Sven
Part of things
Posts: 341
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Aug 27, 2011 23:22:02 GMT
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Just picked this up off ebay: cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120766187992I'll be sending the geezer a deposit and picking it up on Tuesday in West Covina, CA (NE of LA) and driving it the 350+ miles back to Phoenix. Thankfully I have AAA in case I need a tow home ... ;D I like that it is a 2 door and looks very original and not bu66ered about with. I doubt I'll bu66er about with it myself for a while, I have plenty of other projects and just need a 2nd daily. Plans include a serious wash and clean, an immediate service (fluids and tune up and stuff) and then drive it as much as I can to get a feel for it. And a RR sticker, naturally ... It has AC which is probably R12 and will need converting to R134 refrigerant. This is highly important being in Arizona and it's been 112-115F (45-46C) this week so it'll be high on my list of making work. The junkyards around here are full of them so no problems getting parts and whatever cheaply. Excited! -Steve
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Last Edit: Aug 27, 2011 23:23:41 GMT by Sven
1969 Chevrolet 4x4 C10 Pickup 1969 VW extended cab pickup (doka) 1980 Volvo 240DL 1995 Mazda Miata MX-5 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser 2007 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Diesel 2011 MK Indy R (building)
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Sven
Part of things
Posts: 341
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Got 'The Svede' home in one piece. Drove almost 300 miles without a hitch and not much adventure other than getting a little warm on a 10 mile long uphill in 103 degree heat. When we arrived home she marked her territory with a little oil drip, which is perfectly fine with me. The car hasn't been driven much the past few years so I'm sure seals and whatnot are dried out. If it drips a lot I'll steam clean off the underside and throw some talc up under there to telltale where the oil is coming from.
The next few days I'll clean it up and take inventory of what needs doing. I'll also take some pics of her multicolored (mostly green, brown, black and white) interior which will need some work. Work, as in hunting around the junk yards for door cards, etc.
1st order of business is to fix the AC. I ordered some AC gauges compatible with R12 freon. Along with pressurizing the system with R134 and a marker dye I should be able to diagnose it. I didn't even look yet to see if the compressor clutch is engaging or the fuses are bad.
If the compressor is hosed it's about $120 trade, similarly I'm betting it'll be $100-$120 for the expansion valve or dryer plus about $75 to refill the R12. I'm hoping it's just seals or the usual leakage from the Schrader valves.
-Steve
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1969 Chevrolet 4x4 C10 Pickup 1969 VW extended cab pickup (doka) 1980 Volvo 240DL 1995 Mazda Miata MX-5 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser 2007 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Diesel 2011 MK Indy R (building)
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johnrh
Part of things
Posts: 958
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Sept 8, 2011 10:48:48 GMT
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The car looks good. What are the plans? Turbo?
John
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Sven
Part of things
Posts: 341
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Sept 8, 2011 17:31:52 GMT
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The car looks good. What are the plans? Turbo? John Hey John! I grew up in Halifax and my family still live there ... love your and Steve's projects. Plans are open right now. I want to drive it for a while, do some fixing over the winter, probably get it lower, bodywork, interior, etc. The car is very sound mechanically and the engine runs very strongly but has very high miles, 202k, and the transmission is a little temperamental. Perfectly good for local driving while I do some work on it. I am tempted by a conversion to a fuel injected Ford 5.0 V8 and T5 from a Mustang. Mustangs and 302/5.0 V8s and T5s are aplenty here and parts are pretty cheap. For example, $1500 would have bought me two rebuilt Mustang 5.0 motors and two rebuilt T5s last week with about a years driving on them. A ton of other parts came too. Still early days yet so plans change ... -Steve
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1969 Chevrolet 4x4 C10 Pickup 1969 VW extended cab pickup (doka) 1980 Volvo 240DL 1995 Mazda Miata MX-5 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser 2007 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Diesel 2011 MK Indy R (building)
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Sept 8, 2011 17:35:21 GMT
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That looks good, don't think I've seen a two door before. Any more pics?
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Sven
Part of things
Posts: 341
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Sept 8, 2011 21:35:08 GMT
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That looks good, don't think I've seen a two door before. Any more pics? Thanks ... The two doors are reasonably rare, which will cause problems for replacing some of the internal panels. Might be able to restore them. This weekend I'll be tinkering with it and I'll take a pile of photos ... -Steve
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1969 Chevrolet 4x4 C10 Pickup 1969 VW extended cab pickup (doka) 1980 Volvo 240DL 1995 Mazda Miata MX-5 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser 2007 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Diesel 2011 MK Indy R (building)
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Sven
Part of things
Posts: 341
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Sept 9, 2011 19:25:13 GMT
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On the drive back from California I got 21 miles per US gallon, which equates to about 25 miles per UK gallon or 5.5 miles per litre. From www.automobile-catalog.com/make/volvo/240/240/1980.html I got: 1980 VOLVO 244 GL Basic specs and characteristics: petrol (gasoline) engine of 2127 cm3 / 129.7 cui displacement with advertised power 79 kW / 106 hp / 107 PS ( DIN ) / 5500 and 170 Nm / 125 lb-ft / 2500 of torque. Fuel consumption and mileage: official: 11.2 l/100km / 25.1 mpg (imp.) / 21 mpg (U.S.) / 8.9 km/l , Doesn't seem to bad to me for a 32 year old car. -Steve
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Last Edit: Sept 9, 2011 19:30:41 GMT by Sven
1969 Chevrolet 4x4 C10 Pickup 1969 VW extended cab pickup (doka) 1980 Volvo 240DL 1995 Mazda Miata MX-5 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser 2007 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Diesel 2011 MK Indy R (building)
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Sven
Part of things
Posts: 341
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Sept 10, 2011 19:34:59 GMT
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Did some testing on the AC system. I got a set of Chinese R12 AC gauges and connected them up.
They read about 75psi static pressure (without the compressor/engine running) on both the low and high pressure sure of the compressor, anything below about 80psi indicates the freon is low. Ideally one wants the pressure at greater than 88psi.
I checked the compressor clutch was engaging and it is, which is excellent news. I can turn on and off the compressor clutch from inside the car. The compressor is also running reasonably quiet which is a great sign that I don't need a new compressor, which costs bank!
Next step is to take the car to an AC shop and have them put some ultraviolet dye into the system to find leaks. If the refrigerant leaks the dye will also leak and we'll be able to see where exactly with a black light. Get the system evacuated, repair any leaks, pressure test the system, put in new mineral oil and refill with R12 freon and then I should have good AC.
The evacuation has to be done by a certified and licensed shop because R12 is bad for the environment and it's a $10,000 fine for evacuating into open air. Plus, I need the AC fixed, pressure tested and refilled. I don't have a freon license so I can't buy freon to refill the car anyway.
-Steve
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1969 Chevrolet 4x4 C10 Pickup 1969 VW extended cab pickup (doka) 1980 Volvo 240DL 1995 Mazda Miata MX-5 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser 2007 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Diesel 2011 MK Indy R (building)
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Sven
Part of things
Posts: 341
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Sept 11, 2011 6:27:09 GMT
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Other small problems found are the interior light doesn't work and the windshield washers didn't work. I fixed the washers by pulling them off and cleaning the jets, putting them back on and aligning them. The interior light I won't worry about until I get to working on the interior. The tach also doesn't work in that it just moves from 0 to about 100rpm and the engine seems to idle high. I'll put my timing light on it which will give me the idle RPM. No idea yet how to adjust the idle on this motor. Have to research that. Might be a vacuum leak too ... There's some weird rotary switch on the left middle of the dash that seems broken. Not sure what it's for, maybe dash lighting brightness. Anyone know, let me know? -Steve
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Last Edit: Sept 11, 2011 6:31:28 GMT by Sven
1969 Chevrolet 4x4 C10 Pickup 1969 VW extended cab pickup (doka) 1980 Volvo 240DL 1995 Mazda Miata MX-5 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser 2007 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Diesel 2011 MK Indy R (building)
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Rob
Part of things
Posts: 252
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Sept 11, 2011 6:37:58 GMT
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you can get an r12 to r134 conversion gas, we use it at work. ill try to find out what it exactly is.
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Sven
Part of things
Posts: 341
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Sept 11, 2011 17:00:05 GMT
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Freeze-12 or something similar?
-Steve
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1969 Chevrolet 4x4 C10 Pickup 1969 VW extended cab pickup (doka) 1980 Volvo 240DL 1995 Mazda Miata MX-5 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser 2007 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Diesel 2011 MK Indy R (building)
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Sven
Part of things
Posts: 341
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Sept 11, 2011 19:46:25 GMT
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Static idle when cold is about 1200rpm and when warmed up it's about 1500rpm. The engine pulls clean and strongly. I suspect a vacuum leak somewhere, maybe the fast idle valve. I'll get some carb cleaner (or find where I ratholed it last time) to see if there's any stumbling or change in the RPM when I spray it around.
I also want to check the timing because the timing marks are not clear and I couldn't see them with my timing light. It's still too hot here to really get anything done, but the next couple weeks should see it cooling off and then I can get to it and my other projects.
When my iphone has charged I'll take some photos ...
-Steve
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Last Edit: Sept 11, 2011 19:47:35 GMT by Sven
1969 Chevrolet 4x4 C10 Pickup 1969 VW extended cab pickup (doka) 1980 Volvo 240DL 1995 Mazda Miata MX-5 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser 2007 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Diesel 2011 MK Indy R (building)
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Sven
Part of things
Posts: 341
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Sept 11, 2011 22:53:11 GMT
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Last Edit: Sept 11, 2011 22:54:57 GMT by Sven
1969 Chevrolet 4x4 C10 Pickup 1969 VW extended cab pickup (doka) 1980 Volvo 240DL 1995 Mazda Miata MX-5 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser 2007 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Diesel 2011 MK Indy R (building)
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Rob
Part of things
Posts: 252
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Sept 12, 2011 10:58:26 GMT
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yup freeze 12. btw pic 26 is your idle control valve. take ity off and give it a good spray with carbie cleaner. i used to have a 244gl in the same colour, and i have a 1975 245dl 2.1 in maroon. awesome things. sussed the heater yet?
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Sven
Part of things
Posts: 341
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Sept 12, 2011 15:22:40 GMT
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yup freeze 12. btw pic 26 is your idle control valve. take ity off and give it a good spray with carbie cleaner. I used to have a 244gl in the same colour, and I have a 1975 245dl 2.1 in maroon. awesome things. sussed the heater yet? Yeh, I like them too. No reason the thing won't run for a long time with good maintenance, which it seems to have had. If the motor or transmission blows they're easy to replace. I'm thinking a late model 5.0L Ford V8 and a T5 transmission from a Mustang would fit nicely. That pic of the idle control valve was me eying it suspiciously. I removed the wires connecting to it and no change to the RPM, which I'd expect if there's also a leak. The idle valve is ECU controlled and the ECU is in the right side kick panel. The ECU takes input from the throttle, coil and coolant temp sensor and adjusts the idle based on that. My theory is if there is a leak keeping the RPMs up, the RPMs are high enough that the ECU won't try to adjust the idle up. Anyhow, I'll certainly try that. Yeh, I think the AC problem is sussed out. The compressor clutch works, but the system pressure is too low (at 75psi) indicating a leak. I'll buy some dye and my mate has all the gubbins to find and fix the leak so I'll take the car to his work this week and we'll have a tinker. -Steve
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Last Edit: Sept 12, 2011 15:25:59 GMT by Sven
1969 Chevrolet 4x4 C10 Pickup 1969 VW extended cab pickup (doka) 1980 Volvo 240DL 1995 Mazda Miata MX-5 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser 2007 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Diesel 2011 MK Indy R (building)
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Sven
Part of things
Posts: 341
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Oct 19, 2011 15:40:23 GMT
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Just failed emissions testing in pretty good fashion. They are:
Loaded Hydrocarbons, 239 (220) Loaded CO, 7.04 (1.20) Idle Hydrocarbons, 425 (220) Idle CO, 8.74 (1.20)
I have 60 days where I can get a retest for free.
The rules are I have to either fix it or spend $450 on repairs before I can apply for a waiver. I want to fix it, naturally. I bet if I fix whatever is causing the high idle that will go a long way to reducing the emissions.
If I understand it, the CO is usually indicative of overfueliing while the hydrocarbons is due to ignition.
Any ideas?
-Steve
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1969 Chevrolet 4x4 C10 Pickup 1969 VW extended cab pickup (doka) 1980 Volvo 240DL 1995 Mazda Miata MX-5 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser 2007 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Diesel 2011 MK Indy R (building)
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Oct 19, 2011 18:27:41 GMT
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High CO would generally be a rich mixture, which could also explain the high HC readings. Awesome motor though, begging to be Turbo'ed
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1968 Volvo 142S 1969 Volvo 164 1987 Volvo 240 Estate (Sold) 1971 Triumph 2500 Estate
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Sven
Part of things
Posts: 341
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Oct 19, 2011 20:14:15 GMT
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High CO would generally be a rich mixture, which could also explain the high HC readings. Awesome motor though, begging to be Turbo'ed Thanks mate! I don't know much about the Bosch mechanical injection yet to be adjusting it and I have no idea of the condition of the rest of the idle control or emissions curse word already on it. Time for more research and tinkering ... Turbo (with Megasquirt) is one of options if I can't get the emissions fixed (or later even if I can). The other is a Ford 302/5.0L V8 and T5 (with Megasquirt) from a Mustang. -Steve
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1969 Chevrolet 4x4 C10 Pickup 1969 VW extended cab pickup (doka) 1980 Volvo 240DL 1995 Mazda Miata MX-5 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser 2007 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Diesel 2011 MK Indy R (building)
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Oct 19, 2011 20:22:26 GMT
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Looks like the same Bosch K-jet setup as later euro spec 240's, as well as many other 80's retro tin. Usually mixture adjustment is with an allen key into the metering unit which should be under your intake manifold, may have a tamperproof plug in the adjustment hole. K-jet is a really simple and reliable setup. Try Turbobricks or Volvoforums.org.uk for Volvo specific guidance, some of the members also frequent this Forum too.
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1968 Volvo 142S 1969 Volvo 164 1987 Volvo 240 Estate (Sold) 1971 Triumph 2500 Estate
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antz
Part of things
Posts: 116
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Oct 22, 2011 18:13:16 GMT
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nice looking project
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