grumpy
Part of things
Posts: 557
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Mar 11, 2013 17:27:37 GMT
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Kettle tea bags milk big @@ck off mug . Beer/scotch/rum for when it goes bad . Ha ha .
Seriously though might have overlooked the obvious but a good sturdy workbench and a good heavy vice , you really can't do anything with out them .
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Last Edit: Mar 11, 2013 17:30:58 GMT by grumpy
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Mar 11, 2013 17:49:14 GMT
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Phone number of a mate who can come round as required! Even if its only to have a second opinion on something that you've been trying to sort on your own for a while.
Sometimes a second pair of eyes will stop you putting the hammer thru the thing thats causing you grief .....
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RobinJI
Posted a lot
"Driven by the irony that only being shackled to the road could ever I be free"
Posts: 2,995
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Mar 11, 2013 17:54:45 GMT
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....a 3M filtered face mask..... I'm a huge fan of these too, so much nicer than having a separate mask and goggles, and you end up wearing it for anything, where as with them separate you tend to wear one or the other a lot. They're also amazing for when you're attacking underseal/filler/anything else that kicks up dust. The field of vision's really good, much better than most goggles and they're pretty comfy with the strap arrangement. I really can't recommend them enough. This is the sort that me and James use (and everyone at my work):  The only downside's that they don't work well with glasses as they tend not to seal properly and then they steam up, not many effective goggles do work with glasses though. (They come with stick on disposable lense protector things, which keeps the screen scratch/spark/spatter/over-spray free too.) |
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dan91
Part of things
Posts: 416
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Mar 11, 2013 23:49:02 GMT
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Singer Chamois Sport, and thanks for the input everyone. Link to body panel thread?  Thanks. |
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Mar 12, 2013 11:34:16 GMT
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I agree with many of the above sugestions. But some depends on how much of a restoration you are doing.
If you're planning to strip the car fully to a bare shell and then weld up lots of rust before paint and rebuild the list is a little different to just stripping the running gear out and a couple of patches welding before refurbishing and refitting.
Stuff i would recomend for either:
Take lots of pictures as you take it apart
Get some freezer bags (with the label bit) in different sizes and store nuts bolts and smaller components in them and label what they are.
Label larger items if they are multiples with string label tags
Group stuff together when storing them (brakes/ electrics/ locks/etc) so you don't spend as long finding all the bits when your trying to rebuild
If something is causing a problem and you're getting angry with it, WALK AWAY come back another day and have a go or get a friend to help.
If you're loosing motivation have a few days away from it, go to a car show and rebuild your mojo. Working on it when you aren't fully motivated isn't worth it.
If you are going to strip it right down and it needs more than a couple of patches or you want to clean the floorpan to bare metal.
I highly recommend you put the shell on a spit.
Yes its more work to get it mounted, and you'll either have to buy or build the spit but it will save you hours of time and allow a much much better job of any work you do.
Also the spit can be sold on when you finish
Finally angle grinders, cheap ones are fine if you are only going to use them for short periods. Because the cheap ones don't cool aswell as the better quality ones, and the heat is what kills most of them. Having multiple grinders helps here.
Also if you buy a cheap one first job is to take the gearbox cover off (3 or 4 screws behind where the disc fixes) and add a bit of grease to the gears, cheap grinders have very little/no grease in here normally and the gears wear very quickly.
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Mar 12, 2013 12:16:42 GMT
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I made the mistake of immediately attacking the full resto after buying a car, instead of just having repaired a rear axle and then driving the car first. Now I would have repaired that, then next winter rebuilt the engine and then some nice stuff, and finally the body. Currently I have a fully striped down body in my garden, and the rebuilt engine in another car, which hopefully will be driveable this summer...
My input which I haven't already been posted:
- gear wrenches (if not already in the toolbox). Some nuts and bolts in the engine compartment etc can be hard to access. The socket wrench won't fit, and with a normal one you'll be working for some time...
- not a must have, but can help/save, is an air compressor with a good gun. Some bolts and nults come nicely with that, and if you try to unbolt them with just brute force, they snap and you might be into a lot of work.
- good lamps. I have a lamp with a magnet holder so easy to put on the body or any metal on the car, but when it's not possible I use a head lamp ie when working under the car.
- disposable gloves for really messy jobs so that you can use your good gloves more than once
- I have work shoes (the kind with the strengthend tip), which I just slip on when going to the garage. It helps avoiding crushing your toes/legs when dropping the malet / alternator / gearbox on your feet
And remember 95% of the time, the 5min jobs are 30-60min jobs, and the 30-60min jobs take 2-6h or more.
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Renault Laguna Sport Tourer 2.0dCi 178hp -11 // Renault Laguna 2.0T -03 // Renault Clio 1.4 8V -00 // Renault Safrane 2.2 -94 // Renault 11 1.4 T -84 // Renault 11 1.4 T -88 // Renault 11 1.7 TXE -86 // Renault 11 1.4GTL -85 // Renault 5 1.3 TS -79// Renault 11 1.4GTS -84
Link to build thread |
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Mar 20, 2013 14:54:38 GMT
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a good vice and some blunt chisels, it's amazing the amount of repair work you can do with those items!
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Mar 23, 2013 12:43:14 GMT
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As has been mentioned, a roll of poly bags and a felt tip pen to keep/idenify componets. Plus gas penetrating fluid. Decent screw drivers and a set of breaker bars to avoid having to use screwdrivers!
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Thanks.
