I've just done this job and while it's straightforward enough I thought it would be nice to share the knowledge and maybe learn how other people have done this.
IMPORTANT - whenever you use different paints, be sure to try them out on something unimportant first. Some spray paints react with one another, even within the same range and can undo a lot of your hard work. - IMPORTANT
To do this you will need:
suitable spray paint (I used Plastikote mirror finish paint and Wilkinson's enamel paint ranges)
sharp craft knife
masking tape
Milliput or other modelling epoxy stuff
A file
Possibly some sandpaper
I had a selection of boot badges for my Polo and they were all looking tired. These are the odd relief profile badges that are black plastic with a chrome facing, I'm not sure how they're made in the factory but I'm trying to reproduce a factory finish.
So, here's some of the materials I started with and the battered Polo badge. This particular badge had quite literally had an altercation with a lawnmower. As a result the surface of the badge is covered in scars and gouges and one corner is partially missing.
First of all, file or sand the badge back smooth to get rid of any high spots and try and get back the approximate profiles of the original.
Now mix up some Milliput (or whatever you're using as a substitute) and apply roughly to the areas you want. It's best to overfill slightly because you can sand or file this back to the desired profile.
It may take a few attempts, but eventually you'll have a badge that's as smooth and new looking as you're happy with. Some people are pickier than others about this so do it to your own standard. Once you've got it nice and new shaped looking, get out the colour of the metal you want and give it a coat. I've been using Plastikote mirror gold paint which is marvellous stuff. The whole mirror paint Plastikote range gives a nice convincing finish as long as your preparation work is done to a good standard. You shouldn't need to use primer since these are small components, but if you want to make sure to use one that won't react with the top coat since it's nigh on impossible to remove paint from plastic.
Let this dry. Ideally you want to leave this overnight so that the paint is cured somewhat and it's best to give it a few coats to get a nice smooth finish. Many light coats are always better than one heavy coat and it's worth taking your time. If you spot some damage that you want to rectify, do so as before and then repaint.
Now you've got a nice finish on your badge you can just leave them metal coloured, but these particular badges look better with the black relief I think. Here's some I prepared earlier. This is where you need the masking tape, a craft knife and a steady hand.
To do the above, run the tape over the surface of the badge but only smooth it down against the highest spots, don't force it into the recesses. Then carefully use the sharp knife to cut out the shapes you want. It can help to smooth the masking tape quite firmly over the letters so you can see where to cut.
Once you're happy with your masking you can get the black spray paint out. I used Wilkinson's satin black enamel because it normally doesn't react with the Plastikote range and it's what I had to hand. It's pretty close to the original plastic finish as well. Go somewhere well ventilated and spray the badge as you did with the metal colour.
Once the paint is dry enough to handle the badge (an advantage to satin is you can see when it's dry as opposed to wet) you can carefully begin to remove the masking tape. I found this was easiest by gently prying the point of the blade under one corner of a letter and getting a point of tape up. Then I used my fingernails - a pair of tweasers will work too - to gently peel the tape off. Providing your metal colour has cured fully you shouldn't lift any of it with the tape.
Finally, with all the tape off, you should be left with something like this.
The only job then is to wait for the black paint to dry and cure overnight before giving the badges a clean to get any sticky residue from the tape off the metal colour. If you find you want to tidy the edges, Humbrol brush on black satin enamel is quite a good match for the Wilkinson's paint and can help tidy up any edges you might've missed.
If you find some black went on the metal, you can very gently remove this with the craft knife or some extremely fine sandpaper, but be careful not to cut all the way through the paint.
You shouldn't need to lacquer the end result and the badges should withstand normal cleaning, but if you're not sure then stick some lacquer on anyway
Hope this was informative
IMPORTANT - whenever you use different paints, be sure to try them out on something unimportant first. Some spray paints react with one another, even within the same range and can undo a lot of your hard work. - IMPORTANT
To do this you will need:
suitable spray paint (I used Plastikote mirror finish paint and Wilkinson's enamel paint ranges)
sharp craft knife
masking tape
Milliput or other modelling epoxy stuff
A file
Possibly some sandpaper
I had a selection of boot badges for my Polo and they were all looking tired. These are the odd relief profile badges that are black plastic with a chrome facing, I'm not sure how they're made in the factory but I'm trying to reproduce a factory finish.
So, here's some of the materials I started with and the battered Polo badge. This particular badge had quite literally had an altercation with a lawnmower. As a result the surface of the badge is covered in scars and gouges and one corner is partially missing.
First of all, file or sand the badge back smooth to get rid of any high spots and try and get back the approximate profiles of the original.
Now mix up some Milliput (or whatever you're using as a substitute) and apply roughly to the areas you want. It's best to overfill slightly because you can sand or file this back to the desired profile.
It may take a few attempts, but eventually you'll have a badge that's as smooth and new looking as you're happy with. Some people are pickier than others about this so do it to your own standard. Once you've got it nice and new shaped looking, get out the colour of the metal you want and give it a coat. I've been using Plastikote mirror gold paint which is marvellous stuff. The whole mirror paint Plastikote range gives a nice convincing finish as long as your preparation work is done to a good standard. You shouldn't need to use primer since these are small components, but if you want to make sure to use one that won't react with the top coat since it's nigh on impossible to remove paint from plastic.
Let this dry. Ideally you want to leave this overnight so that the paint is cured somewhat and it's best to give it a few coats to get a nice smooth finish. Many light coats are always better than one heavy coat and it's worth taking your time. If you spot some damage that you want to rectify, do so as before and then repaint.
Now you've got a nice finish on your badge you can just leave them metal coloured, but these particular badges look better with the black relief I think. Here's some I prepared earlier. This is where you need the masking tape, a craft knife and a steady hand.
To do the above, run the tape over the surface of the badge but only smooth it down against the highest spots, don't force it into the recesses. Then carefully use the sharp knife to cut out the shapes you want. It can help to smooth the masking tape quite firmly over the letters so you can see where to cut.
Once you're happy with your masking you can get the black spray paint out. I used Wilkinson's satin black enamel because it normally doesn't react with the Plastikote range and it's what I had to hand. It's pretty close to the original plastic finish as well. Go somewhere well ventilated and spray the badge as you did with the metal colour.
Once the paint is dry enough to handle the badge (an advantage to satin is you can see when it's dry as opposed to wet) you can carefully begin to remove the masking tape. I found this was easiest by gently prying the point of the blade under one corner of a letter and getting a point of tape up. Then I used my fingernails - a pair of tweasers will work too - to gently peel the tape off. Providing your metal colour has cured fully you shouldn't lift any of it with the tape.
Finally, with all the tape off, you should be left with something like this.
The only job then is to wait for the black paint to dry and cure overnight before giving the badges a clean to get any sticky residue from the tape off the metal colour. If you find you want to tidy the edges, Humbrol brush on black satin enamel is quite a good match for the Wilkinson's paint and can help tidy up any edges you might've missed.
If you find some black went on the metal, you can very gently remove this with the craft knife or some extremely fine sandpaper, but be careful not to cut all the way through the paint.
You shouldn't need to lacquer the end result and the badges should withstand normal cleaning, but if you're not sure then stick some lacquer on anyway
Hope this was informative
