cars using the SD1 Vitesse drive train. I.e TVR 350i Morgan +8 etc.
By far though, the best resource you can have, is the factory workshop manual.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Jul 23, 2014 10:27:44 GMT
|
Well after much digging in the shed i finally found a 21mm plug spanner to 'read' the plugs. They all came out easily and id even say some of them werent up to torque. So, running rich as richie rich. Ill regap and clean these up rather than replace as they look quite new - and test them too, and as a result of their colour ill give the CTS a change. Now i can crack on with the resistance readings from all the sensors.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Jul 23, 2014 13:58:56 GMT
|
With plugs like that BPs profits will drop when you fix it! Found this little nugget on the RPI site... If I had another rover v8 the first thing I'd do us junk the dizzy etc and 'Squirt it.
|
|
Koos
|
|
|
|
|
Jul 23, 2014 17:55:29 GMT
|
Doesn't that relate to the carb version? I've had the rev counter fail and it takes its lead off the alternator (poor connection). Not sure if I've taken on the best engine as I can see myself chasing this problem all over the bay.
|
|
Last Edit: Jul 23, 2014 18:05:46 GMT by oasis6x
|
|
squonk
Part of things
Posts: 858
|
|
Jul 23, 2014 22:42:36 GMT
|
A very common cause of rough running is the mechanical advance bob weights becoming disconnected from their return springs. This happens when the rotor arm is changed simply by pulling it up without holding the reluctor down. The distributor shaft moves upwards and the springs fall off. The easy way to check is to remove the distributor cap and try to turn the rotor arm. It should turn a little and then spring back. If it doesn't turn at all or doesn't spring back then it needs stripping and the mechanical advance putting back together.
I also notice that your dizzy cap is black which suggests that it is not genuine (genuine ones were always blue). The rotor arm is probably aftermarket as well. You'd be surprised as to how much difference genuine ignition parts make with these engines.
One of my Range Rovers had an RPi V8 fitted in the late nineties. After experiencing the 'quality' of this build I would never go near them again.
|
|
Last Edit: Jul 23, 2014 22:45:35 GMT by squonk
2004 Chevrolet Avalanche Z71 2005 Mercedes CLK320 Cabriolet 1996 Mercedes C180 Elegance Auto Saloon 1996 Rover 620Ti (Dead fuel pump) 1992 Toyota HiLux Surf 1987 Range Rover Vogue (Rusty) 1992 Range Rover Vogue SE (More Rusty) 2006 Chrysler Grand Voyager 2008 Corsa 1.4 Design
|
|
|
|
Jul 23, 2014 23:34:47 GMT
|
OK, rich running is usually the fault of the coolant temperature sensor failing. The engine thinks it's permanently cold, hence will be over enriching the mixture.
I'll say it again though. It pays to be methodical. Follow the factory check list, and do all the dry checks first.
Incidentally, your Range Rover won't have any of the aforementioned ignition amplifiers. It should have a two-pin ignition amp, mounted to the side of the distributor. Sadly, a lot of modern production ignition amps are junk. I'm suffering from this with the TVR at the moment.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Jul 23, 2014 23:50:03 GMT
|
Whilst your at it, get onto RangeRovers.net for another mine of information.
For parts I like Rimmer Bros as they offer genuine, OEM and cheapo stuff. Pays your money, takes your choice.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
send me youre emailadres, have a little surprise 87-91 workshop manual
|
|
Last Edit: Jul 24, 2014 10:16:38 GMT by collector
|
|
squonk
Part of things
Posts: 858
|
|
|
Check to see if that manual actually covers the flapper system. The section was deleted from the later manuals.
I can let you have pdf copies of Land Rovers training manuals for this system which give a full description as to how it works along with the correct test procedures.
This system is based on a Bosch system designed in the seventies and built under licence by Lucas. I also have the Bosch manual for it somewhere if thats of any help too.
|
|
Last Edit: Jul 24, 2014 9:37:27 GMT by squonk
2004 Chevrolet Avalanche Z71 2005 Mercedes CLK320 Cabriolet 1996 Mercedes C180 Elegance Auto Saloon 1996 Rover 620Ti (Dead fuel pump) 1992 Toyota HiLux Surf 1987 Range Rover Vogue (Rusty) 1992 Range Rover Vogue SE (More Rusty) 2006 Chrysler Grand Voyager 2008 Corsa 1.4 Design
|
|
|
|
Jul 24, 2014 10:17:56 GMT
|
Check to see if that manual actually covers the flapper system. The section was deleted from the later manuals. I can let you have pdf copies of Land Rovers training manuals for this system which give a full description as to how it works along with the correct test procedures. This system is based on a Bosch system designed in the seventies and built under licence by Lucas. I also have the Bosch manual for it somewhere if thats of any help too. Is it actually called a flapper system in the manual? or has it a more tecnical term. I am dutch so a lot of english "dialect" goes to waste for me .
|
|
|
|
|
|
Jul 24, 2014 12:19:07 GMT
|
It's called the 4CU system.
It's the only one with a cold start injector, which gives you a clue!
|
|
|
|
|
|
Jul 24, 2014 12:47:00 GMT
|
Theres more info in the manual abt this if this is what youre looking for ? i have a total of 97GB in car manuals and 65 gb in motorcycle manuals all digital (pdf) ,is a hobby that somewhat got out of hand !
|
|
Last Edit: Jul 24, 2014 12:51:39 GMT by collector
|
|
squonk
Part of things
Posts: 858
|
|
Jul 24, 2014 19:05:17 GMT
|
Take a look at the wiring diagram, if it has a cold start injector its a flapper system. If not, its hot wire.
|
|
2004 Chevrolet Avalanche Z71 2005 Mercedes CLK320 Cabriolet 1996 Mercedes C180 Elegance Auto Saloon 1996 Rover 620Ti (Dead fuel pump) 1992 Toyota HiLux Surf 1987 Range Rover Vogue (Rusty) 1992 Range Rover Vogue SE (More Rusty) 2006 Chrysler Grand Voyager 2008 Corsa 1.4 Design
|
|
|