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New Car!BenzBoy
@benzboy
Club Retro Rides Member 7
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Retro brown interior loveliness! Good purchase. What kind of tweaks can be done to the existing engine? I bet there's a few extra horsies that can be freed up with very little outlay  |
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New Car!milfordcubicle
@GUEST
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Kwalitee slab of Japanese '80s blandness there. |
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RetroMat
Posted a lot
Column Shifting!
Posts: 3,442
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next question! i'm trying to adjust the clutch cable as the bite is a bit high and its tough to get it in to some gears, which way am I supposed to be adjusting it?  |
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Last Edit: Jan 3, 2007 20:27:53 GMT by RetroMat
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slater
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,390
Club RR Member Number: 78
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New Car!slater
@slater
Club Retro Rides Member 78
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Too move the bite down the pedal you need to slacken it off a bit. (undo the nut a bit)
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I never got round to measuring PCD - one option might be to check out later model 323 for some slightly wider steels? It looks as if you'd be looking out for the 1.6i model to get 5x13's, on which I would have gone for 175/70's (not being a fan of stretch look!). Ideal donor would be a rotted out 1500GT of the same age - bigger engine with twin carb's, wider wheels (alloys on some) and anti-roll bar. If you were really lucky you'd find a TWR version, some were cosmetics only but they did do tuning stuff too. Thinking about the idling thing, it may help if you stuck a new thermostat on to help it warm up quicker? I would have said check it's on the winter air intake setting, but I think I made sure that had been switched over. I got caught by the flooding thing too when RM was here, slightly embarrassingly Edit: Think Sao Penza was following model of 323? I know that's the only one we got here, but I'd love to know if they built this one too. |
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RetroMat
Posted a lot
Column Shifting!
Posts: 3,442
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thermostat is on order from local motor factors £3! should arrive tomorrow along with other service bits and pieces.
One of my next door neighbors has a later next model (87)323 saloon which he is planning on breaking in a few months when the mot runs out which might be a good source of bits, I'm trying to find out what parts were carryied on from the 81-85 model.
As for p.c.d. google reveals :
Mazda 323, LX, GT 1986-1989 (4x114.3mm / HPO / 12x1.5 Lug-nut / 59.60mm Bore)
which i'm presuming is the same for the earlier car, is this the pcd of all the uber cool j-tin and lotus wheels?
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Last Edit: Jan 3, 2007 21:16:47 GMT by RetroMat
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New Car!BenzBoy
@benzboy
Club Retro Rides Member 7
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I'd put money on it being 4x114.3 PCD. I reckon some JDM mirrors would look cool on it  |
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Pretty certain they share PCD with the same year Ford Laser. That being they're essentially the same car. Ford and Mazda being in bed as they are.
Also, a DOHC Turbo from a later 323 should go in there, with some fettling.
Edit: Also, Aoshima do 1/24 Plastic Kitsets of this shape/year Familia/323.
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Last Edit: Jan 3, 2007 21:50:32 GMT by kyteler
Skyline: 1963 - 1973 - 1983
Sunny: 1982
450SLC: 1973
Navara: 1992
Gloria: 1992
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New Car!BenzBoy
@benzboy
Club Retro Rides Member 7
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According to this site, I got... MAZDA 323 -85 4-114.3 ET45 Centre Bore: 59.6 Bolt size: M12x1.50 |
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madmart
Part of things
love is: valvebounce in top gear
Posts: 559
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looks tidy, didnt they do a turbo version of the 323?
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st182
Part of things
'yota man
Posts: 585
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Thats nice Matt!
Are you ridding yourself of the Micra then?
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Dan  '93 JZA80 '79 TA40 '99 SCP10 |
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Mazda PCD’s are barmy! Why did they do so many? Given their links with Ford you’d have imagined they’d have eventually gone to same as them.
If it does turn out to be 4x114.3 then I know of a set of alloys that would look good on that. The Compomotive TFs that I had on my Starlet are apparently spare, I was in contact with its new owner recently and he’s now running Revolutions on it. I reckon angular style of TF would suit 323 very well. Offset on them was 17mm, and I think they were 5x13”.
There was a Turbo 4x4 version of the following model, and I think in Japan there was a turbo one of this model too. Wouldn’t surprise me if Janspeed had done a kit for them in conjunction with TWR.
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Glad to see this has found a good home (sorry Nige for not getting back to you about it!). We've had three Mazda 323's in total...one this shape and two facelifts and all were superb, trouble free cars. Bernie runs a 1.5 Executive saloon at the moment and despite being 20 years ald it's still in amazing condition, runs great and everything still works. These cars really last well even if neglected.
I was under the impression that 323's had an odd stud pattern like 110 or something. I'll check Bernies one this evening when she gets back from work.
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1962 Datsun Bluebird Estate - 1971 Datsun 510 SSS - 1976 Datsun 710 SSS - 1981 Dodge van - 1985 Nissan Cherry Europe GTi - 1988 Nissan Prairie - 1990 Hyundai Pony Pickup - 1992 Mazda MX5
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Thought that was my old 323 for a sec, but not enough doors. Same colour, same "tan" interior. Excellent car, best gearchange ever, really quick for a 1.3 (Think most 323s are twin choke carb thats probably why). I should never have sold it, really. Mine also had a fuelling problem, it used to cut out, mainly up hills, and start groggily. I eventually found the problem to be that an in-line fuel filter had been fitted, restricting the amount of fuel getting through, and when I fitted the correct cannister type upright fuel filter (cost £1) the problem was cured instantly and the car was transformed. Here it is anyway:  |
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Thinking about it - idling for so long, cutting out, takes a bit to get it started...to me this could be pointing to the distributor - try a new cap and rotor arm.
But that fuel filter is worth looking at, 323s like new fuel filters and they're only £1 (or they were in 2005 when I got one)
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RetroMat
Posted a lot
Column Shifting!
Posts: 3,442
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Today was a very bad day  This morning I went to collect thermostat and other service bits from the local motor factors, first problem, dissy cap and rotor arm didnt fit (they were for points ignition not electronic) So I had to go back to the shop to exchange them, the right ones for this car were of course double the price and wernt in stock. An air filter I brought of ebay tunned up too, the seller posted me the wrong part I dunno what it is but its not off a mazda and defiantly not an air filter. Still feeling optimistic I decided the swap over the thermostat, I drained the coolant and went to unbolt the thermostat housing, cant you guess what happen next...............................................................................................................................................the bolt sheared off I've only got tommorw to try and fix it before I got back to uni on sunday, so it looks like the mazda will be staying at home. Any one wana buy it   |
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Last Edit: Jan 5, 2007 18:02:09 GMT by RetroMat
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New Car!briandamaged
@GUEST
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Bummer! Wish I lived closer. Anyone in Essex help him out?  |
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Sorry if I appear uninformed but why are you swapping over the thermostat? Is it still in place with the bolt sheared off? What is it`s current staus as far as being able to be driven?
Daft as it sounds but Mazda themselves can be an option for parts for these, I got a new fuel pump for mine (the one in the pic a couple of posts up - identical to yours but 5 - dr) from the Mazda main dealer in Wakefield for less than £50, it had to be brought over from Japan but it still arrived in less than a week. You cant beat brand new genuine stuff like that and you know its going to be right, Mazda dealers are pretty switched on, by and large.
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RetroMat
Posted a lot
Column Shifting!
Posts: 3,442
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yea the thermostat its still in its housing which is held in with one bolt. I was swapping over the thermostat as the temperature needle is very low when warmed up and takes a look time to get there
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I don't know if this has any bearing on the situation but my current 323 (1991) is like that and has been for the 3 years I`ve had it. I appreciate its a newer car and its the 1324cc 16V engine as opposed to the 1296 which yours has, but the cooling system could be similar and 323s inherited a lot of traits through the generations. Mine is most noticeable at this time of year, runs at a low temperature and heater takes a while to warm the inside up. I had it checked out ages ago and the conclusion was that it was just not a hot running car, certainly no problems with it. Does the heater get warm inside? if you leave it idling with the heater off does it eventually get up to temperature and the fan kick in?
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[*]
This morning I went to collect thermostat and other service bits from the local motor factors, first problem, dissy cap and rotor arm didnt fit (they were for points ignition not electronic) So I had to go back to the shop to exchange them, the right ones for this car were of course double the price and wernt in stock. 
