Hey Mr_B, thanks for getting 'round to posting this, I remember you saying you would. (Sorry I'm a bit late to the party, I've just been catching up on the tat blog...) I do a bit of this tyre-swappery on a budget (zero dollar), and it is a sure-fire way to warm yourself up on a cold evening of tinkering! I'd agree that the hardest part is often breaking the bead. This two hammers idea is a new one on me, but still seems tough. I have an old school slide-hammer type bead breaker and just can't get on with it... there have been some other interesting suggestions - last week (before I saw this) I tried the vice [sic] idea and it worked a treat! Easy as owt. You need a BIG vise on a solid bench though, and if the jaws are a aggressive, protect the sidewall and rim with wood. Hold the wheel down and crank HARD. Once about an eighth of the bead is popped, the rest will usually follow easily. No sweat!
For ultimate mingebaggery, with a bit pf practice, you can remove the valve sleeve intact from an otherwise bare rim, even without the special puller tool pictured: loads of soapy water everywhere as always, grab the sleeve firmly with moleys, (protect the thread with a valve cap,) the grips must rest on the rim, use a rag to protect the paint if it's precious, then lever down to stretch it out straight, and at the same time push the round retaining part of the sleeve base through the hole from the inside - I use a well-worn flat screwdriver with no sharp edges. You'll ruin the first few you try, but needs must when you cant find a new valve sleeve!
I never put a tyre back on without a good clean up of the inside of the rim- there's nowt worse than going to all this effort to find it just won't hold air because of rust or flaking paint on old alloys. Dead easy with a knotted cup wire brush in the drill. Re-paint if it's a long-term thing.
Usually popping the beads back on at the end is easy enough with a good volume of air rushing in from the compressor - I usually do it without a valve in for maximum flow, but it CAN be a right cnut, especially if your remoulds have been stored in a stack without rims in 'em! I've never been brave enough to try the lighter-fluid method myself. If the tyres are tight before popping and need a lot of pressure, be prepared for a BIG POP, they can even become airborne when the back one blows, so if they're blowing up without popping back to the rim, I stand in the middle of the wheel to keep it on the ground.
they wont always seat on the bead, which if you don't have a bead seater can be a difficult problem to over come, the air just gets between the well and the tyre, if there's not enough air pressure to force out the tyre against the wheel, what air you do have leaks out as fast as you put it in,
a ratchet strap around the circumference can quit often work in forcing the bead out enough to seal and allow the pressure to gain, if this fails to work, then a bike inner tube or anything similar stuffed into the gap can work, your only trying have less leaking out than your putting in,
if you use the lighter fluid method, remember you will still need to pump the tyre up, as once the gases have cooled, it will create a vacuum in the tyre!
As a former garage owner I can safely say that you won't be thanked for dumping your old tyres on other peoples piles without there knowledge. This used to happen to me all the time and its flipping annoying. Other than that good write up.
as an ex tyre fitter start by the valve and work away from it save damaging the valve if you want to save your pennies and when refitting finish by the valve, also when taking off the second bead you can use leavers to get it off rather than using a hammer which tends to put a slight kink in bead not good if your refitting it. as a rule of thumb tyre will always come off from the flat part of the rim (not chamfer side) or if its a lorry wheel the side where the valve is mounted .
I am lucky enough to have a manual bead breaker didn;t cost to much but what I use mine for mainly is painting/ spraying the wheels just break the bead on both sides of the tyre clean and light sand down stuff newspaper between wheels and tyres this way you get no paint on you tyres beats trying to cut in the edge of the wheel also if the bead won,t seal I use a ratchet strap round the middle of the tyre
I am lucky enough to have a manual bead breaker didn;t cost to much but what I use mine for mainly is painting/ spraying the wheels just break the bead on both sides of the tyre clean and light sand down stuff newspaper between wheels and tyres this way you get no paint on you tyres beats trying to cut in the edge of the wheel also if the bead won,t seal I use a ratchet strap round the middle of the tyre if any on e would like some photos and sizes of the tyre beaker/ remover just let me know
When I fitted part worn farm service lug tyres to the front of my EN Civic I put tubes in them as my compressor didn't even look like it was going to seat the beads. My boss always run tubes in his cars cos he doesn't trust tubeless tyres.
Only just found this, and it's all useful info for getting the job done if you can't get to a tyre fitter in working hours.
The only bit that really annoys me which someone has already mentioned above...don't put them on someone's tyre pile, that's not on. Running a business myself I find that sort of thing hard to swallow...it still costs the business to dispose of them, and small places like tyre fitters are not made of money. It's just the same as stealing as it's coming out of their profit at the end of the day!
It was funny, though! Thankfully my local tip does take old tyres (not from the trade, i don't think), so i think i'll have a bash at removing my old tyres myself before welding wider outer rims on my wheels.
Great thread. I think i'll leave the new tyre fitting situation for a shop to do, though. I can see me making a right chew of the bead surface.
DIY tyre changeovers are a pain but well worth it if you can't find a second set of wheels to run winter tyres on. My local place I've been using for years now want £10 a tyre for a changover, so running winters on 2 cars and changing twice a year runs to £160 just to swap over! So I made this Bead breaker using a longer pole as required
Pop out the valve and mount to the top of the machine, bolt down to plate
Use no mark tyre bar from ebay ( most expensive thing at around £60 )
Plenty of valves, lube etc on ebay for not a lot of cash so stock up and change valves as needed. One of the best tools I have made, use it loads
Post by glassfibrebucket on Feb 21, 2016 2:34:08 GMT
I built this last year for doing bike tyres on. So far it's saved a few quid, and the hassle of journeying into the nearest tyre fitter. I'd done plenty on the floor with levers, but really couldn't be rassed with that any more.
It keeps the car tyre fitting device company, though I've not used that much, but will be this year. A Harbour Fright / Ebay special, used, dirt cheap...