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I bought this on eBay sight-unseen, as more or less an impulse buy. I had always been interested in motorbikes, but didn't really want to ride them on the road, because I don't particularly fancy getting knocked over by a car. Now that I own a ute, I thought that the time was ripe to buy a bike. I've always liked two-strokes, and this one happened to turn up cheap and looked to be in reasonable condition. So, off to pick it up! The bike was in reasonable condition, but a 30 year old dirt bike can't be expected to be perfect. It was originally a road-registered bike, as evidenced by the compliance plate, however it has lost all of it's lights and gauges over the years, so it will never again see the road. The bike came with a pair of brand-new rims. After a quick look at the wheels, it was obvious why! The rear rim was completely rusted out around the valve stem hole. The spokes close to the hole had gone completely slack due to the loss of strength in the rim, so it was obvious that this had to be fixed. The front one has a little bit of rust starting to flake the chrome off from around the same location, but at least it seems to be structurally sound. The other two most immediate problems with the bike were that the rear wheel bearings were completely shot and the kick-starter was loose. I fixed the loose kick-start by replacing the bolt, as it had one of the wrong thread altogether. Next step was to remove the rear wheel, which unfortunately I didn't take any photos of! After that, I bought new wheel bearings and fitted one of them. The wheel bearing on the other side was a clearance fit, so presumably the hub must have been pounded out by the old bearing. I was considering re-lacing the wheel onto the new rim myself, so I went to a motorbike shop to enquire about buying a set of tyre levers and a spoke wrench. After talking to the guy in the shop about how hard the job would be, and having spoken to friends of mine who have tried it with limited success, I reluctantly dropped off the wheel to be fitted with the new rim. While they were at it, they supplied and fitted a new rim tape and tube, polished up all the spokes for me and shimmed out the loose bearing so that it could be fitted. All done, I picked up the wheel, put it back on and here she is! All in all, I'm pretty happy with the bike now. It's a proper old-school dirt bike for not much more money than a tiny Chinese pit bike. The engine starts and runs beautifully and makes a fantastic two-stroke noise and smell. The gears, brakes and clutch all work, but I won't really know how well until I get it out on the first ride. I've never ridden a motorbike before, so I'm planning to take this one out to a nice empty paddock and teach myself how to ride. Wish me luck!
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mylittletony
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,342
Club RR Member Number: 84
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Mar 14, 2012 12:28:53 GMT
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looks pretty tidy! A word of caution with a reasonable sized 2 stroke if you've never ridden before - take it nice and easy!! It'll have a power band and depending on the tune, the majority of the power will arrive all at once, or at least very quickly... my first foray on a stroker was a kmx125 on a dry field, it got very sideways in 2nd and 3rd gear between 8000 and 9000 rpm and again between 10000 & 11000!! Other than that, have fun!
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Mar 14, 2012 20:25:10 GMT
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Love it.
We had an earlier 125 and it was a great bike at age 14/15
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Mar 14, 2012 20:47:42 GMT
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Nice buy!
"Go Hard, or go home" I think was the correct turn of phrase
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dungbug
Posted a lot
'Ooligan!
Posts: 2,852
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Nice little Suzi, doesn't look bad at all to be honest! Take it easy when you start & most importantly enjoy it, I've been riding pretty much everyday since last summer & love it (even though my GN is running like a fecking pig!) ;D
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Past: 13 VW Beetles from 1967 - 1974 Bay Window Campers (1973 & 1974) Mini's (1992 Cooper lookalike & 1984 '25 Anniversary) MK2 Polo Coupe S (1984 & 1986) MK2 Polo Breadvan (1981 & 1984) MK4 Escort (1989) MK2 Granada Based Hearse (seriously) Fiat Uno 60S (1986) Punto 60S (1998) Cinq (1997) 1998 Yamaha YZF600R Thundercat 2003 Ford KA
Current: 2004 Ford Focus (barely alive)
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I adjusted the chain tension and then took this bike out on it's first proper test ride today. It went okay to start with. I did find that all of the power suddenly arrives in a big rush at high rpm, as you would expect from an old 2-stroke. At low revs it bogs down, so you need to keep a certain amount of revs up, especially for climbing hills. It shifts through the gears nicely, although I only got up to third gear in the limited space where I was riding.
After about 25 minutes or so, I went to shift gears and noticed that the shift lever had a lot more travel in it than before! The lever was previously tack-welded on with a few blobs of weld, which have now cracked free, leaving the shifter loose. I decided that this was a prudent time to end the test ride, so I managed to get it back into first gear and head home. On the way back, I felt the rear wheel wobbling from side to side and wondered whether it was a clump of mud stuck to the tyre. When I got a decent look at it, I noticed that one of the rear wheel bearings seems to have parted company with the hub! Blast!
I parked the bike back in the shed and left it to cool down. I'll have a look later on this week to see what needs to be done to fix it. I'm sure the shift lever will be easy, but the rear wheel bearing issue may pose a serious problem. The good news is that the engine, gearbox and brakes all work fine. However, the rear swingarm bearings are toast, and it looks like the rear wheel hub is spitting out the left-hand bearing. I might even end up looking for another wheel and/or bike, depending on how hard it will all be. On Saturday night at the pub, a mate mentioned that he knew of someone selling another TS185 for cheap. Oh well, the ride was fun while it lasted!
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Gear change lever is an easy fix, don't be tempted to MIG it back, you will live to regret it. First check the shaft to see if the splines are shot, if they aren't you can get a pattern gear lever for about £9 here so I would guess Aus$20, if the splines are gone on the shaft put the lever into the correct position and drill into the end half on the shaft half on the lever so you tap in a pin to lock it into position, that way it can be removed without resorting to the grinder, don't drill sideways through the shaft you'll weaken it to the extent that it will snap. Exhaust probably needs repacking to increase bottom end torque - they don't need to be rev'd like a MX bike to make progress when they are right. Will have a think about the wheel can you post some photos? Giles EDIT Right this has been bugging me since my last reply, the wheel bearing shouldn't be able to come out of the housing in the wheel no matter how plums'd it is as there should be spacers each side of it to keep it correctly centred in the swinging arm. theres an image here: www.cmsnl.com/suzuki-ts185-1973-1976-usa_model16295/partslist/86038.html#resultsAre all these present and correct, if they aren't it will allow the bearing to be pushed out.. If it is slack in the housing a quick and dirty fix is to centre punch up the housing then apply lots of stud and bearing fix (the mega strong stuff) when tapping the bearing back - bearings should really be changed by heating the housing up to minimise the chances of the metal being drawn out of the housing leading to a sloppy fit... Swinging arm bushes are only pennies for new ones or you could have some turned up from bronze.
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Thanks for your help and interest, dodgerover.
I wasn't planning to weld the shifter back on. I still have to grind the weld blobs off the end of the shaft to get a good look, but at least one set of splines must be dodgy, as it's very loose. The actual shifter shaft itself can move in and out of the gearbox by about 5mm but it doesn't seem to affect the shifting.
The exhaust leaks in about five places, so that might have something to do with the lack of bottom-end torque. I was planning to sort that out eventually, but the test ride has revealed other issues!
Regarding bearing spacers, this is what I think caused the issue. On the diagram you linked to, there are more spacers than what my bike has. I don't think I have any spacers inside the hub between the left and right bearings. I was slightly concerned about this at the time, but since I don't know much about bikes, and it didn't come with any spacers, I assumed that it must be alright. Those inner spacers would have had to be fitted when the bearing was fitted though, which the guys at the bike shop did for me. They didn't ask for any spacers when I gave them the wheel. The diagram also shows a spacer inside the brake drum, between the bearing and the backing plate. I don't think I have one of those either. The only spacers I do have are the outer two, numbered 17 and 26 on the diagram. I had these both installed in the proper positions. Whoever worked on the bike before me was obviously a bit of a monkey, as evidenced by putting the wrong threaded bolt in the kickstarter, welding on the shifter, etc. I wouldn't be surprised if they threw out half the axle spacers.
I've just been wrestling with the back axle, trying to get the back wheel off. It's very tight in the right hand bearing, and I can't get the axle out at the moment. Will have another go later, possibly with a mechanic mate of mine. I was trying to drive the axle out with a punch and hammer, but it wasn't budging. I think it probably just needs a bigger hammer!
So, after all this, I will probably need another new set of rear wheel bearings, plus a couple of extra spacers. Should I try to find original ones or is it better just to get some made up? I'm tempted to look for a piece of pipe the right diameter and cut them myself, but I suppose I could go asking around engineering shops to turn some up for me. Such a shame that I don't know anyone with a metal lathe!
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The rear wheel bearings are possibly ok, but chances are if they have a had a lot of side load they're shot - they're only cheap (here) anyway so you may as well replace them, yes you can make spacers, I tend to keep random lumps of alloy renthal handlebars just for this purpose! However some of them may run in seals and you also need to know the correct lengths to make them up to. Its always worth pricing new genuine parts, they can be surprisingly cheap, as an example years ago it was way cheaper to buy genuine Yamaha pads for certain bikes than aftermarket ones!
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Aug 19, 2012 11:29:40 GMT
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So, the Suzuki TS185 was broken, and from my brief test ride, I had realised that it was probably going to require a lot of work to get it fully sorted. Even after that, it probably wasn't going to give me the performance that I needed to really satisfy my need for speed. Then, there was the fact that it is about an hour's drive to get to a track where I can legally ride it, and then I have to pay $40 per day for the priviledge. All of this was leading me towards the idea of road bike. They're convenient, because the ride starts in your driveway, rather than at a dirt track after an hour on the highway in the ute. After I got my tax return back, I had a little bit of money to play with. As always, I was constantly scanning eBay and Gumtree looking for any cars and motorbikes going cheap, when I came across a couple of particularly good bargains. One of them was a 2004 Suzuki GS500 for $2000 on Gumtree, which just seemed too good to be true. The normal market rate for these is at least double that. I contacted the seller, but he said that it had 'a knock in the motor' and that someone else was already coming to look at it. That only left a 1985 Honda CBX 250, which was a tempting $1200 on eBay. It looked to be in good condition, had registration and decent tyres, and it was about half the going rate for most entry-level motorbikes. Of course, I had to have a bid! I won the auction with no other bidders, so I drove up to Angaston and picked the bike up! The bike had a flat battery, but with a jump-start from the seller's car it started immediately and ran perfectly. I handed over the money and took the bike home to begin my motorcycling journey! After having won the auction, I had already booked my basic motorcycle license course, for the following week. So, once I got the bike home I had a good look at it. The frame and bodywork are nice and straight, with just a few damaged pieces of fairing. The tacho didn't work and initially the brake lights didn't either, but I managed to fix them by cleaning the switch contacts and adjusting the switches. For those who are wondering, the CBX 250 is a road bike with the 250cc four-valve single-cylinder engine from the XR 250 dirt bike. Mine has a single carb and two-into-one exhaust, but they were available with twin carbs as well! I suppose they wanted to make the most of the four valves, regardless of the fact that it's only one cylinder. I passed my licence test after the required two days of training, so I am now free to ride on my L plates! On Saturday morning, I took the bike for my first few tentative laps around the block. The first issue that I found was that the rear brake lever was in an uncomfortably high position, so I've adjusted it down quite a long way. I'm fairly tall for a 250cc bike, but I seem to fit on it pretty well other than the foot controls. I can't seem to get comfortable with my feet above the controls, as I naturally want to straighten my ankle and put my feet underneath the levers. I'm not really sure whether this is a bike setup issue, or just something that I need to learn to live with. The bikes that we used at the training course had a more upright position, so I was easily able to keep my ankles and knees at near right-angles. On this, my legs are tucked back, which makes my toes want to point at the ground. However, the levers are set up as if you're going to somehow have your legs straight up and down. I've already taken the bike for a couple of good rides and used up roughly a full tank of fuel. I was pleasantly surprised to discover that it only cost $10 to fill up! The bike rides great and I couldn't be happier with it for the money I paid. It's got more than enough power for me as a learner, and it runs smoothly and reliably. The only things I need to do now are to replace the battery and fix the tacho. Not that I particularly need the tacho, as I'd rather be looking at the road! I think that I may also need to replace the fork seals in the near future too, as the bike came with a new set. The forks do look a little oily, but they work fine for now. Despite being 27 years old, it came with less than 45,000km on the clock. I believe it too, as it rides like a new bike. Everything works smoothly and sounds right. After riding it all weekend, I clicked over the 45,000km mark myself at some point. It comes with comprehensive instrumentation, which I understand is somewhat of a luxury on a 250cc motorcycle. Certainly a lot more gauges than my Beetle has! The fuel gauge is electronic, which surprised me. As well as tacho and speedo, it has a trip meter and warning lights for neutral, left and right indicator and high beam. I haven't had much time to look at them whilst riding, but having a fuel gauge is certainly nice. As I was heading out to Meadows today, I noticed the fuel gauge getting very low, which made me stop and fill up at Meadows. If I had run out of fuel on the way back it would have been a major drama!
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Aug 19, 2012 13:49:49 GMT
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That's a version I haven't seen before. It's rather tidy too. Nice purchase mate. :-) (At least it hasn't got the inboard ventilated disc brakes!)
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Oct 27, 2012 10:16:31 GMT
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Time for a minor update on the Honda. I've been riding it everywhere and enjoying it. I've been trying to keep up with lubing the chain but I've been so busy that it went about 1000km without oiling. I don't think the chain tension is too slack, but the wear on the rear sprocket is alarming!
Once I've finished exams in about a month, I'm planning to replace the rear brake shoes, chain and sprockets. I'll probably do a service/oil change at the same time. I'm considering taking it to a workshop to get all this done, depending on how much it will cost and how rich I'm feeling at the time. I'm dreading having to do the tappets, as it looks like you need to take the fuel tank and most of the bodywork off to get to them, and then work through four little access plugs on top of the head. All doable though I'm sure. Has anyone done the tappets on one of these?
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Oct 27, 2012 18:10:55 GMT
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Done them on the XL XR CB 250's its simple enough, just a bit of a fiddle, tank should be simple enough to get off, its usually just unbolt the seat, then undo the bolt at the back of the tank and it will pull backwards and lift up, Disconnect the fuel pipe and turn the tap off first though.
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mylittletony
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,342
Club RR Member Number: 84
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Oct 29, 2012 12:48:32 GMT
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No experience of the model, but as dodgerover says - taking the tank off is a piece of p*ss, you'll be nicely surprised how quick it is. Should give you plenty of access
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dungbug
Posted a lot
'Ooligan!
Posts: 2,852
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Oct 29, 2012 13:04:44 GMT
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I'll be taking my T'Cat to a local workshop for the tappets (when needed), the chain & sprocket shouldn't be a problem though as you know your way around with a spanner good to hear the beasty is giving you plenty of riding.
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Past: 13 VW Beetles from 1967 - 1974 Bay Window Campers (1973 & 1974) Mini's (1992 Cooper lookalike & 1984 '25 Anniversary) MK2 Polo Coupe S (1984 & 1986) MK2 Polo Breadvan (1981 & 1984) MK4 Escort (1989) MK2 Granada Based Hearse (seriously) Fiat Uno 60S (1986) Punto 60S (1998) Cinq (1997) 1998 Yamaha YZF600R Thundercat 2003 Ford KA
Current: 2004 Ford Focus (barely alive)
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Oct 29, 2012 22:45:29 GMT
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I'm not scared of taking the tank off, I've had fuel tanks in and out of Beetles to replace the tiny little rubber fuel hose underneath, so I'm sure a bike will be easy. It even has a tap so you don't have to frantically jam a screwdriver into the end of the hose! I was more concerned with how much labour time they're going to want to charge me at the motorbike shop. I would have thought that on a simple air-cooled single they could have designed it with enough access to do the tappets without removing bodywork, but apparently not.
Well, I think I should probably man up and do it myself. It'll have to wait though, as from tomorrow I have two weeks left of my Bachelor of Mechanical and Automotive Engineering!
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mylittletony
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,342
Club RR Member Number: 84
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Oct 30, 2012 20:19:07 GMT
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Sounds like you got the skills, get stuck in! Good luck for your exams, I went through that a while back so feel your pain!
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Update time!
Today I took the Honda to DC Motorcycles and got the rear tyre, tube, chain and sprockets replaced. Cost me a small fortune, but the bike really needed it.
On Wednesday, I'm going to do my license test to finally get my full motorbike license. Then, on Thursday, I'm going on a big trip! Riding the Great Ocean Road to Apollo Bay with three other bikes and a few cars. Should be great fun.
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dungbug
Posted a lot
'Ooligan!
Posts: 2,852
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Jan 14, 2013 15:18:05 GMT
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On Wednesday, I'm going to do my license test to finally get my full motorbike license. Then, on Thursday, I'm going on a big trip! Riding the Great Ocean Road to Apollo Bay with three other bikes and a few cars. Should be great fun. Good luck with the test, sounds like a fun ride planned.
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Past: 13 VW Beetles from 1967 - 1974 Bay Window Campers (1973 & 1974) Mini's (1992 Cooper lookalike & 1984 '25 Anniversary) MK2 Polo Coupe S (1984 & 1986) MK2 Polo Breadvan (1981 & 1984) MK4 Escort (1989) MK2 Granada Based Hearse (seriously) Fiat Uno 60S (1986) Punto 60S (1998) Cinq (1997) 1998 Yamaha YZF600R Thundercat 2003 Ford KA
Current: 2004 Ford Focus (barely alive)
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Jan 14, 2013 23:16:59 GMT
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Thats a lovely ride, done that one myself on my CB750 (in the rain!), don't get too distracted by the sights though! Have a good time
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