will930
Part of things
Decked K11 Micra - RetroRunner Mk2 Golf
Posts: 521
|
|
|
|
in a few weeks ill be stripping the entire underside my my car and removing any rust and loose factory underseal and treating the rust with red oxide primer and then black hammerite. however nthe entire underside of my car I wish to cover with fresh underseal, which is where I'm a little confused as I have the option of....  which is what ive used at the bodyshop ive worked for but I don't feel its the best as it seems to dry relatively quickly, and I'm after something that say in a years time will still tacky in a way or happy to take another coat and a clean up.  this kind of thing I have never used before, but I feel with it being brush on I can make it nice and even but I also feel that I wont be able to build it up as well. also with it being hammerite and boasting added waxoyl I feel it would in theory last longer??? or the option of this?  in black however i could use clear to update every year so what else of this type have people used previously? also with cavity wax what would people suggest? something like this? for the sills etc? k3VtkBQYw5DhDC!~~60_12.JPG) thanks for reading and I hope you can all be very helpful, as I would love for my corolla to last another 25 years have some pictures of other rusty cars that may need some rust proofing...    thanks again  |
| |
Last Edit: Nov 5, 2012 21:33:24 GMT by will930
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
I've been told dinotrol for the cavorts so await input from other members with anticipation
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
I good water based stone chip will be a good start. I'd stay away from bituminous stone chip as it can let water get behind it
|
| |
|
|
fred
Posted a lot
WTF has happened to all the Vennies?
Posts: 2,957
|
|
|
|
|
Never had a problem with the Hammerite underbody sealer
Not used Dinitrol, used waxoyl which I guess is similar stuff
|
| |
'79 Cossie ran Cortina - Sold
2000 Fozzer 2.0 turbo snow beast
'85 Opel Manta GSI - Sold
03 A class Mercedes
Looking for a FD Ventora - Anyone?
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
these days I go for Upol gravitex stonechip on the underside www.qpaints.co.uk/upol-grey-gravitex-1l.htmland Bilt Hamber dynax S50 in the cavities www.bilthamber.com/dynax-s50I stay away from underseal as its a nightmare to remove as stated can trap moisture. with stonechip,you can see the damage to the paintwork cavity wax technology has moved on from the days of waxoyl, it dries out and cracks with age and then flakes off, so then its lets water in then panels rot from the inside out ohh and when you say "red oxide primer" thats just a colouring, these days I prime the underneath with water based rust converters like vatcan www.paco-systems.co.uk/vactan.htmlor bilt hamber hydrate 80 www.bilthamber.com/hydrate-80 |
| |
Last Edit: Nov 6, 2012 8:29:47 GMT by optima21
|
|
will930
Part of things
Decked K11 Micra - RetroRunner Mk2 Golf
Posts: 521
|
|
|
|
Thanks for the replies so far, please keep them coming |
| |
|
|
taurus
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,084
|
|
|
|
|
Dinitrol Cavity Wax 3125 - I use that for cavities and for a first coat on the underside. Then use their underbody wax 4941 over that. Available in aerosol and cheaper to buy off them via Ebay than off their own website.
The Hammerite underbody seal is useless - it won't keep rust at bay for long.
Waxoyl doesn't penetrate very well - if I have to use that I mix it 50/50 with new cheap 20W/50 engine oil and get it good and hot before spraying it on.
|
| |
|
|
OUTRUN
Part of things
13...
Posts: 620
|
|
|
|
|
3M sealer. Comes in bags. Costs a fair whack, but rumour has it, it's the best stuff out there.
UPOL Gravitex gets the nod from me too, I have personally used this and it is great.
|
| |
I need your help to get back to the year 1985.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
When i take a floor down to bare metal i always treat with several layers of Bilt-Hamber Hydrate80 rust inhibitor/convertor over all the metal (new and old) Also all new metal gets coated on the inside aswell before welding on, especially the sills. Then i add a couple of layers of brushed on paint either rustoleum, POR15 or similar With that dry and hardened i then apply seam sealer around the edges of any panel joins/seams etc About a week later when thats set well i spray 2 or 3 layers of U-Pol Gravitex on the underside, leaving a day between coats. (this can be painted over apparently but it comes in black,grey or white so i don't bother) Another week or so for that to be really well set and i liberally add Bilt-Hamber Dynax S50 to all the cavities, sills, chassis rails and inner 1/4 panels etc (doing this before any of the other treatments will cause problems as it leaks out from drain holes etc and won't let the other products grip the metal. Of course its a lot easier to do when the car shell is on a spit and can be rotated around (especially to get the cavity wax everywhere inside box sections)  |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Have another vote for gravitex from me, i've used it a lot and its great stuff.
|
| |
1977 datsun 810 180b estate |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
id suggest you de rust it best you can
2 coats of epoxy primer ..like jotamastic or epoxy mastic , that will leave it bomb proof , if you like then go over it with some gloss enamel
that way you can wash it over and see whats happening rather than new scabs being hidden under a inch of slop
imo all underseal does is hide rust not stop it
|
| |
91 golf g60, 89 golf 16v , 88 polo breadvan
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
I did my F's subframe, cleaned it up first:  MGF subframe removed by Jibijib, on Flickr Zinc 182 primer:  MGF sorting subframe by Jibijib, on Flickr Then used Gravitex stonechip, I rate this stuff highly, spray it on with a gun and it'll have that lovely 'factory' rippled effect:  MGF subframe - stonechip by Jibijib, on Flickr  MGF subframe - stonechip by Jibijib, on Flickr And then used good old 2 pack black paint:  Black gloss 2-pack paint by Jibijib, on Flickr  Subframe painted in gloss black by Jibijib, on Flickr  MGF Subframe by Jibijib, on Flickr It's still holding up three years later! I don't like hammerite as it's messy and seems to chip easily. Don't like the straight to rust thing, and only seems fit for gates. |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
What would you guys use if you don't have a compressor ? It's bad don't have much in the way of tools and only a driveway to do it on.
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Upol raptor truck bed liner wins hands down for me  ,best product I've ever used!,it comes in tint able form or black,we've tweaked the mix a bit to suit what we do at work but we use it on every car we do,it's tough as anything and sticks like s@it to blanket,it can also be touched up without any prep apart from makin sure it's clean |
| |
Well you will mess with these cars....
Mk4 golf gttdi highline. Mk2 golf 1.8T
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
the gravitex can be brushed on, thats how I did it, you need a few coats though. ohh and I did it on a driveway too  although I wouldnt want to be working on a driveway at this time of year, as unless its a mild day, there is likely to be too much water vapour in the air (look at cars in the morning that are covered in frost or condensation) and its too cold for the paint (if you use rust converters it can take a 12 hours to change colour) |
| |
Last Edit: Nov 9, 2012 7:27:57 GMT by optima21
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
jotun epoxy primer can be brushed and with winter harder used in cold temps too
|
| |
91 golf g60, 89 golf 16v , 88 polo breadvan
|
|
|
|
|
Nov 13, 2012 17:32:33 GMT
|
|
UPOL Gravitex sounds good.
How many litres would I need to give a couple of coats by brush on the underside of a small/medium saloon?
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Nov 13, 2012 20:45:57 GMT
|
UPOL Gravitex sounds good. How many litres would I need to give a couple of coats by brush on the underside of a small/medium saloon? Dunno about brushing, but I would guess at 4, I spray it on, it drys matt, so you may want to overpaint it with a gloss colour, it goes on better sprayed though! |
| |
|
|
mikeymk
Part of things
'85 Polo Coupe S 1.6 16v
Posts: 931
|
|
|
|
|
Whatever you use, it doesn't wanna be anywhere resembling outside anywhere near December.
The panelwork wants to be warm, and thoroughly dried out. Like a few days dried. Unheated, even a garage is gonna have you aiming into the wind, with possibly years taken off the results.
|
| |
|
|
will930
Part of things
Decked K11 Micra - RetroRunner Mk2 Golf
Posts: 521
|
|
Nov 20, 2012 23:46:49 GMT
|
|
whats done is done now I'm affraid
|
| |
|
|
|
|
,best product I've ever used!,it comes in tint able form or black,we've tweaked the mix a bit to suit what we do at work but we use it on every car we do,it's tough as anything and sticks like s@it to blanket,it can also be touched up without any prep apart from makin sure it's clean
