Mgb wings.. How do they attach?!

MAGIC!

That's how. Or aren't MGB wings supposed to be held on with filler? Surely that's the standard issue repair, with a dose of GRP if you're feeling really decadent?

I know, I know, I'm not being at all helpful. I'll get my coat.

See you later.

That'd be great. I don't however think the bodywork is covered in the Haynes manual. But, it has got me thinking.. I will see if moss have a picture of wing fittings. Cheers dude

Found this on tinterweb, ''Before fitting the wing the bodywork underneath must be in sound condition and have been suitably preserved. Follow this link - Bulkhead and Inner Wing Repairs - to visit the page describing these repairs. Before starting it is necessary to remove the dashboard to give access to fixings on the inside of the scuttle. Fortunately MGB front wings bolts-on which makes life a little easier for the home restorer. New fixing bolts should be used and these can be bought as a kit along with the new wing. During the fitting process the wing will need to be trial-fitted several times before the desired fit is obtained. It is important to always fit it and remove it by the same sequence of screws each time. Otherwise each time you fit the wing, it may not be in exactly the same position and getting a proper fit will be very difficult. The wing has a natural leading edge, which should be bolted on first. That is the edge along the top of the scuttle and this is fixed by four 5/16th UNF set-screws with large heavy-duty oval washers fitted from inside behind the dashboard. A certain amount of fore/aft adjustment is possible here. On a Roadster this edge is straight and fore/aft movement is possible. On a GT there is a diagonal shape at this point to clear the windscreen pillar and only a small amount of adjustment is available by the use of suitable shims between the scuttle and the wing on the diagonal. Next bolt on the nine 5/16th UNF set-screws along the bonnet line. Large round washers are used except for the two set screw nearest the scuttle, which should have rectangular washers. The bonnet should be in place at this point to aid alignment. The bonnet is aligned with the scuttle and the wing can then be aligned with the bonnet. Fore and aft adjustment of the wing can be made to allow the front edge of the wing to align with the leading edge of the bonnet. Once this adjustment has been made the three ¼ UNF set-screws with large washers can be put into place down the inside of the wing by the grill aperture.'' Hope this helps.

Matt, you forgot this:



As recommended by the AA as a suitable repair for sills and other reasonable sized repairs where your pog may sag if not supported.

Obviously some of this also comes under the AA authorised repair methods and is very handy when combined with any/all of the important methods you demonstrated above:



Rich, if in doubt, you can always rely on the highly esteemed 'Celica Steve Repair' system if you really feel ready to tackle that level of high quality bodywork crafting?




I think I left my coat here last time....oh yes, there it is.... ;D

Just use the force.

Also found this, probably a bit more useful.

On each front wing there are 3 screws and bolts with oblong washers which secure the bottom of the wing to the sill. I removed these and refitted them, adding four 2BA brass washers to each screw to act as spacers between the wing and sill. This creates a 3mm gap to allow drainage. It is also a good idea to replace the screws and nuts with brass 2BA's.

Thanks guys! Very useful!

somebody on teabay sells the oval washers in stainless - for MGA's IIRC

LOL factory panel gaps set with a feeler gauge that consisted of a rizla paper, the packet and a blokes fingers. Aslong as you can get one or all in the gaps then its good.