Ryannn
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,421
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Sept 4, 2012 18:12:13 GMT
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Quick question.
I had a wheel come loose the other day. Took it off and cleaned the metal shards away then fastened everything back together. That was last Thursday, today the same wheel has come loose and was held on by 3 lose bolts when I stopped at the side of the road. The bolt faces aren't damaged as such, the powdercoat is worn off and you can tell its been loose, but the wheel sits flat and there's no gaps round the bolts.
Is the wheel the issue here or not?
Thanks!
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,712
Club RR Member Number: 34
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Losing wheelsDez
@dez
Club Retro Rides Member 34
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Sept 4, 2012 18:27:45 GMT
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what wheel, what car, what studs, OE fitment or not?
the problem is very likely to be the powercoat- there should be any of it on the bolt seats to start with. when it get hot it goes soft and basically loosens the bolts.
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Ryannn
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,421
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Sept 4, 2012 18:33:58 GMT
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what wheel, what car, what studs, OE fitment or not? the problem is very likely to be the powercoat- there should be any of it on the bolt seats to start with. when it get hot it goes soft and basically loosens the bolts. It's a mk3 golf and they're Renault turbines. I ran them for a few years on a Volvo with no issues, had them on this for two weeks and I'm only having a problem with 1 wheel. I'm running the studs with the bolts that came off the original alloys, same seat taper
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MK2VR6
Posted a lot
Mk2 Golf GTi 90 Spec
Posts: 3,328
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Sept 4, 2012 18:39:42 GMT
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Only joking. Tighten slightly more than normal?
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Last Edit: Sept 4, 2012 18:40:35 GMT by MK2VR6
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g40jon
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,569
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Sept 4, 2012 19:13:44 GMT
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2nd vote for powdercoat on the bolt seats
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Last Edit: Sept 4, 2012 19:14:14 GMT by g40jon
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Sept 4, 2012 19:19:20 GMT
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I remember some renault wheels having a fairly wide taper, are you sure the bolts are seating on the wheel and not pulling too far through the wheel and bottoming out on the hub before it clamps the wheel tight?
Also, are the center bores correct?? If not, and you aren't careful when bolting the wheel on in the first place (tighten the bolts in stages, diagonally like you should anyway) you can end up with the wheel not quite sat centrally, and I suppose it could perhaps come loose because of this.
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Last Edit: Sept 4, 2012 19:21:36 GMT by cobblers
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Ryannn
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,421
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Sept 4, 2012 19:47:23 GMT
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I'll sit the studs through the wheel tomorrow and check they can't touch the hub, don't think they are. I'm taking the wheel for balancing tomorrow to see if it's out. In the meantime I'll keep an eye on the spare for movement
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Sept 4, 2012 20:17:48 GMT
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I'll sit the studs through the wheel tomorrow and check they can't touch the hub, don't think they are. I'm taking the wheel for balancing tomorrow to see if it's out. In the meantime I'll keep an eye on the spare for movement Was going to suggest swapping wheel round to see if problem moves. Do all the threads look clean and undamaged?
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Ryannn
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,421
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Sept 4, 2012 20:26:31 GMT
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Was going to suggest swapping wheel round to see if problem moves. Do all the threads look clean and undamaged? Threads on the bolts look fine, but I havnt looked in the hub yet! don't want to risk another alloy so on with the spare!
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Sept 4, 2012 20:41:21 GMT
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you sure those wheels don't need wobble botls sounds like it
Dave
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Sept 4, 2012 21:10:21 GMT
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If your over torquing the bolts they can lose their elasticity and will work loose regularly after that, its not common but it IS possible, especially if it came lose and you did them extra tight "just in case"
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Volvo back as my main squeeze, more boost and some interior goodies on the way.
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RobinJI
Posted a lot
"Driven by the irony that only being shackled to the road could ever I be free"
Posts: 2,995
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Sept 4, 2012 21:12:34 GMT
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Both Renault and VW use 4x100 on their 4 bolt stuff, so there shouldn't be any need for wobble bolts.
As the others have said, check the bolts are actually tightening on the wheel not bottoming out first. Is it a front or rear wheel? If it's rear is it drums or discs on there?
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Sept 4, 2012 22:11:07 GMT
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Smear taper on wheel with ink (felt pen ?) and then tighten bolt. You will then see if it's locating properly.
Paul h
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Sept 4, 2012 22:41:05 GMT
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mating face to hub free of powdercoat?
btw, how are you using studs and bolts?
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Ryannn
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,421
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Sept 5, 2012 10:11:43 GMT
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Took the wheel off today and without it fitted there's room for the bolts to vibrate. That's not right surely? Hub's goosed?
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Sept 5, 2012 13:53:46 GMT
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A little is ok, how loose are they compared to other hubs on the car?
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"No............I think I'll stick with the Maxi"
Arther Daley
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Ryannn
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,421
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Sept 5, 2012 14:06:56 GMT
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Marginally looser. When the wheel's on they don't move but I couldn't say whether they're moving slightly as I drive, causing them to undo. Took all the remaining powdercoat off the back of the wheel today and rechecked the torque when I'd had a drive so the wheel was hot. I've found a hub online for £30 but i don't want to use another wheel incase it kills that one
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richp
Part of things
Posts: 246
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Sept 5, 2012 14:10:44 GMT
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Are you using spigots on the wheels at all?
VW's have a smaller centre bore than Renaults so the wheels may not be centralising on the hub properly.
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Sept 5, 2012 14:31:25 GMT
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I had 16v 5 spokes on my jetta for well over 50,000 miles with no centralisation with no issues..... so personally I'd rule that out.....for now....I'd loctite em and carry a suitable wrench
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"No............I think I'll stick with the Maxi"
Arther Daley
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Ryannn
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,421
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Took my spigots out, the gap between the wheel centre and the hub is so small that I couldn't get any to fit. Other people run these wheels on the same cars which makes me think it isn't the wheels and is more likely the hub and/or bolts
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