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Nov 10, 2011 20:45:37 GMT
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I've got a bit of a puzzler. A couple of times my Golf has cut out while driving, and the rev counter needle flicks all over the place. The rest of the electrics (lights, stereo) all continue to work, but the engine just dies. The first time it happened (about a month or two ago) I put it down to water getting into the electrics as we had had a big downpour, but today it was completely dry. Both times I've been driving along at a reasonable speed - 30ish the first time and 50 today. My suspicions are that the coil may be breaking down and shorting internally. I'm thinking that the rev counter needle flicking as it does may be caused by the HT spark shorting through the rev counter wiring. Does this theory sound about right? I'm changing the coil, and I've got a set of HT leads on order, but I'm wondering if anything else might be giving these symptoms? I'm keen to sort it as I know it'll leave me stranded somewhere! I've read about various relays giving problems too, but I don't know if they would cause similar problems... Any ideas?
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Nov 10, 2011 21:29:08 GMT
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Our now departed Mk3 GTI had some gremlins, though not quite the same as yours.
It used to like not starting after standing for 5 mins (ie at the petrol station) and then restart quite innocently after 5 more. Never stopped or acted up while driving though. This was a dry joint inside Relay "30". Can't now remember if this was the engine management relay or the fuel pump relay. New one cured it, though had I looked inside before buying the new one - I'd have just soldered the old one properly and saved myself a tenner!
The coil packs do die, but usually in an unequivocal, non sparking, show-stopping manner. Dodgy connections on the coil might be the culprit though.
In view of your remarks about the rev counter, I think the engine position sensors might also be suspect. There are two. One is in the distributor and senses cam position. The other snses crank position and is on the bottom right hand corner of the engine (standing at bumper looking at engine) pointing back at the flywheel. It's a sod to change due to access or lack of.
Cheers
Nick
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1967 Triumph Vitesse convertible (old friend) 1996 Audi A6 2.5 TDI Avant (still durability testing) 1972 GT6 Mk3 (Restored after loong rest & getting the hang of being a car again)
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,189
Club RR Member Number: 170
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Nov 10, 2011 21:34:11 GMT
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When I had a similar problem on the 205 with a very wayward needle and poor running before dying. It was down to dirty and loose connections at the coil. Some tightening with the pliers, cleaning with switch cleaner and lubing with Vaseline gave me one less electrical gremlin to worry about for the future.
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billy
Part of things
Posts: 279
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Nov 10, 2011 22:33:02 GMT
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the ignition switch is a problem on mid 90s vw's generaly about £12 from gsf etc
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Ads 19
Posted a lot
My old r19
Posts: 1,351
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Nov 10, 2011 23:10:06 GMT
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billy probably right here, its a common issue, my sisters ibiza has just developed it actually. and had it on numerous mk3s. but unfortunately can be lots of other things as well. one of few things i let the loacl garage do. saves buying loads of sensors, when they have loads on shelf and can try out in a trial and error way. that and majical plug in devices
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bortaf
Posted a lot
Posts: 4,549
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Nov 10, 2011 23:59:30 GMT
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the ignition switch is a problem on mid 90s vw's generaly about £12 from gsf etc Had loads in with all sorts of faults that were down to the ign switch, usually starting at odd times or only starting with a push, shame they are such a PITA to actually change
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R.I.P photobucket
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Nov 11, 2011 14:42:46 GMT
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Thanks for the replies and advice. Seems like it could be a number of things then! It's only done it twice over many many miles so I think this will be quite difficult to solve! I've got a VAG-COM diagnostic thingummybob which I'm going to plug in tomorrow, although I'm not expecting it to shed any light on the matter. Who knows? It might do! ;D
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Nov 11, 2011 17:26:27 GMT
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Ignition switch is a good call. Did change this on ours due to increasing frequent reluctance to bring the starter motor into action (not that bad a job in fact although a dremel or similar comes in handy) but it was probably not guilty of the not firing up once turning over as that problem didn't go away until the relay (mentioned above) was swapped out.
VAG-COM might help if it's one of the engine position sensors - otherwise I doubt it'll shed much light.
Nick
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1967 Triumph Vitesse convertible (old friend) 1996 Audi A6 2.5 TDI Avant (still durability testing) 1972 GT6 Mk3 (Restored after loong rest & getting the hang of being a car again)
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Nov 11, 2011 22:17:32 GMT
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RPM signal comes from the crank sensor and without it the engine wont run. Does the rev counter go nuts before the engine cuts out, because it could be a rub through in the wiring from the sensor to the ecu. If VAG-COM comes up with any fault codes post them up here, might be of some help.
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R.S. Autotech. Servicing/Repairs/Diagnostics.
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Nov 11, 2011 22:35:42 GMT
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It seems like the rev counter starts going nuts just as the engine begins to die. It's hard to tell because both times I wasn't really expecting it - stereo on, cruising along and then... no power. Crank sensor looks like you have to take the engine mount off to get at it... that looks a right pallarva! I'll hook VAGCOM up and see what the computer says.
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Nov 11, 2011 22:59:24 GMT
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let me know if you need any bits dean ive got an ignition switch if you want to try it russ
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97 volvo 940 turbo wagon 87 fiat strada abarth 78 gs1000 82 katana 1100 84 gsx1100 efe
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Nov 11, 2011 23:02:14 GMT
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let me know if you need any bits dean ive got an ignition switch if you want to try it russ I forgot you had that Mk3 Russ! Would be great if I could try the ignition switch and maybe Relay 30 too, which seems to cause similar problems.
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Nov 12, 2011 16:50:49 GMT
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Plugged in the laptop this evening. Computer says... 00513 - Engine Speed Sensor (G28) 16-10 - Signal Outside Specifications - Intermittent Readiness: N/A Crank sensor then! It had a stutter on the motorway earlier - just a brief "cut-out" and then it carried on as normal. Need to order the part and find the time to do it now!
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Nov 12, 2011 17:35:00 GMT
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Ahhhhh, your intermittant readiness is not applicable. I thought as much ;D
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R.S. Autotech. Servicing/Repairs/Diagnostics.
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murran
Part of things
Posts: 610
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Nov 12, 2011 18:14:32 GMT
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after reading the first few posts id have said crank sensor..... got to the bottom and it is the crank sensor.
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Ed@AC
Part of things
Posts: 350
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Same here, read the first line of the post and would have immediately said crank sensor. Mine did exactly the same thing a couple of years ago. Its actually a common fault with them from my experience.
I wouldn't leave it too long, mine did it a couple of times intermittently over the course of a few weeks, and then chucked a massive wobbler and I couldn't drive the car for more than a mile without it cutting out.
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Automotive Connection - Whoever you are, whatever you drive.
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povey
Part of things
Posts: 700
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Nov 13, 2011 11:01:33 GMT
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I had a simlar problem with my Subaru impreza which turned out to be the air flow meter
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Nov 13, 2011 16:29:30 GMT
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I wouldn't leave it too long, mine did it a couple of times intermittently over the course of a few weeks, and then chucked a massive wobbler and I couldn't drive the car for more than a mile without it cutting out. I know what you mean - I do a lot of miles each day and I'd really rather it not cut out on the motorway in rush hour. Sod's law that's what will happen though. I had a squint under the bonnet and the sensor wires look well past their best - insulation cracked etc. I don't have the time to fix it so I think I'll be taking it to the garage and letting them do it. Thanks for the help and advice!
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Nov 13, 2011 16:36:58 GMT
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CPS is pretty easy to change and doesn't take too long.
IIRC, it's moving a few wires out of the way and one 10mm bolt.
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Nov 13, 2011 16:53:31 GMT
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CPS is pretty easy to change and doesn't take too long. IIRC, it's moving a few wires out of the way and one 10mm bolt. Hmm, from what I've seen it looks a bit of a pain! Sensor seems to be right underneath the front engine / gearbox mount. Oil filter looks as if it might get in the way too, although taking that off doesn't really concern me. Unless you know some tricks to get at it without removing the engine mount and various coolant / PAS pipes? It's an AGG engine if that makes a difference. I just don't have the time to do it unfortunately. I don't like taking my cars to the garage if I can help it, other than for the MOT, but as my daily driver it needs to be in service fairly sharpish.
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